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A ton of questions (engine/drivetrain)

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Vibrating Injection Pump

Lift pump replacement?

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I've decided to keep my 93 (D350 clubcab 2wd auto) and help it out a bit.



1) I need to swap to a manual (thinking NV4500 or possibly an NV5600) Has anyone done this to full completion? What all is needed and how difficult is it? I have a full fab shop at my disposal if I need to make anything.



2) My rear end is going to need a rebuild. I have 4. 10's in there now and would like to go to a 3. 54 - Where can I get parts affordably or a donor axle?



3) After pulling a trailer to AZ this weekend I realized how badly this truck is in need of a power shot. Pulling light hills in west texas at 50 mph was about to get the best of me. My only mods are straight pipe, turned up off-boost, and turned up full boost. I'm wondering if anyone makes a better air filter box than stock (and cost), if not, I'll pick up a filter and hog out the air box with a hole saw.

What turbo? I'm towing with it so I need to watch my heat.

Which injectors?

Does 4" exhaust help out substantially?

Larger downpipe?

Stay with stock cam or change it out?



Also, does anyone make a full gasket replacement kit?



Any other tips would be great!



Thanks



Sean
 
questions

1. Do a search on the conversion. From what I read, I think you would be better satisfied if you go on to the 5600. It is aparently more involved than the 4500 conversion.



2. You can use the gear set from any dana 70 that is 3. 54. Finding a complete rear will be a little more trouble. Be glad you are not looking for a 3. 07. There is a post in the frequently ask questions regarding the 70. I started the thread but there is very good input from several members.



3. I think you have something wrong with your engine. My truck is box stock and will pull all but the steep hills in Texas without getting back to 50 mph. Or perhaps you have more load.



There are air box mods but I don't have one.

Read the stickys on boosting horse power. There are many possibilities.

The lucas injectors (PODs) along with the required timing tweaks will put some kick in the Cummins. Several have mentioned others that work quite well.

Unless you are planning really big hp, the stock cam will be fine.

Stick with Cummins on the gaskets. They are the best.

Get some gages so you will know what you are doing with the heat.



I am sure someone else will jump in with more info.



James
 
"have 3. 07 and I love them"

So would I if I could find a dually rear at a decent price. I am not down on them by any means. The 3. 54, 3. 73, 4. 11 and 4. 56 is easily available around here for a third of the price of a 3. 07. I have been looking for a set of 3. 07s for several years.



James
 
I had a 36' gooseneck (hydraulic dovetail - trailer weighs approx 8,000lbs) and I had an airplane on it. I was pushing 16k and fighting wind.



When I'm in my 04. 5 and get in the 93 I feel the biggest difference:D



Who is the best (most affordable) choice for parts? Also, what kind of money am I looking at?



Hmmm... . 3. 07's, The top speed of higher than 82 would be VERY welcome
 
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Ok Texan, get a pen or pencil ready... .....

First off get guages, don't do anything else until then... .

Then replace airbox like you have allready suggested

Then 4" exhaust, ATS manifold, with pdrhx35 and 16cm turbo housing

Call Piers Diesel Research, and they can help you choose injectors

Then tune your pump and timing.

As far as your gearbox if you are going to change get the 6 spd and be done with it.

The 3. 54 will work well with the extra gear.

Check my signature, My truck tows really well now, and I haven't had a problem with EGTs yet, max so far is 1250F, I need to upgrade to the six speed also, hopefully soon.
 
I wonder how much the auto was hurting you. 16,000 gross, or was that 16,000 + the weight of the truck? When mine was stock fuel with stock tires I could pull loads like that in OD no problems. With your 4;10's you should be able to tow any where. I wonder if the convertor was slipping that badly or if there is something wrong with the engine.



I have been very happy with the Bosch 185's to towing. A nice shot in the pants, with very managable EGT's. However they have gotten pretty expensive. I would try some 190's and be good. PODs are much bigger, I have no experience with them. Piers suggested I go with the 185's because I did not want to have to babysit the pyro. My fuel is tweaked pretty good, and the pyro can get high if I lug it. But if I can set the cruise with the proper gear, I can pull OD/3. 55's and 33" tires at 72 mph, and 28,000 # gross. I don't know what Texas is like but 80 arcoss Iowa is not flat by any means. I can pull OD from Davenport to west of Des Moines, cruise on.



I have not put 4" on my truck yet, however my brother has to a stock CTD. He said it had better low end and more responsive over the 3" straight. I am eventually going to 4" and will get 4" downpipe too. I don't see any reason of having 4" only part of the exhaust.



With 3. 55's 95+mph is very easy to get. I would worry about starting heavy loads with the 3. 07's though. There have been a few times loaded heavy I wished I had a lower first. But this does not happen enough that I wished I had 4;10's. They are too slow with stock size tires.



