2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 99 Fuel Guage

[DHeule]

99 Fuel Gage

Hay out there,

I am having a problem with my 99 3/4 ton 4X4 fuel gage. Seems when I fill it up the gage sticks on full. In the past it has begun to work normally after the tank dropped to 1/2 or so but this time it has stayed at full for two tank fulls. I wish that the gage really reflected the actual fuel as that would give me the best mileage around eh? Any way, does anyone out there have any advice or story's about similar problems with a fix? Hope so! Thanks

 

[DHeule]

Thanks Dan for the prompt reply!



I was/am not sure if it is a sending unit problem, float problem or what so I will continue working on this. Is there a way to check if it is the sending unit other than taking it our and replacing it?



Dane

 

[B.G. Smith]

Originally posted by DHeule

Thanks Dan for the prompt reply!



I was/am not sure if it is a sending unit problem, float problem or what so I will continue working on this. Is there a way to check if it is the sending unit other than taking it our and replacing it?



Dane

If you can lay you hands on a variable resistor with a range of 20 ohms to 220 ohms you can determine if it is the gauge or the sending unit. As stated above the sending unit is prone to failure. The resistor on the sending unit should read 20 ohms with the float at top (full) and 220 ohms at bottom (empty) There can be a variation of +- 6 ohms. To verify if the gage is operating disconnect the plug at the fuel module on top of tank, connect 20 ohm resistance across the terminals then turn the ign. switch on, the gage should read full. Turn ign. off and connect 220 ohms across the terminals, turn switch on, should read empty. If you have a variable resistor of the right values, you can just leave the ign. on and crank the resistor up or down and read the gauge. bg

 

[Idaho Native]

Stuck on Empty

Had the opposite problem on my '99. Let the fuel get pretty low before filling up. The gage stuck on E... got home and "tapped" the side of the tank with a rubber mallet. That was 3 yrs ago... no problems since (of course now I've gone and jinxed myself). Apparently a stuck float... happens on the Full side of the gage also.

 

[DHeule]

Thanks,



I will try both of the above. The mallet first eh?



Dane

 

[Idaho Native]

Yeah, the mallet worked just fine on mine. I did a search of the forums when it happened and that's where I got the idea. After looking at how the float mechanism is put together, I wonder why it works as well as it does.



What happened was that I ran it down to where the fuel warning chime sounded. When I refueled, the pickup was on a downhill slant away from the pump/filler neck. The float was as far down in the tank as it could physically reach. Mine stuck there. The thread also said that it can happen on the upper side of the mechanism. One of the members put together a do-it-yourself fix for the pivot point on the float assembly. Like I said, I've had no problems whatsoever since I rattled it loose about 3 yrs ago. I don't let it get that empty any more.



Loren

 

[damar]

I just went thru this after I replaced my float assembly. What happens is that the fuel module has a metal round portion that moves up and down on a plastic assemble depending on fuel level. There is a slot on the metal portion that slides up and down with brass screws as guides. The slot wears at two places and when sliding up and down it catches and jams. I used a small file to smooth out the knotches but know that the next failure means an entire unit instead of just the float assembly. Float assembly was just over #40. 00. I removed the front 4 of 6 bolts holding the bed on. Loosen the back two until they just hold. Place a jack between the drive shaft and muffler and raise the bed until you have about 6" between the bed and and the bracket where the front bolts screw in. Stick a couple of prices of wood as a safety on the brackets. Use a short price of wood and a hammer and loosen the large plastic nut holding the fuel module in the tank. Pull out and make the necessary repairs. Be sure when you replace the module that you align the arrow on the module between 2 marks on the tank at two o'clock when facing the tank from the drivers side. A mechanics mirror will be necessary the see the marks. If you don't align the module the flow may rub the side of the tank and give you wrong levels. I just redid mine Sunday and it took about two hours. I had replaced the float assembly about a month earlier and didn't fix the worn slide assembly. Good Luck. It's not as bad as it sounds.

 

[rblomquist]

Some folks experience sender "fouling" when using fuel additives. I've had it happen to me on numerous occasions after running 2-3 tanks of fuel with additive in it (different kinds too).



Before I get torched for this post I will say that most folks would rather be confident that they're being good to their VP44 by using additive and can handle the fouled sender as a tradeoff.



It was bugging the crap out of me to have my guage stuck on F all the time so now I alternate how many times I run additive.

 

[Ncostello]

There was an article in a recent TDR issue where an owner had this problem. After a fill up it would stick on full. When he figured it should be on 3/4 after some miles... he would apply the brakes hard enough to "wash" the float back into working order. Might try that just for kicks.