Here I am

A/C just quit.

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stumble at 2600rpm

Auto transmission Shift Problems

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Well, we are out of here, going back to Phoenix and will sit and await Earnhardt's search for an entire 3rd member (new rear end, complete assy. ) for the our TD. Not a lot of 4:10 LSD's out there so I am told. Could be a 2 week wait. :mad:



Driving around Vegas yesterday, A/C stopped blowing cold air. Blower is operational, but I do not here the A/C clutch "click" on or off when switching it on or off.

Checked under hood electrical connections but they are all tight.



Anyone got any suggestions as to what to look for or check?



Thanks.



DC Miller

Marbleman
 
A/C on my '98 valve-challenged 2500 simply quit after I had some work done on it. A/C shop checked everything and determined that the PCM was no longer telling the compressor clutch to engage.



As I wasn't terribly worried about it, I told him to go ahead and bypass the PCM 'circuit'. Now, when I select an A/C position, the control directly tells the clutch relay to engage. A/C's been working just fine ever since.



Fest3er
 
On my '00 a pressure sensor crapped out in July '00 - took the dealer about an hour to find/fix the problem and it's worked fine since. I can dig up the paperwork with the P/N / description if you'd like.



Brian
 
A/C leaking

Hello, i read your problem and it reminded of a problem i found on my rig. My truck is 2 years old now and last year i was doing a oil change, fuel filter, etc. And i notice a problem the liquid line from the evaporator runs along the bottom side of our stock air boxes. Well it rubs the air box and i notice it had already dented the line on mind. I pulled the line away and insulated a small lenght so it wouldnt rub the box. It will rub a hole in time and then it would time to purchase and recharge the system. Just a heads up you fellows might want to look and check yours before it becomes a problem. :eek:
 
I had the same trouble and it was the connector to the clutch underneath the compressor had worked partway loose.
 
Thanks all,

Is there a way to test for the amount of R-134 in my system, short of taking it to an A/C shop?

What about if I jumper across the low pressure switch plug to see if the clutch engages, any chance of messing something else up?

I know a little bit about the system but not an expert by any means.



DC Miller

Marbleman
 
If you can "hotwire" the compressor, there is a sight glass in one of the A/C lines in the engine area (I think it's on the driver's side) that you can observe while the system is running. There should not be any bubbles visable in the window.

Bubbles= low charge.

However the REAL test would be to hook up a set of A/C gauges and verify.



Note: R-12 and R-134 gauges are different.



HTH
 
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