A/C Leak

[ryecreek]

well ive had a small one for two years now so i did the yearly job of adding 12-16 oz(a guess) worked perfect. 2 afternoons later nada compressor dont engage????? put gauges on 2 days after that(i work long days) and 0psi??????? either the schrader leaked it after being used or i have a real leak at this point. i'm off now so tommorrow i'll put the nitrogen to it just wondering if there i a common leak in these systems

 

[LRutigliano]

On our trucks, the condenser joints and the compressor joints are pretty robust.



The joints at the frontwall, accumulator and the one behind the air cleaner in the fender well are accurately nick-named "spring leak" joints instead of their technical name "spring lock". These are known to have leak issues as well as the front shaft seal of the compressor.



The schrader ports are pretty robust too, but they could leak, especially if you don't put the plastic cap back on.



If you added refrigerant over the years to your system and you didn't add in some PAG oil as well (say 1-2 oz for every 12 oz can of R-134a), you may have toasted your compressor shaft seal.



Hope this helps,

Louis

 

[TFucili]

Mine had a leak in the evaporator core. Seems to be holding OK since that was replaced under warranty. Leaks aside, these A/C systems are of marginal capacity IMHO. My old Fords, even with R-134, would cool MUCH better than this thing. The R-12 units would frost the windows.

 

[ryecreek]

On our trucks, the condenser joints and the compressor joints are pretty robust.



The joints at the frontwall, accumulator and the one behind the air cleaner in the fender well are accurately nick-named "spring leak" joints instead of their technical name "spring lock". These are known to have leak issues as well as the front shaft seal of the compressor.



The schrader ports are pretty robust too, but they could leak, especially if you don't put the plastic cap back on.



If you added refrigerant over the years to your system and you didn't add in some PAG oil as well (say 1-2 oz for every 12 oz can of R-134a), you may have toasted your compressor shaft seal.



Hope this helps,

Louis

thanks i did an out charge from one of those little cans (from parts store) last year hope thats enough i've never found a oily leak site so assumed no oil leaked can you over oil or should i add oil every time?

heard of the comp seal on 2nd gen and had a schrader expolde on a 2nd gen too

 

[ryecreek]

put 225 psi of nitrogen to it (stabilized 134 @approx. 140 deg) it leaks but no luck with the bubbles may be the evap but i d assume rare after 5yrs

how do i check the front seal

leaks down@5#/hr

 

[ryecreek]

well i broke down and bought a uv kit got it in and have not found a leak after 1 hr gonna give it a day or so and let it run as much as possible to circulate dye when i pulled a vac it's got a good leak 15hg in 10 min.

is it possible to see a leak @front seal of comp? and like i asked can you add to much oil i added 8oz today??

 

[Mr.Goat]

Ryecreek



Take a close feel/look at the back side of the dryer. (left fire wall on an 03) They can look good from the front but the back side near the bottom tends to rust out. Feel around, if the paint is bubbled up it's rust and this possibly is your leak.

It was in mine as I just had it replaced. !



The AC in my 03 has had issues every year except one since new. A different issue every time. All issues except the first have been on my nickel.



These A/C systems are of very poor quality. And as mentioned above of minimal size for the application as they don't cool that well when working at optimum.



Toyota could teach DC alot, and how to make an A/C system for a truck would be one of them.