A friend asked a question about the front axles on '03's

[TPCDrafting]

And this was it:

Do you know if the 2003's still use that central axle disconnect? Haven't read if they do or not. I know they don't have locking hubs. Some of the Jeeps that kept the solid axle went full live axle with no disconnect.



I looked through some of the specs, but didn't find it. Thought I'd ask you more informed folks. Then I'll tell him and look like somebody who knows what he's talking about.

 

[chessie-system]

No more CAD for whatever reason they went to live axle on both the 2500&3500. Jeff

 

[David Muench]

"whatever reason"? Sure, it precludes a simple 2wd-lo setup, but other than that, it is much more reliable, much simpler, and less parts.



It would be nice if a simple manual hub conversion was possible, but that's a separate gripe. .

 

[chessie-system]

It also produces extra drag and lowers mpg and could be a source for wearing out the front driveshaft prematurely.

I'm for a manual hub conversion. I'll take it to a shop and have them put a locker in the front end and replace the not so limited slip rear end.



Jeff

 

[Badunit]

I wonder how much extra drag it really causes. It may be just a little more than what the axle disconnect had, though probably quite a lot compared to manual hubs. I'm not too worried about extra wear on the driveshaft; while it may be spinning, it isn't under any load so it should be able to take it. It would be nice to have manual hubs, especially for those of us who aren't four-wheeling that often.

 

[David Muench]

Only the drag of the driveshaft really, and I don't think that counts for very much. Even with the disconnect setup on the 2nd gens, the axle shafts are still spinning.



It's a proven system, been used on Jeeps for more than 5 years now, and it's my preference short of manual locking hubs.

 

[DIESELMAN]

Isn't the only difference that you can't use any form of locker or limited slip in the front because that would cause steering wheel jacking on pavement or hard surfaces?



Additional Parasitic losses are only the drive shaft and bearing faces, maybe a 1-2% more drag, but I doubt it. In a disconnect system, the spiders are running opossite directions relative to each other, one side tied to the left axleshaft, the other to the disconnected right shaft, therefore little or no rotation is translated to the ring gear, but the rest of the differential is still turning. The disconnected shaft will actually turn the opposite direction of the left shaft if the drive shaft doesn't turn. Drag on the disconnected shaft translates to some driveshaft rotation even in a disconnect system.



Only a free wheeling hub system has no motion in the pumpkin. All other schemes do.



The advantage to the disconnect non free wheel system is the entire front drive system remains oil film covered even if driven by a soccer mom and never put in 4X4. In a non disconnect, non free wheel the TC is added to the free lube rotation.

 

[David Muench]

Originally posted by DIESELMAN

Isn't the only difference that you can't use any form of locker or limited slip in the front because that would cause steering wheel jacking on pavement or hard surfaces?

Yep, that too. I'm not a fan of automatic lockers in front axles anyway though. . I ran an ARB in the front of my Jeep and a lockright in the back. I'll probably put some sort of auto-locker in the rear of my new Ram and maybe posi up front, once some options come out.

 

[Darel]

This is NOT TRUE. Most automatic lockers only engage when power is being delivered to them... 2wd, no power, no lock. It's an open diff. This is a big fallacy in the late-model Jeep world too. Lots of guys spend $700+ on a manual hub kit for their Jeep TJs so they can run a $300 locker up front. I have a '98, and I popped a Lock-Right in there, no disconnect or hubs, and in 2wd it drives exactly like it did before because the locker stays open.

Darel

 

[David Muench]

I really don't want to get into this argument. This is another argument that has almost as much misinformation flying around as rear lockers being dangerous/poor handlers in winter.



I'd just say that my Jeep had (sold it) a lockright in the rear, a hub kit in the front, an an ARB in the front, and I feel that's the best way to do it. My '03 Ram will either stay open in the front, get a limited slip, or get a selectable locker. I use my 4wd on the road in the winter, and don't want to kill a bunch of people or wreck my truck with an automatic front locker. 'Nuff said.

 

[d90boy]

My biggest problem with the front driveshaft turning all the time is that double cardan joints have a ball and socket arangement between the two u-joints. You can't grease the ball and socket and when they wear out you get a lot of vibration. This has been my experience with front and rear double cardan joints on my Land Rover which are Dana/Spicer.

 

[DIESELMAN]

Originally posted by Darel

This is NOT TRUE... . I popped a Lock-Right in there, no disconnect or hubs, and in 2wd it drives exactly like it did before because the locker stays open.

Darel

But Richmond Gear (LockRight) says... ...



No you cant, for street use without locking hubs you will get excessive wear on all parts including tires. You will get locking and unlocking on straight aways and locking up on turns... ...



ah, what do they know anyway