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a/c panel controls, hows that again?

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OK, it's getting hotter now, need to fix that dreaded a/c control.
I remember someone talking about this awhile back, but I searched and
couldn't find it. I think I searched right.

My panel vents won't blow, it blows out the defrost when set on panel.
There was mention of a control or hose off or something like that.
I didn't have this problem then,[I should have paid more attention].
Anyone know how to take the dash apart?
My son and I messed with his ranger for about
2 hours trying to exchange
the radio. Couldn't do it. Took it to a car radio place, BAM!!
done in five minutes. I mean 5 minutes from the counter and back.
5 MINUTES !! It made me sick, didn't even have time to LOOK for
a magazine. 5 MINUTES

I was hoping not to look the fool in front of my son again.
But how the heck do I get this RAM dash apart? PLEASE don't say
take it to the shop, my wife has already used that.

If anyone could help this knothead I'd appreciate it. thanks

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97 3500 SLT REDext cab duelly p/u 5sp 3:54 2wd 245/75R16
3" straight exhaust stock torque plate slid full foward star wheel tweeked
105,000 miles still with plenty of ZOOM... ZOOM... ZOOM

RON Z
 
Can't help you much but will give a couple of suggestions. Make sure your vacuum system is working before you go any further. The vac. line to the AC goes across the firewall above the rear of the engine. If it is making vac. look under the dash in the center and on the passenger side, you can see some of the connections, something may be unplugged. The inst. cluster bezel just snaps off, a plastic putty knife or something that won't scratch the trim should be used. Caution, before removing any thing from the inst. area it is recommended by the Mfg. to disconnect the batteries to prevent possibility of air bag deployment. good luck. bg

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White 99 3500, QC, 3:55, auto. most options except leather, Line-X bed liner, fiberglass running boards Rancho 9000s, bug shield and window vents, black vented 5th wheel tailgate, 110 gal. aux. fuel tank.
 
zzman, it's times like this one when the dealer service manual is indispensable, it would be worth it even if it cost twice as much. My friend spent 5 hours trying to take apart the dash on his GM to change the fueling chip, bought the service manual and it took 5 minutes.
Get yourself a manual.
 
zzman,
Your selection switch is vacuum operated.
As B. G. Smith suggested check out vacuum lines.
Your switch controls a couple of acuators that change position of doors inside of heater/cooling housing.

Seems to be vacuum; loosing it or pinched line.
 
I had the same thing happen on my 96. My problem turned out to be a bad actuator for the panel/defrost door. You can see the actuators under the dash, they're above the diesel pedal. I verified the selector switch was working by hooking a vacuum guage to the line going to the actuator. I then applied vacuum to the actuator and it would not hold vacuum, so I knew the actuator was at fault.

Bob
 
I dont know how to fix your problem, but getting that dash off is easy. Just brab a corner and pull, *** on as one corner pops out, just work your way around, there are NO screws holding the dash in place, just spring clips. I have taken mine out a few times to put the radio in and numerous accesories. Should be no problem
 
thanks guys for not telling me to take it to the shop.
illflem, good idea, I've always thrown the instruction away in
the past. I think I'll keep these.

What do I ask for on this manaual?
Is there a certain one to get? brand?
I got some goofy book while back, called Haynes Repair Manual, don't cover much I
thought. Just found the part about taking the dash apart,cool.

I guess books are made to read. :embarrassment
OK guys, let me check out these words in this here book some more.
Carry on fellas, this knothead done it again.
thanks for the help.
 
Unless the 97 is a lot different than a 96, DO NOT grab and pull the dash bezel. There are 2 screws holding the cup holder and 2 screws holding the ash tray in, then just hook finger tips in the top crack of bezel and pull and it will pop off. There is a recall on the vacum system #720 I believe that will cover your problem more than likely. My 96 did exactly the same thing and the recall fixed it free. Oil gets into the vacum pump from the power steering pump and trashes all vacum components, its a 7 year unlimited miles warranty thing. Hope the 97 and 96 are the same and you luck out.
John

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96 SLT Laramie CC 5spd, 3. 54, no muff, no cat, 5"turn down tip. (its for sale)
. Member NRA/USPSA
 
zzman, finding oil in the line is a bad sign, they should be clean, some years had a recall for it, mine did. The oil will melt the vacuum lines and allow them to collapse. If you have the vacuum assist brakes it can cause the assist to fail, hence the recall. The recall added a check valve to the system, replaced all the vacuum hoses and gave a 7 year warranty on the hoses.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(work truck)
95 3500,5 speed 3:54,BD E-brake,Driftwood,Banks&Psycotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(works harder truck)
 
O man, you mean the oil is a bad thing huh?
So I need to contact the dealer to check on a re-call?
Wow, the dealer here in Terrell is a big ol arm pitt.

