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Archived 99 Cummins Won't Start

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Archived My friend's '99 is dead in CT

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Hi Guys, joined a short while ago, but this is my first post. Pulled my 99 (just bot it 2 monthes ago) in the shop at work last night to build a shroud (rock guard, I drive some gravel) around my recently (2 weeks ago) installed FASS. Went to start it up, and it won't fire. Turns over fine, but it doesn't even try to start. FASS seems to be running fine, kicks in like normal for a couple seconds before starting, after turning it over for about 10-15secs with no fire, FASS runs for about 10 secs, and I can here the fuel returning to the tank. Didn't remove or play with the FASS, just mounting the shroud around it. Is it possible a fuse or something went? Local mechanic who installed the FASS doesn't even want to look at it:{ , so I'm in a bit of a spot. He doesn't think it's the FASS though, and I (layman) tend to agree. Any ideas, thanks for any, and thanks for this great forum!



99 SLT Laramie CTD 5spd Short Box Quad Cab

Banks Power Elbow & 4" Monster Exhaust, AFE Stage II, DSS:), FASS 150/95, AFE Oil Filter w/ Royal Purple
 
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sounds like air in the fuel lines. crack the injector lines 1 and 3 at the valve cover and crank til fuel dribbles out .
 
Alberta, Canada. Cold outside (below freezing), but it's been in the heated shop since last night when it wouldn't start. I'm running winter diesel, with winter additive.
 
if nothing FASS was disturbed ???? I'd check supply hoses from FASS to VP see if got pinched by shroud? if pump is coming on doubt it's a fuse. Whenever I've changed injectors or disturbed the fuel lines and had no "normal" start situation, I jog key to start for a second and wait till LP stops running - 3 times, then hold go pedal down and crank over for not more than 30 seconds allowing 1-2 mins for started and wires to cool down. Of course after it starts remove foot from go pedal - it'll idle real rough and probably smoke a bit till all lines clear then bingo it smooths right out.
 
Tried your method Joe MC a few times, no go, how many should a guy try, and should I try a shot of ether? Shroud is off right now, not pinching any lines. FASS wasn't disturbed, just mounting a home made stainless box around it, using some of the FASS mount holes. Acts like the inj pump isn't getting or passing fuel. Is there anything electronic on the inj pump ie fuel shutoff solenoid? that might be acting up?
 
I am getting fuel at #1 and #3 injectors, had to pull the line pack a wee bit, then lots of fuel. Still no start. I checked all the fuses and relays, and they seem good. Tried turning it over while holding gas down many times, even tried a wee bit of ether, but quit that when I decided the grid heater might just want to burn it too. It got a little close to starting with the ether. At a complete loss now.
 
Can you get your hands on a code reader? It may not have anything to do with it. . but its something to check. It could be a number of things but with a code reader it would get you headed in the right direction.

Rick
 
A mechanic luckily happened to stop in at my place of work where the truck is. He tried the fuel lines, and didn't think there was anywhere near enough pressure, except at #4. He's coming back, maybe not untill Monday, with a code reader. But he's scared that it's the injector pump#@$%!. With the FASS I didn't think that would happen:mad: . Perhaps the inj pump was weak/damaged to begin with, and the FASS did it in? Right after FASS install the inj pump quietened down for about a week, but the last week or so it had got back to noisy, especially when cold. No power issues though, although I've not towed anything. I had really hoped to avoid the $1300 injector pump bill, hence the FASS.
 
Jason...

The FASS is a great addition to help keep the injector pump cool and lub'd but there are electronics on that pump... And there is no amount of fuel that is going to keep that stuff alive when it decided to give it up.

Pull the codes with a code reader and see if you find the P0216... it could be something else...



Rick
 
Fair enough. I don't mean to sound unhappy with the FASS, and like you say, it may not be the inj pump. Is it possible for the FASS to do in a weak inj pump? I could live with that scenario.



Recommendations for a code reader? I haven't bot a programmer/chip for it yet, is there one for a 99 that does both, or would I be better getting one of each?
 
Many do both ,I LOVE my SMARTY! I also had a FASS when my pump puked but the rotor siezed on the dyno @ 3500rpms. If you need a VP44 look at MWFI short money and works great. good luck!
 
A second on the SMARTY. Neat thing is all you have to do is find someone with one, as the TC function is not VIN locked.

If you do much of your own work you will need some kind of code reader and the factory service manual. Worth their weight in gold.

The comment that your mechanic friend made about 1 and 3 weak and plenty coming out of #4 smells of a VP44 with a stuck rotor. For your sake, I sure hope not. Get those codes.

If so, look at it this way, many of us that have had the VP44 fail have had it happen at inopportune times. I got stuck in the country and was lucky to 'land' next to an occupied residence and a phone. Didn't care that it took over three hours to get it home. OTH, you have had it fail? in a controlled situation, where it sounds like you can leave it inside and make repairs on the spot, in warmth, with no tow bill and further inconvenience. Count yourself lucky.

Let us know what you find.
 
You bet WrenchRat, many a time I said, "... at least it happened inside... " There could have been a handful of explitives also, but at least it wasn't on the side of the road!
 
I would not replace the VP44 until I knew what the fuel pressure was from the FASS. Also are your grid heaters working. If not, it wont start if its below 40 or so. Watch the ether, if it hits the grid heaters it could be bad.

Dennis
 
Got's lot's of pressure from the FASS at the inj pump. Don't have a guage, but when I loosened the fuel line at the inj pump, got lot's of diesel (I can also hear the fuel returning to the tank after cranking, it's pouring in good). It's in a heated shop, so even if the grid heaters weren't working, it should go. Pretty sure they are, it started fine outside before parking it inside. Good advice about the ether and the gid heater, that concerned me too.
 
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