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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 99 Pulls to Left with the Brake Applied

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission I found it

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 7 inch stacks

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I have a stock 99 2500 LB Quad Cab. The truck has been pulling to the left when the brake is applied for the last 15K miles. The truck has 83K miles on it. The truck is turning into a democrat, while it's owner has other views. Help my truck change it's ways... . !



When you look at the left front brake pads, the left front will last about 15K miles, the right are in great shape. Clearly the left front caliper is dragging. Stopping on a dirt road, the left front locks up way before the others do and with light brake pressure. I have replaced the rotors, twice, due to thermally induced cracks and blue discoloration. I have replaced the wheel bearing, and the caliper with a rebuilt one and am now running with vented and slotted rotors from NAPA. These rotors have not warped yet and provide a much improved braking capacity but still the problem persists. I have greased the caliper pins with silicone grease, made sure the rear drums are adjusted correctly. Any Ideas? I am close to needing to replace the front pads again, but want to fix this problem for good.



Democrats are welcome to reply!
 
Heard about this on a VW one time:



There is something about the hose(s) whereas the inner layer flakes partially off and creates a one way valve. The VW guy who told me this a few years back said "well hhumpph,, everyone that knows VW knows that!"



Wonder if this could be the case here?
 
I just replaced the right rear seal and installed new shoes, new seal and new bearings. Cha Ching. I thought that I had it figured out at last. The new shoes, did not help.
 
PRattenbury said:
I actually agree with cojhl. It's probably your right front brake hose.



I would also check the right side. If not the hose take a good look at the right caliper.



I had a right front pull. I used a laser thermometer and had a high temperature reading on the right and a real low reading on the left. If the left had been normal it would have pointed back to the right side. I also bought a pressure gauge and hooked it up to each caliper. The readings were the same. I had all ready relaced the rubber lines with stainless ones. Changed the left caliper and it fixed the problem.



Hope this helps.



Ron
 
PRattenbury said:
Try stepping on the right side of the pedal. :p

Try stepping on the right side of the pedal.

In response to PRattenbury comment above...



Leaning to the right while braking doesn't work either but feels better.
 
For the front brake hose?



I paid around $40 for one from Napa a while back. I was checking out the truck when I bought it and something had worn almost all the way into the brake hose :eek: ... . perhaps an angry ex wife of a previous owner or something :-laf



BrookeSmith said:
I have thought of that as well, the dealer cost for a new hose is about $110. Ouch.
 
Is the right caliper working? I'd try replacing it. When I did mine I went with loaded remanufactured ones for $50 each lifetime replaceable - have replaced them twice - this set has hung in there for over two years now - so I think they are keepers. I've learned over the years that when it comes to brakes it's best to do both sides if you are having a problem. I had a similar problem with the brake hose as mentioned before on an old Celeberty my wife owned when we first go married. I replaced the rotors, calipers, pad and it was still sticking - then I learend about the check valve inside the hose syndrome - "snap" that's all it was.



How much were those vented and sloted rotors at NAPA? Are you 4X4 or RWD? If you can find the part numbers on them (if 4X4) I'd appreciate it. The guys at my NAPA are real pieces of work one drives a chevy the other a ford and I try everywhere else before I go in there because they bust my stones - not about my truck - they just act real dumb and like they're mad that I bothered them with my parts needs. Friggin dorks!



Good luck - hope something I've added helps. Don't forget to find those part numbers for me if you can. - thanks
 
And Keep those pins lubed!

The number one cause of dragging brakes is sticky pins.

Also check the rubber bushings around the pins.

They get heat hardend and will cause the sticky sticky even when well lubed.

As Jiffy says " Lube it or lose it".



SFB :)
 
Joe Mc said:
Is the right caliper working? I'd try replacing it. When I did mine I went with loaded remanufactured ones for $50 each lifetime replaceable - have replaced them twice - this set has hung in there for over two years now - so I think they are keepers. I've learned over the years that when it comes to brakes it's best to do both sides if you are having a problem. I had a similar problem with the brake hose as mentioned before on an old Celeberty my wife owned when we first go married. I replaced the rotors, calipers, pad and it was still sticking - then I learend about the check valve inside the hose syndrome - "snap" that's all it was.



How much were those vented and sloted rotors at NAPA? Are you 4X4 or RWD? If you can find the part numbers on them (if 4X4) I'd appreciate it. The guys at my NAPA are real pieces of work one drives a chevy the other a ford and I try everywhere else before I go in there because they bust my stones - not about my truck - they just act real dumb and like they're mad that I bothered them with my parts needs. Friggin dorks!



Good luck - hope something I've added helps. Don't forget to find those part numbers for me if you can. - thanks

Hi Joe,

The NAPA part numbers are PR86324R and PR86324L for the slotted/drilled rotors. I paid about $110 a each. They quoted a price of $151. 29 each. They have been great, with better pedal feel and have not warped! I'm sure I will go through pads faster, but for me, it was worth the extra braking performance.
 
on mine I replaced both the right front caliper (since it was dragging, although it didn't really cause a severe pull) and then my braking totally went to ****s. Replaced with another caliper, problem still persisted.

Changed out the master cylinder and the problem is fixed now :)



Point being: it can be multiple things (not) working together :-laf
 
I always replace calipers in pairs. If the left side is wearing much faster, maybe the right one isn't applying at all. I've replaced both calipers twice. Love those lifetime guarantees. :D Autozone gave me absolutely no grief either time. I've also replaced both hoses. Bought the best pads I could get... . and the problem eventually presents it self again. :confused: Each time I replace the calipers it works great for about a year and then it gradually starts pulling again. Try Autozones caliper leasing program. :-laf
 
kelly4463 said:
I would say brake hoses !

The wife had a full size chevy van same problem ;)

I will replace the hoses this weekend. If the hose swap doesn't work, I will swap the calipers to see if the pull changes sides. Thanks for all the feedback
 
PSI try lubing your caliper pins once a month.



Brooke

The calipers and rotors are handed. (You wont be able to swap left to right)

The there are ways to check which caliper is dragging.

Raise the tire off the ground and give it a spin.

It should spin freely.

If it doesn't go 1 or 2 revolutions you should check your caliper pins AND bushing's.

Check the pic's in my TDR gallery.



SFB
 
Just another rotten Chrysler design. For YEARS they've had lousy brakes and electrical. :(



Easier to go to Autozone once a year and get new ones... ... Same amount of work only less often that way. Besides, the calipers aren't sticking on the mounts. Seems to be a hydraulic thing.
 
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