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AAM Front Axle upgrade

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Passing some info along that I just found out about. I'm getting ready to rebuild my front axle on my 03 AAM Axle Dodge Ram 3500 by installing the DynaTrac free spin kit, Carli Ball Joints, I had my front axle drive shaft rebuilt by using a larger CV joint at the transfer case, a thicker wall and larger diameter driveshaft tube, and a larger front slip yoke with a larger regular type yoke for the front axle instead of the round flange that Dodge uses.



My driveshaft guy told me about a company called RCV Performance that makes a Constant Velocity shaft to take the place of the u-joint in the knuckle. I check their web site and sure enough they make one for the Dodge Ram. This suppose to allow the joint to have six overall swivel positions over the two that the regular u-joint provides. A smoother feel, Lifetime warranty and much stronger than the stock setup. I have replace those u-joints twice now and need to do it again now. I have contacted them and waiting for a quote to use them with the DynaTrac setup, because the outer shaft needs to be changed over there standard CV shaft. A stock Dodge without the free wheel kit runs about $ 1,900. 00



I'll keep you posted on how this setup works when I complete it.
 
No offense but ..... WOW 2K buys a lot of Ujoints especially if your not breaking them but only delaing with worn out units. Now if you breaking them all the time and having to replace the shafts sure, not bad... but Ill be honest I was a little taken back by the price. Not to mention with your free wheel kit you should be good to go for a really long time.
 
I am curious what you do to go thru that many u-joints? Or how many miles do you have?

The dynatrac's will all but eliminate wear and tear.

I would like to know how to increase the GAWR of the AAM thou! Its too easy to exceed the 5200 lb rating.
 
I don't think the limit is the housing, but the knuckle, BJ's, and u-joints. My truck is 4700 on the front axle as it sits without a driver. GVW is 8K on the nose.
 
I don't think the limit is the housing, but the knuckle, BJ's, and u-joints.

It depends on how the truck is used. It's pretty common for the axle tubes to bend, or pull apart from the cast differential housing if a sharp impact is encountered... such as taking a rough railroad track too fast, or getting too lively offroad. A good axle truss will help this greatly, and can be made to reinforce the axle "C"s.

Carli ball joints, Yukon's new 4340 shafts, and CTM joints should do a pretty decent job of reinforcing the rest...

--Eric
 
I don't think the limit is the housing, but the knuckle, BJ's, and u-joints. My truck is 4700 on the front axle as it sits without a driver. GVW is 8K on the nose.
WOW! My regcab must be heaps lighter as my front axle weight is 4400 w/ my 2000# Northstar mounted. No passengers.
 
Wow!

I have to be careful on how I load the truck for hunting, is very easy to get above 5200lbs without a trailer hooked up.
 
Where is all your front weight comming from?

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Otherwise I have no clue, I have a few extra parts like heavier batteries and a front receiver, but thats about it. . These aren't light trucks. There is probably 300lbs in my tool box and I am sure some of that goes to the front.
 
I've never wieghed my 3rd gen but my 2nd had 4k on the front just can't see an extra 1200 lbs on the front... ... ... . maybe I should hit the scales
 
I've never wieghed my 3rd gen but my 2nd had 4k on the front just can't see an extra 1200 lbs on the front... ... ... . maybe I should hit the scales



I'm only 700lbs more when empty (standard tools, etc in the tool box). It's just really easy to load the bed with gear and get the front to go up over the FAWR of 5200. This year going to elk camp I weighed in at 9340, with 5240 on the front. I loaded a little different coming home and weighed in at 10,380 with 5200 even on the front.
 
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