2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission a/c condensor change?

[pbell]

a/c evaporator change?

I read some old post about changing out the condensor and would like to know what needs to come apart. I know the top half of the dash but what about the bottom or the steering column? I have seen some pics in archives with the entire inside of the truck taken apart and it looks like a PITA of a job. I dont have a service manual but I need one so if anyone knows where to get or the type to buy please let me know. I have seen some at the local autoparts but I am not sure this procedure would be covered. (You open it you buy it) How hard is it to take out the dash and should I get my system evacuated completly before cracking the system open? These are just some of the question I have. Please Help!

 

[CEdwards]

Did you see the thread right below on this page, a/c not working? I think I have the same problem as them but I'm not going to pay the dealer over a thousand dollars to fix it. Keep us posted on how it goes if you do it yourself.

 

[Ramingit]

I did it by myself two weeks ago and it was 10 hours from start to finish with a manual. It was a real PITA but worth it. a garage wants between $750 to $1200. I now have good air again.

 

[tractorface]

I just did the job last weekend. You do not need to remove the entire dash. In fact you can leave almost everything in tact except the glove box. Not really too bad a job if you are expecting the worst. Be patient and the job is not bad.



I would replace the accumulator while your at it. The accumulator has a dessicant (sp?) in it. Water in the system reacts with the refrigerant and produces Sulphuric acid which eats away at the evaporator and the rest of the system. A new accumulator will ensure a nice dry system that should last for a while. Also don't let them charge it without adding refrigerant oil to the system. The oil is needed to lube t :-laf he compressor. See the oil likely followed the refrigerant out the hole in the system and needs to be replaced. Simply charging a system with a can of refrigerant from the autoparts store is not really a good idea. A system setup properly really works much better than something hashed together.



For the first time in years my compressor stays on and does not cycle on and off over and over again. My duct temperatures are 38 degrees when moving and rise to about 45 degrees at a stop light. Nice and frosty in the cab now

 

[pbell]

Well I cant seem to find a manual anywhere. I guess I will start ripping stuff off and see what happens. The dash is already cracked pretty bad so I am not too concerned with the way it comes off. I will have to order another one anyway ($350). I will keep ya'll posted and ask some more questions later. If anyone has a manual for sell or can fax/email pages with info on this procedure I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance! pbell!



-- email address removed -- fax:512-258-5571

 

[nps]

The condenser is easy - right in front of the radiation.



The evaporator is under the dash. Here is the thread that describes how to pull it with the least amount of aggravation.

 

[scotmartin]

Be careful not to get burned by the radiation

 

[tractorface]

If you really are changing the Evaporator you will need special tools to disconnect the Refrigerant lines before you can remove the Evaporator. Make sure you have them first or get someone to disconnect them before you start. I don't have my manual with me but I can fax you pages tomorrow if you like. Let me know



NPS is right, if you really are doing the condenser all you need are the special tools and a few minutes :-laf

 

[nps]

Be careful not to get burned by the radiation

Darned spell checker - better off without it.



But actually, doesn't the radiator radiate? And what does it radiate? hummmm :-laf

 

[pbell]

I ment to type relplacing the evaporator. I pulled out the dash along with the skin off my hands. It was a real nightmare until I found the two bolts behind the kick panels that allow the dash to rotate forward. I was trying to figure out how in the h*** they got all those screws underneath in the front of the dash. I thought I was going to have to pull the windshield. The dash is now in three peices because it was very brittle and just fell apart. To get this far took me about 2 hours. (I cant figure out how to upload an image so will mess with it later. )



Tractorface, what kind of special tools are needed to pull the evaporator? If you wouldn't mind faxing some sheets I would really appreciate it!



What will happen if I pull the steering wheel out all the way and how hard will it be to get back in?



Keep the replies comming as it keeps my spirits up. I am going back in for round two!

