2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission A/C not so cold?

[Black Cloud]

Turned my AC on for the first time today since last year and it isn't blowing out cool air like it was. Should I try to put refridgerant in it and since I have never had to do this, are there any tips or tricks?

 

[Chris N5CWM]

Yes. I was quoted rediculous prices just to recharge my system.

It would not blow cold air at all.



Go to Wal Mart or Pep Boys, or other major auto parts store.

(I got mine at Wal Mart).

There are charge testers that are very easy to use and read.

Just connect it to the low side port, and read the pressure. Usually it'll have LOW/NORMAL/HIGH zones on the gauge. Can't get any easier than that.

Buy a can or two of refridgerant.



Also buy an inexpensive recharge kit. It's a simple set of hoses and connectors and a valve. Read the instructions carefully.

Basically, start the engine, run the AC on max for about 3 minutes.



Once you put in one can, check with the gauge. Add as necessary. Don't overfill! If you get to the 2nd can, shut off the valve 1/2 way thru and check with the gauge.



Interdynamics is the brand I bought.

 

[Black Cloud]

Thanks Chris, Sounds easy enough.

 

[BarryG]

Mine did the same thing. I think mine only took a bit less than a full can and it sure made a difference in temp. The kit I bought came with a cheap gauge and when I started it was really only on the low side of normal so I took it up to the high side of normal and wow what a difference in temp.

 

[scotmartin]

I had the exact same "bad" cooling problem. Turned out, I had a bad fan clutch. Simply adding refrigerant could damage the system, if you are now low on charge.



Scot Martin

HVAC Instructor (I don't tell many people that)

 

[The patriot]

Mine isnt too good at a stoplight. Not enough air going across the condenser.

Some quys add a electric fan to help this.

BTW mine has NEVER been as good as my last new car with R-12 in it.

R-134 just dont seem to work as well as the old R-12 did, IMO.

Eric

 

[Joe Mc]

As an old HVAC Tech I have to say to you all, "use caution when working with refrigerant systems", just adding some "because" may possibly be the worst thing to do. It's a common misconception that the system needs a periodic "tune up" and requires the addition of refrigerant to keep it working & happy. Or, my A/C isn't blowing as cold as it was last year, it must need some refrigerant. "A tight/properly charged system is a happy system". I know this sounds corny but, it's true.



If you have to "add refrigerant" it's for a reason - there's a leak somewhere. It's best to locate the leak and repair it, then have the system properly evacuated and recharged. The best method I've found to "properly" recharge the system is adding the "Factory" charge of XXX amount pounds & ounces. After a repair, in which the system has been "opened up" and subjected to the atmosphere & moisture contained within, requires the system to be evacuated of air/moisture. Of course there's special tools/equipment that most of us don't have that have to be used. This "method" of charging ensures that what engineers have calculated as the "ideal" charge amount is returned to the system.



I purchased my truck in mid 01 w/75k miles, it now has 124k, I've never had to "add" refrigerant. I consider myself lucky that my system is "tight and happy" especially since I know the truck was in a front end wreck and repaired prior to ever my seeing it. I guess someone did the correct repairs so I wouldn't have to.



My $0. 02

 

[SSabick]

I had this same problem last year, and took the truck back to the daelor to have them check it out. They added a coolent that had a die to it, and said that if there was any leaking problems, that a black light would find it. I have not had any issues with the AC since then.

 

[Black Cloud]

Yea I think thats what I am going to have to do in the near future. I went to Wal Mart and purchased a can of coolant only to have the connector not fit snuggly on the valve. Wasted 12 bucks no less. I guess take to the dealer and pay the premium. Thanks for your input gang!

 

[Chris N5CWM]

Originally posted by turbodiesel_ram

Yea I think thats what I am going to have to do in the near future. I went to Wal Mart and purchased a can of coolant only to have the connector not fit snuggly on the valve. Wasted 12 bucks no less. I guess take to the dealer and pay the premium. Thanks for your input gang!

Are you sure you tried the right fitting? The low pressure valve is near the turbo, behind the airbox in that area. The high pressure fititng is towards the front.



You should be using the low pressure fitting!

 

[WMonroe]

Is the low pressure valve on the line that gets hot or cold when the ac is running? The line that is down by the turbo gets hot when the ac is on, and the line up by the fender gets cold when the ac is on. For some reason I thought the low pressure fitting was on the line that was cold when the ac is running?

Will

 

[PhillySingle]

Good question WMonroe... .



Is the low pressure valve the one near the passenger side battery?? (line gets cold... )



If the low pressure valve is in fact back near the turbo, behind the airbox... can someone snap a quick picture or tell us Diesel newbs exactly where to find it? All I can find is the one near the passenger side battery in the front.



Thanks!

Jay

 

[PhillySingle]

Or is it back by the firewall... I think it's called the accumulator (sp?) and there's an A/C pressure switch in there that may need some "shaking" according to some old posts.



Is the low pressure line there too - to check w/the gauge or up near the battery?

 

[I-6DZL]

The low side a/c fitting is near the accumulator, by the turbo.

The low side a/c fitting always has a blue cap on it, and is smaller than the high side a/c fitting.

The high side fitting will have a red cap on it and is located right near the pass. side battery.



As others have stated be sure to know what you're doing when servicing your a/c unit, the refrigerant gets VERY cold if you don't get the hose on right. If that cold refrigerant comes in contact with your skin, it's not good.



On almost all of the dodges i've services before 90% of the time it's the evaporator core in the dash that gets a little pin hole in it (or bigger over time).

This is one time i wouldn't recommend a cheap fix, unless you're somewhat knowlegeable about how the a/c system works



Hope this helps



Curtis

 

[Andy Redmond]

Scot, Joe Mc and I-6dzl have all given excellent advice. Overcharge it and you'll pay the repair shop more later. Keep preachin the choir fellas, I hope the congregation is listening as the correct answers were given!!



Andy

 

[PhillySingle]

Curtis -



Thanks for the explanation... you make alot of good points, I'm not in the mood to get any frost bite!



Basically, the guy I bought the truck from (TDR member) had the heater core replaced late last fall and never tried the A/C afterwards... I'm *hoping* my fix is as simply as replacing all the A/C coolent... perhaps the tech never replenished it after evacuating the system for the heater core install.



I'll be ticked if I just bought a truck and have to shell out $1000 'cause my stupid self forget to check the A/C on the test ride!!



Many thanks,

Jay

 

[FDziurda]

A/C

Just had mine checked last week for the same reason. My compressor was cycling about every 10 seconds and the cooled air w/ fan on high was only 60 degrees. Had a friend who is an A/C tech check mine. He added about 1/2 can of R-134 refrigerant and cooled air dropped to 38-40 degrees.



As everyone else has said, be careful not to overfill. Check for leaks to find the reason it is low. Monitor pressures when adding refrigerant.



Hope you solution was as simple as mine. Whole process took less than 10 minutes.



Frank Dz