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The front seal should be a high pressure ceramic seal... . usually either a 2 piece or 3 piece seal where a ceramic disc runs against a metal surface... in most cases these seals usually require a special tool to remove the old one and install the new one... .
Once this is done... you need the ability to pump the AC system into a vacuum and recharge the system...
The problem being is that if you don't do the seal exactly right there is a chance of leakage at operating pressure and leaks... . which just wastes freon and costs money...
We have a guy down the street we'd send our stuff and we're usually very handy with a wrench... just my thoughts... .
Jim, do you know off hand if the clutch on these compressors just unbolts and comes out... this one has the nut holding it on, which means it has the tapered shaft, correct?
The 3rd gens run a Sanden SD7 AC compressor. It has a lip seal. The rotating shaft that connects to the clutch is what the lip seal rubs (seals) against and this is where most AC compressors leak from. This is due to the dynamic seal with up to 450 psig head pressure behind it with very, very small R-134a molecules.
The clutch and the seal are serviceable.
The clutch requires a spanner and puller to remove. Go to untitled
The seal requires snap ring pliers to remove it. Go to untitled
The Sanden website has all of the service part numbers as well, so you can order whatever you need based on the p/n listed on the compressor.
This sounds great but please remember that if you leaked out all of your refrigerant, the innards of the compressor could be toast as the compressor oil leaks out with R-134a gas. Also, the clutch could be damaged or close to worn out if your vehicle has 100k or more miles. It may be easier or more cost effective to replace the compressor assy.