ASA air filter kit is the one I have been eyeballing. PM Samsrams-he will help you with that.



As far as all parts, I have had very good luck with www.piersdiesel.com. Get their number off thier webcite and call them. They will not lead you astray. They are very good with first genners, and they probably have done a auto/manual conversion.



Good luck, happy bombing, and welcome to the slippery slope club.



Michael
 
TX Gooseneck said:
I've decided to keep my 93 (D350 clubcab 2wd auto) and help it out a bit.







2) My rear end is going to need a rebuild. I have 4. 10's in there now and would like to go to a 3. 54 - Where can I get parts affordably or a donor axle?





ok... if you pull relatively heavy like you said later, why would you go to the 3. 54's??? IMO the 4. 10's suit your needs better than the 3. 54, but thats just me



Tim
 
If your going to tow at or below 16k the 3. 54's will work fine and give you more top end and better mileage. The 4. 10's will allow you to tow more weight easier but will hurt top end and mileage. You can go up in tire size and help that a lot. Stay away from the 3. 07's if you do any towing other than light stuff. They are not a good setup for towing and are expensive when they break.



Why swap to a manual. You can have an auto that will take more than you should realistically tow with that truck with a lot less hassle. It doesn't matter whether you have a manual or auto you will have to upgrade something to get a solid unit. Since you have the auto and a 2x4 its really a bolt in upgrade with having to dig up the rest of the parts. The NV4500 is really the only path if you want to keep the OEM speedo and setup. The 5600 has no speedometer connection and its a hack to get the clutch, bell housing, slave cylinder, etc to work correctly and stay working. If you like to tinker its great but it doesn't seem to hold up well when you really work it.



If you have not done so, at 230k its probably time for some pump and injector work. Unless the trans is slipping badly you should be able to do better than 50 mph on those hills.



Air in and air out will make a big difference in power and controlling EGT's. A 4" exhaust should work fine. You can put the 4" DP on but unless you BOMB it heavy its probably not needed. Rather than hack on the air box a BHAF and a prefilter will work out better in the long run. The turbo and injectors are a matter of choice and how much power you want. There are a lot of combos and choices.
 
HTML:
Does 4" exhaust help out substantially?

In my opinion YES, as others have said.

It gave me about 3 to 4 psi increase in max boost, noticably quicker spoolup, and much quicker turbo cooldown.



Jay
 
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I also noticed a huge difference with the 4" exhaust (from the downpipe back, DP is still 3"). When towing the Jeep on the trailer before I could easily hit 1250* on mild climbs. Coming home from a run yesterday pulling long 7% and 8% grades at 55-60 MPH it never hit 1250*. :)
 
I use my 2004. 5 for the most part. Business has been booming so I have to use my 93 to tow (usually my daily driver). The 4. 10's are brutal! I'm seeing 35-40k on my 04 consistently. The 3. 73's with 6M are great!



My weight was 16k gross. From Abilene to Las cruces it's one long hill. I was thinking the wind and running hot was hurting me. I could probably stand to replace the intercooler as well.



I bought this truck with 220k on the clock. I just had the timing on the pump set, but it stills feels sluggish (I'm assuming it was set back to OEM specs) The injectors to the best of my knowledge have never been touched. What kind of power is the stock pump good up to? How much is an aftermarket pump?



The transmission feels ok. It was rebuilt as soon as I bought the truck. I figured for what I'm doing, I'd have better luck with the stick. I also have employees that I need to factor in;) It didn't feel like it was slipping. On the flat I was able to creep up to 70 and max out at 75 if I hit it going downhill.



Does piers do a 4" exhaust?



Oh yeah, who makes wheels to fit these trucks? If I remember correct, these are centered on the lug stud and not the hub, correct? Mine will not balance out and the truck rides like a fat girl with palsey. I'm getting ready to repaint, build a nice western hauler style flat bed, new carpet, and new seats. Might as well do it nice all the way :)
 
TX Gooseneck said:
Oh yeah, who makes wheels to fit these trucks? If I remember correct, these are centered on the lug stud and not the hub, correct? Mine will not balance out and the truck rides like a fat girl with palsey. I'm getting ready to repaint, build a nice western hauler style flat bed, new carpet, and new seats. Might as well do it nice all the way :)



You can get stock replacement and Alcoa wheels from

Southwest Wheel. Eagle Alloys and a few other companies make custom wheels for dually trucks, but be sure to check the weight ratings and make sure their up to par for the loads you're hauling.
 
1stgen4evr said:
"have 3. 07 and I love them"

So would I if I could find a dually rear at a decent price. I am not down on them by any means. The 3. 54, 3. 73, 4. 11 and 4. 56 is easily available around here for a third of the price of a 3. 07. I have been looking for a set of 3. 07s for several years.



James

i have a rear that has 307 gears in it, its complete and worked good when i pulled it its out of a 89 srw3/4 ton.
 
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