You know, I saw some oil behind the control knob too. [in the dash]

Maybe this has something to do with the crazy cruise control too.

Man fellas, I appreciate this. I'm going to check with dealer
tomorrow. Thanks alot. Ron Z
 
zzman,
The oil in actuator and switch is usually cause by a bad vacuum check valve. On some 96's maybe 95/97's Cummins forgot to install the check valves.
Dodge recalled these truck/engines to install check valve. I don't think 97 was included. The check valves are know to go bad.


The best manual is the Dodge Shop Manual, yes it is costly but a wealth of information the others leave out. Price around $100. I don't leave home without it.
 
OK OK, the book works.
found that the actuator had a leak.
it won't hold suction, also it had alot
of oil in it. I guess that was to keep
the diapham from drying out.

Thanks guys, some day I'll learn to listen
AND pay attention.

knothead Ron
 
My 96 had this same thing happen and just after it happened I got a recall on it and it was fixed for free. Something in the vacuum system DC had to order the part took about a week. But then the vacuum system was good for 100,000 miles after the recall.
I rember it was back around I got the recall on the brakes check valve / vacuum boster thing. Hope you get it fixed for free.

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2001. 5 Black Sport 4x4 Q-cab 6-Speed HO,3. 54 - No Stickers on Tailgate - Towing & Camper Packages - Real Backup Lights - Fog Lights - Phord 4 Door Nurf Bars - Leveling Kit - CB - Electric Brakes - Class 3 Hitch on front - Cat & Muffler fell off

[This message has been edited by Oasis-3 (edited 04-08-2001). ]
 
Well, no re-call for the BIG RED.

I guess I'll be fixing all this stuff myself.
Anyone know if I need to replace all the actuators and
control knob and booster brake chamber and what ever else
there is?
Hell I'm goin sell this dude. I don't need the nickel dime deal.
I can't beleive this crap. Why wouldn't Dodge include this one?
Man, I don't need this.
 
Unless hoses or other components appear melted from the oil I would just add the check valves that the warranty would covered and try to blow as much oil out of the lines as possible with compressed air or even a shop vac if you don't have a compressor.
 
Well illflem I think it is worse than that.
The control valve in the dash is melted on the bottom. There is melted goo on the back side.

I have a neighbor that is a auto machanic,
maybe he knows how to fix all this stuff.
I'm really worried about the brake booster.
This may be why sometimes the brakes don't seem to work
very well.

I really haven't worked on vehicles that much
since my 65 mustang ran off.
These new vehicles with all those hoses and
BS is for the birds.
Wal-mart changes the oil in my wifes car. I can't even find the oil filter.
Heck the battery is in the fender well[inside the fender well.

I'm just sick about this whole thing.

Well one step at a time I guess.
See you guys later
 
Ron, big bummer. A rough guesstiment from me would be less than $500 to square things away, this includes highly inflated DC parts prices. Things could be worse.
 
One more thing #ad

Randall Noe Ford/Dodge dealer in Terrell Texas Sucks!!
It is the worst arm pitt in the whole country. There is
NOT another dealer NOWHERE that can bet him in RUDENESS.
He couldn't care less if you need help or if you even wanted to
buy a car. He is down right unfriendly.
I bought 2 cars from him and could not get any service done
right the first time or any time. He just didn't care, said go
somewhere else.
All I did was called them today, mentioned request for a re-call
check and got the cold shoulder and wait a minute and I don't think
there is any[without knowing what I wanted].
They do have good prices, but the service is at the par of Randall
Roes personality, a worm!!

Called Chapparal Dodge in Mesquite Texas will bend over backwards
to help. Thank you Chapparal... .

OK I'm done..... #ad
 
Very good David, thank you for posting that.
Your friends problem sounds exactly like mine I think.

Ol BIG RED will be hangin in the driveway til this weekend.
Say David, Did your friend have anything wrong with the brake booster?
Was wondering if it affects it as well.
Thanks again.


------------------
97 3500 SLT REDext cab duelly p/u 5sp 3:54 2wd 245/75R16
3" straight exhaust stock torque plate slid full foward star wheel tweeked
105,000 miles still with plenty of ZOOM... ZOOM... ZOOM

RON Z
 
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