Here I am

AAM axles none anti-slip additive

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

hi-perf injectors

tweeked input shaft for the NV5600

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted by PJereb

GET IT! Change your order now…….



The anti-spin differential is not a limited slip. It is a torque biasing differential, Quaife has built these things for years, and it looks like AAM is either using a Quaife unit, or they have copied the design. Torque biasing differentials have no clutches to wear out, and should last as long as a standard open differential. DC is using the Quaife brand units in the SRT-4 and I believe they also use them in the Viper. I have heard chatter on the board of people having problems, but I really think it is caused from improper additives, as the torque biasing differential is not a LSD you should not add any LSD additives, or use gear oil with the additives already in it. In the owners manual it recommends "GL-5 SAE 75W-90 Synthetic. Limited-Slip AAM Rear Axles DO NOT REQUIRE a limited slip additive. ”



If you want to read up on Quaife go to http://www.quaifeamerica.com/







Does amsoil make a gear oil without anti-slip additives
 
Nice post. I just changed my lube last week. I was talking to a mechanic at the dealer and he told me to be sure and use the additive. As a matter of fact, he gave me a tube of BG additive for LSD. I changed the lube but didn't put in the additive because the manual says it is not required. Everything is working fine so I'm not going to add it.
 
On my 2004. 5 with 4. 10LS it would grind rather hard when I was in a hard pull turning to the left. I took it to a dealer and he called DC and they said it was caused by my hard use of the truck with the TST installed and they un-officially voided my warranty. I had changed to AMSOIL gear oil and my AMSOIL dealer sent me some additive to place in it. This did not help.
 
Actually, these differentials still do have clutches... they are called "shoes" in the schematics of the LSD... I posted this before and got told I didn't know what I was talking about though even when I have the manual in front of me... :rolleyes:



I personally don't think they work to good at all... this thing does one-wheelie-peelies all the time when it should be two... my D70 Powerloc never let me down for traction. In snow, it is almost like the AAM LSD isn't there...



steved
 
steved said:
Actually, these differentials still do have clutches... they are called "shoes" in the schematics of the LSD... I posted this before and got told I didn't know what I was talking about though even when I have the manual in front of me... :rolleyes:



I personally don't think they work to good at all... this thing does one-wheelie-peelies all the time when it should be two... my D70 Powerloc never let me down for traction. In snow, it is almost like the AAM LSD isn't there...



steved
MINE DOES THE SAME THING AND EVEN WORSE WITH BIG TIRES... ... ... :{ I WONDER IF YOU CAN TIGHTEN THEM UP ? :cool:
 
TCluff said:
I WONDER IF YOU CAN TIGHTEN THEM UP ? :cool:



Nope... the way they are designed, as you apply power, it forces the "shoes" together... they don't have any "preload" like the Dana LSDs... which is what I really miss.



steved
 
I've already change my diff oil. I used 75-90 royal purple that already has the additive in it. I knew that I didn't need but could it really hurt to have it in there anyway. I've considered changing it just for piece of mind but I'd need some factual information explaining why it would be bad to leave the additive in there. Thanks!
 
The design is based on a Torenson type differential and they do have a clutch, really a brake shoe, that is supposed to stop the spinning wheel and shift power to the other one. Mine and a lot of others works just fine, but, there are some that don't work well. Nobody has come up with a reason for it yet. The design suggest thepossibility the brake shoes are not working correctly for whatever reason. Could be the type of fluid used or wear or ??? Until somebody takes one apart and puts it back together to work correctly we willnever know where the issues are.
 
I'm running Mobile 1 75/90 right now... have 85/140 Royal Purple waiting...



I doubt the additive would hurt a thing... it basically keeps the clutches from "sticking" in the older LSDs... since these are being forced together under power... I doubt it would make a difference.



I didn't really notice any difference changing from factory oil to the Mobile 1.



steved
 
cerberusiam said:
Until somebody takes one apart and puts it back together to work correctly we willnever know where the issues are.



I might need to rebuld my diff since it sounds like the pinion bearings are starting to whine... if I do, you can bet I'll have that thing in pieces to figure out how it works/why it doesn't work.



steved
 
I too have wondered about all the posts complaining about the AAM LSD. :confused: Mine works great in sand, mud, snow and DG. I changed to fluid to AMSOIL at 12k, 1 year with no additive and it still works great. I have a hard time believing this is luck given modern computer aided manufacturing (CAM). I have experience with positrack and Auburn Pro. The AAM LSD is as good, if not better, than these.
 
steved said:
I might need to rebuld my diff since it sounds like the pinion bearings are starting to whine... if I do, you can bet I'll have that thing in pieces to figure out how it works/why it doesn't work.



steved



Thats what it will take to provide answers for those that have a problem with theirs. Mine works great in mud, snow, and ice. You can feel the TQ bias kick in on a corner if you roll too much throttle into it. Others experiences lead one to believe it is a worthless item. Some have noticed a binding after dumping the factory lube and have had to put friction modifier in and others don't. I find it hard to believe there is that much variation in manufacturing that would cause the work/no work situations, but, it could be possible.



Steved, does your work well, so-so, or POS?
 
cerberusiam said:
Steved, does your work well, so-so, or POS?



POS... I can take off hard and it may or may not spin posi. On snow... it only spins one wheel... everytime. On gravel, same deal... one wheel usually.



Amount of power doesn't matter... I mean I can be rolling in 3rd, jump on it and sometimes it'll light both up... other times it'll single track.



It is very unpredictable... the worst part about it is that fact that I turned down nicer trucks when I was buying because they didn't have posi... then I get it and it is a POS. I would give my right arm to have a PowerLoc for it... this thing acts like an open diff, I mean even an open diff will spin posi sometimes...



Oh, and I know it has one in there... I had the cover off to inspect it...





steved
 
The Torsen limited slip differential was invented by American Vernon Gleasman and manufactured by the Gleason Corporation. Torsen is a contraction of torque sensing.



The Torsen uses crossed axis helical gears to increase internal friction when one wheel spins faster than the other. The slower-moving wheel always receives more torque than the faster-moving wheel. The Torsen does not have a preload so some traction is necessary in order to transfer torque. If one wheel were raised in the air, the Torsen would act like an open differential and no torque would be transferred to the other wheel.



One of the most famous uses of the Torsen LSD is in many of the various Audi quattro models, notably excluding the A3 and TT. It is also used, for example, in the Toyota Supra and Toyota Soarer (or Lexus SC430), the B5 platform revision of the Volkswagen Passat 4motion, and some versions of the Mazda MX-5/Miata



The HMMWV uses two Torsens, front and rear, with a normal manually lockable center differential in the center.
 
At 30K I switched my fluid to Amsoil with no additives. Prior to that, I had never experienced any shudder (slip) from the rear end. After the change I started experiencing frequent launch shudder - mostly when towing the trailer, or after long drives. This last trip back to Montana, I switched to Mobil 1 75-90 synthetic. The oil I drained out was extremely dirty gray. And now, I have no shudder anymore. I wish I still had my receipts for the Amsoil, I'd like to demand a refund on it. I wonder how much I affected the life of the limited slip (or anti spin if you like)?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top