 

[TXDSLSHOP]

I replaced my evap. today and it took just over 5 hours and it was the first one I've done on a 2nd gen. dodge. Piece of cake, I could do one every day. I am going to update my post referenced above and maybe include lessons learned. Have fun. Jeremy.

 

[pbell]

Couple more questions! Do I need to drain the antifreeze? I assume the heater core comes completely undone or does it not? Dont want that stuff inside in the carpet. How do I drain the remaining freon from the system? I was told to do it at the high side fitting and do it real slow. I backed it off and nothing came out. Maybe I didnt back it off far enough! I was a little scared and didnt want the thing to shoot off and loose some components.



Killer, did you buy aftermarket or OEM parts and where did you get them?

 

[TXDSLSHOP]

I don't want to steer you wrong, but I just cut the heater hoses and let whatever coolant spilled out go and didn't worry about it. So, No you don't HAVE to drain your radiator. The heater core is arranged with the lines on the top, so you would have to try pretty hard to spill alot of coolant on your carpet. If your worried, put a couple plugs in just in case. The Heater core is mounted in the box and can be removed only once the box is out of the truck. I bought all my parts from Napa. Everything total was around $200. 00 and I borrowed their fuel and a/c fitting tools from their loaner tools. As far as bleeding the system down, I just put my gauges on and loosened the hose fitting and let it bleed off (Into an EPA approved freon recovery system of course! ) Anyhow, everything went smooth and I vacuumed it down and charged it with 2 lbs. 134A and called it a day.

 

[pbell]

orifice tube replacement

I finished my evaporator core/accumulator replacement and was wondering about the orifice tube. Where is the thing at? Did I need to add any oil to the new components or will that be done when it is recharged?

 

[tractorface]

The orrifice tube is in the lline running to the condeser. You have to replace the entire thing if you want to replace the orrifice tube (as far as I know). The person that did my re-charge has been doing this for a long time. He added oil to the evaporator before installing the new accumulator and added oil in while the refrigerant was being added.

 

[nps]

You can add oil to the system when recharging it. It will get picked up and circulated - most of it stays in the compressor anyway.

 

[TXDSLSHOP]

So, how long did it take you? Did you think it was as bad as everyone makes it out to be? I put the oil in the drier and evap. prior to install. Since they are in just add oil when you charge the system. I added 4 oz's total. Good luck. Jeremy.

 

[pbell]

I finished my evaporator replacement. Here is the story!



I believe the total time in just the evap. replace was about 10 hours. I did other stuff as well and I started this not knowing how to get the dash off until after I started taking sh** off. (couple of hours wasted figuring that out). I have never done a/c work before but for $1200 I was gonna learn. I was going to have to buy a new dash so I ripped the old one out, before I knew about those screws in the back, from underneath. . the heater core/evap. core came out fairly easily with the pass. side dash suspended. I think the worst part was installing the new dash. Nothing seem to align. :-{} the freaking defrost vent screw holes and then the holes on those metal brackets. I finally got it together and while installing the final screws around the windshield something (plastic) breaks. :--) I hear something fall so I unscrew the top dash an let it rotate, again forward and the little plastic piece looks the same as the rest so to h*** with it. BTW if anyone replaces their dash, run a screw through the new holes before putting it in. They are a B!^@H to get the screws in while inside the cab.



With every thing back together I start the truck and now the check engine light stays on and the speedo is stuck at 120 mph. (where is the camera when you need one :-laf ) I ignore it and just drive to the shop that told me the evap needed replacing. They wont evacuate/recharge the system so I go to mom/pop shop and he did it. A/C now blows at 35F at center vents. While I had air box off, I removed silencer ring.

Total Cost:

New dash $300

Evap. core $120

Drier $60

A/C charge $200 (the retaining spring fell out of drier line before I installed it and didn't know about it until /a/c man told me. At this point I just let him fix)

Hearing that new turbo sound without silencer ring=PRICELESS



Thanks everyone for their input on how to do this. It was a PITA but well worth it.

When I figure out how I will post some pictures!