2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 99 & UP SEIZED WHEEL HUBS

[mjs]

Be Aware If You Need A Ball Joint Or A U-joint You Will More Than Likely Will Need A Hub & Dust Shield . This Is Due To The Hub Seizing In The Steering Knuckle . They Are Frozen So Bad That It Will Require A Rose Bud Torch And A Huge Slapper Bar To Get It Off . bad Enough Ball Joints $100. 00 Ea. But The Hub At $287. 00 List & The Tin Plate For $42. 00 And Worst Yet Dealer Only! That No One Stocks Either . ain't That Nice. Mjs

 

[Alphacowboy]

you can get them out with out a torch, been there, done that... . you need a BFH and some patients. took me an hour to get it out. BUT, I goober the hell out of it with anti-sieze when I put it back in. so next time, it doesnt take so much right arm swinging

 

[jmeehan]

I'm getting ready to do ball joints on my truck soon. I have an idea I'll try if the hub assembly argues with me. I plan on putting a socket extension between the bolt head and steering stop, and using the power steering to gently break the hub loose.

I'll let everyone here know if it works or gets expensive instead

 

[mjs]

I Had Got These Out Before By Screwing The Bolts Mostly In Putting A Socket On The Bolts And Beating From Behind Hitting The Socket To Save The Bolt Head. It,s Much Cheaper To Waste A Socket Since The Bolts Are $6. 50 Each . But On This Job There Was Not A Chance. I Tried A Chisel To At The Ears But This Will Only Damage The $900. 00 Steering Knucle. Mjs

 

[cop0110]

hub puller

I did mine I used a buddy's hub puller. . with a air impact it was not that bad. I think he got the puller from. . snap on or mac. .

 

[Alphacowboy]

I'm getting ready to do ball joints on my truck soon. I have an idea I'll try if the hub assembly argues with me. I plan on putting a socket extension between the bolt head and steering stop, and using the power steering to gently break the hub loose.

I'll let everyone here know if it works or gets expensive instead

Been told that works, I might try that the next time...

 

[jkalchik]

I'm getting ready to do ball joints on my truck soon. I have an idea I'll try if the hub assembly argues with me. I plan on putting a socket extension between the bolt head and steering stop, and using the power steering to gently break the hub loose.

I'll let everyone here know if it works or gets expensive instead

Recent model Jeeps use the same style of unit bearing hub. I've been told that this trick works pretty darned good, although personally, I've never tried it.



One thing I did do is to buy a new set of bolts and use the old bolts as sacrificials. Mushrooming the heads on the sacrificials when they're not even finger tight isn't a problem.

 

[DLausche]

... The Tin Plate For $42. 00 And Worst Yet Dealer Only! That No One Stocks Either . ain't That Nice. Mjs

What is the tin plate you speak of here? Is this the plate that the grease seal on the inner bearing rides up against? I just finished replacing my right front hub on Monday. Used a porta-power and 2 hours with a BFH to get the hub out (in multiple pieces). The seal flange for the hub bearing grease seal was REALLY rusted and pitted badly. I took the axle shaft out and ground/filed/sanded the surface as smooth as possible. Is this the Tin Plate that you are talkin about? If so I should have replaced mine. Is the grease seal by itself replacable w/o buying the whole hub assembly?

 

[mjs]

the tin plate i'm talking about is the brake dust sheild that gets sandwiched between the hub and steering knucle

 

[daveshoe]

On the newer trucks [with seperate brake rotor] you buy 14mm x 80 mm fine thread grade 8 bolts,make a pulling plate that slips over the wheel splined driveshaft. It pulls it off while keeping everything all lined up. The neatest thing about it is. you run these bolts in from the OUTSIDE of the hub.

The proceedure is first pull off the outer half of the hub. Remove the brake rotor. Place my pulling plate made from 1/2 inch steel over the spline ,tighten the grade 8 bolts evenly,and it will sound like a gunshot when it breaks loose.

No heat,no beat and it works without crawling underneath The only reason you have to buy bolts is that the factory bolts are not long enough to pull it from the front. I did use a 15 dollar harbor freight hub puller to split the outer hub away so i could pull the inner beast away with my pulling plate.

If anyone wants to break a hub loose,we could do it on a weekend afternoon and put it back together with never seize if you want to do your ball joints later. If you want to make your own plate ,it looks like a ''five'' on a pair of dice. the center hole is 1-1/4'' and the outside holes are 3-7/8'' center -to center.

 

[DLausche]

the tin plate i'm talking about is the brake dust sheild that gets sandwiched between the hub and steering knucle

Thanks mjs. Now I understand. My brake dust shield was partially ground away fron being rusted/warped and contacting the rotor for a while. I banged it straight again and reused it.



Anyone have the problem with the sealing flange on the axle stub yoke being rusted where the hub grease seal is supposed to seal against? I dunno if this stamped steel ring is replaceable or not.

 

[mechanic]

Be Aware If You Need A Ball Joint Or A U-joint You Will More Than Likely Will Need A Hub & Dust Shield . This Is Due To The Hub Seizing In The Steering Knuckle . They Are Frozen So Bad That It Will Require A Rose Bud Torch And A Huge Slapper Bar To Get It Off . bad Enough Ball Joints $100. 00 Ea. But The Hub At $287. 00 List & The Tin Plate For $42. 00 And Worst Yet Dealer Only! That No One Stocks Either . ain't That Nice. Mjs

That is not so expensive when you compare it to one that came to my shop the other day. An 01 Chevy Blazer 2WD with a L/F wheel brg. bad. My cost was close to $400. I am almost shock proof when it comes to parts prices, but that one was a shock. And this was a friend who is putting 5 kids through church school and college, so his funds are a little challanged. But it was easy to change.

 

[Fueler]

or... . you could throw that POS front end away and put a real D60 under it. i doubt you would have to replace anything other than $25 wheel bearings for the life of your truck. servicing a solid front drive axle should not be this much of a pain in the ***.

 

[jmeehan]

or... . you could throw that POS front end away and put a real D60 under it. i doubt you would have to replace anything other than $25 wheel bearings for the life of your truck. servicing a solid front drive axle should not be this much of a pain in the ***.

The thought has crossed my mind. If I could spare the cash outlay right now I'd try to get a group purchase together and approach Dyna Trac, or some other axle builder. I figure a new set of ball joints should be good for another 4 years or so while I explore the options.

 

[Fueler]

The thought has crossed my mind. If I could spare the cash outlay right now I'd try to get a group purchase together and approach Dyna Trac, or some other axle builder. I figure a new set of ball joints should be good for another 4 years or so while I explore the options.

be aware that dynatrac is WAY over priced. you can have a great condition D60 for around 900-1000 buck. if you cant do it yourself... . pay a local gearhead/fab shop to have the housing accept the factory control arms or just ditch the coils and run leaf springs.



im sure a complete dodge front end is worth something to somebody so you could recover some of the cost there.