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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission A/C Clutch or Compressor

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Hi, all of a sudden the AC stopped blowing cold, checked fuses and relays and all is well. I started the engine and turned the AC on and watched the clutch, it engages for a second and then disengages, and after 5 seconds it reengages again and then disengages after a second, and so on and so on. Right after it disengages I can see the clutch move a little bit, this happens during each time after it disengages.

The AC was blowing real cold right up until it stopped so I have to somewhat rule out a small leak and possibly focus more on the clutch but am not sure what the above symptoms indicate and would like to see if anyone can fill me in on what is going on.

thanks

Sean
 
The symtoms you describe indicate low refrigerant charge. The fact that the clutch engages at all indicates that there is still some refrigerant in the system. You could add some refrigerant and see if it stays a while if not then it's "find the leak time". Evaporator is suspect but could be othere places too. bg
 
Have to agree with B. G. on this one. If it's not leaking then it would work like it did before. It's time to look for the leak. You may have to jumper the low pressure switch,

cause the compressor needs to be running to charge the system. If your worried about the compressor or clutch, then invest in a can or two of 134a and see if they work when charged. But the charge will most likely leak out again cause it's still leaking.
 
Yeah, I ran out and bought a can of 134a and it is blowing cold now..... So, guess the next thing to do is hunt down the leak, have no clue how to do that though. maybe I will add another can and see how long it lasts and hopefully by then someone can help me on how to trace a leak.
thanks
guys
EDIT: I know somwe of you may be thinking "why does is this guy worried about his AC in November???" Well it's about 75 here right now... ... .
 
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As mentioned you can jump out the low pressure switch and run a/c for a little bit to rule out the clutch as the problem. Tell-tale hint of a leak will be oil around pipe connections, places where the pipe connects to condenser and at compressor, another place to look is at the shaft leaving the compressor to the clutch. If it's in the evap plan around 8 hours to R & R since the dash has to be removed to access. If this is the route that must be taken you may as well R & R the heater core while you're there. Hope the leak can be found easily and that its not the evap. You could have incurred a puncture in the condenser coil as it sticks out front and is more vulnerable to things getting past the grill.

Good luck to ya.
 
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