Anyways like i said. i . put 6 new injectors and tubes. redid the valves and YET i still have this blop blop blop, coming from my intake. now. no oil or foam or bubbles in my rad. no water in oil and no fuel either. no power and i have boost (50 lbs ) with mega mega smoke on take off. no power atall -it sounds and feels like a miss. i have my r49 set at 1350 so HOW could i have burnt a ring?? is it a ring or am i looking the wrong way? ? ? also the smoke clears when i make boost but i have no power...
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Aargh. Low Compression???
- Thread starter twinturbocummins
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i meant that i adjusted them... does a ring make noise when its on its way out??
im going to lose it. . i cannot drive it anymore, it is consistently stalling. no power whatsoever, but has boost. lots of smoke. stalling stalling stalling. . has a fast start miss. does not like starting after it has stalled. very very hard. the sound is a quiet blop blop blop out of the intake. just got a p0633 code. . skim key?? and 0480.
bd twins-pdr head-r49 tst-edge eze-lots of other stuff but not relevant
twinturbocummins said:
No Studs??
Have you checked the pressure relief valve? it would have to be really blown, check it first.
if thats not it and you have a mod friendly dealer have a tech to a cyl rationality test with the drb. it should give some insight if theres dead cylinders.
get ready for a headgasket, i just gone done with my re-torque today.
yes i have arp hardware. 12mm i beleive. what about the fast starting?? the noise is like pulling a plug on a gasser and trying to start it.
how do you know if the releif valve is toast. . i loosened the bolt and started my truck. . it was leaking. Also, when the truck is cold it starts INSTANTLY.
Yeah I think its a headgasket or something worse likely to cost you $3k+ to fix.
piers is going to look at it, however thats on the 26th---yay
I'm would have to probably agree with Loyd and Justin on this one.
It sounds like an issue with something sealing in the head area (valve, seat, bad crack, gasket). But, for peace of mind: take off your oil fill cap with the truck running and report back. Should you have little puffs of smoke coming out, then that could indicate something like a bad ring, piston, severely scuffed wall, etc...
Let us know, we're all here to try and help.
~Wes~
It sounds like an issue with something sealing in the head area (valve, seat, bad crack, gasket). But, for peace of mind: take off your oil fill cap with the truck running and report back. Should you have little puffs of smoke coming out, then that could indicate something like a bad ring, piston, severely scuffed wall, etc...
Let us know, we're all here to try and help.
~Wes~
i didnt notice any puffs of smoke coming out of the cap area. Any other ideas? it knocks LOUD when cold too. theres a miss at idle , when i put it in gear the miss is huge
can anyone direct me to a good site on how to pull the head as painlessly as possible. diagrams would be cool. i dont know if this is the issue BUT i think it has to be valve/compression related. cant hurt to pull the head
From All Data Online - for 2005 MY.
CYLINDER HEAD
REMOVAL
Disconnect battery negative cables.
Raise vehicle on hoist.
Drain engine coolant.
Disconnect exhaust pipe from turbocharger elbow.
Remove turbocharger drain tube bolts at turbocharger. Cap off ports to prevent dirt or foreign material from entering.
Lower vehicle.
Disconnect air inlet temperature/pressure sensor.
Remove air cleaner housing and snorkel from the vehicle. Cap off turbocharger air inlet to prevent intrusion of dirt or foreign material.
Disconnect cab heater core supply and return hoses from the cylinder head and heater pipe.
Disconnect turbocharger oil supply line at the turbocharger end. Cap off open ports to prevent intrusion of dirt or foreign material.
Remove exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head bolts, spacers, heat shield, retention straps, and cab heater plumbing. Remove exhaust manifold and turbocharger from the vehicle as an assembly.
Remove cooling fan/drive/shroud assembly.
Remove accessory drive belt.
Remove cooling fan support from cylinder block.
Remove upper generator bolt, loosen lower generator bolt, and rotate generator away from cylinder head.
Disconnect radiator upper hose from the thermostat housing.
Disconnect the Intake Air Temperature/Manifold Air Pressure, and Coolant Temperature sensor connectors.
Remove the engine harness to cylinder head attaching bolts and P-clips at front of head.
Remove the throttle linkage cover.
Remove the intake air grid heater wires from the grid heater.
Remove engine oil level indicator tube attaching bolt at fuel filter housing bracket and inlet air connection. .
Remove the charge air cooler-to-air inlet housing pipe.
Remove the engine wire harness attaching bolt and wire harness push-in fastener from air inlet housing.
Remove the air inlet housing and intake grid heater from the intake manifold cover.
Remove the two grid heater harness-to-cylinder head attaching bolts at front of cylinder head.
Remove the high pressure pump to fuel rail fuel line as follows:
Loosen fuel line nuts at fuel pump and at fuel rail.
Use a back-up wrench on the fitting at the fuel pump to keep it from loosening.
Remove the fuel rail to cylinder head fuel lines as follows:
Loosen No. 6 high pressure fuel line shield and position out of way.
Loosen the fuel line nuts at the fuel rail and at the cylinder head. Use a back-up wrench on HPC nut.
Remove the fuel line bracket bolts at the intake manifold cover.
Remove the engine lift bracket from the rear of the cylinder head.
Remove the fuel rail as follows:
Remove fuel rail pressure sensor connector.
Remove banjo fitting at pressure limiting valve.
Remove fuel rail bolts and fuel rail.
Remove the low pressure lines as follows:
Remove the fuel drain banjo fitting on the front side of fuel filter housing.
Remove the fuel drain banjo fitting on rear side of fuel filter housing.
Remove the fuel drain line support bracket on rear side of filter housing.
Disconnect fuel drain hose.
Remove banjo fitting at bottom of fuel filter housing.
Disconnect fuel supply hose at fuel filter.
Disconnect fuel heater, and water in fuel sensor.
Remove the fuel filter assembly-to-cylinder head bolts and remove filter assembly from vehicle.
Remove wire harness P-clip from cylinder head (located behind filter housing). NOTE: Verify that the cylinder head cover ground spring is retained in the cylinder head cover.
Remove the cylinder head cover.
Disconnect rocker housing injector harness connectors.
Remove injector harness nuts from injectors.
Remove the rocker levers (1), cross heads and push rods. Mark each component so they can be installed in their original positions. NOTE: The #5 cylinder exhaust and the #6 cylinder intake and exhaust push rods are removed by lifting them up and through the provided cowl panel access holes. Remove the rubber plugs to expose these relief holes.
Remove the fuel return line and banjo bolt at the rear of the cylinder head. Be careful not to drop the two (2) sealing washers.
Remove the fuel injectors.
Remove rocker housing bolts and rocker housing and gasket.
Reinstall the engine lift bracket at the rear of cylinder head. Torque to 77 Nm (57 ft. lbs. ) .
Remove twenty six (26) cylinder head-to-block bolts.
Attach an engine lift crane to engine lift brackets and lift cylinder head off engine and out of vehicle.
Remove the head gasket and inspect for failure.
CLEANING-CYLINDER HEAD
CAUTION: Do not wire brush head surface while fuel injectors are still installed. Fuel injector damage can result.
Remove fuel injectors before cleaning (if not already removed during cylinder head removal).
Clean the carbon from the injector nozzle seat with a nylon or brass brush.
Scrape the gasket residue from all gasket surfaces.
Wash the cylinder head in hot soapy water solution (88°C or 140°F ).
After rinsing, use compressed air to dry the cylinder head.
Polish the gasket surface with 400 grit paper. Use an orbital sander or sanding block to maintain a flat surface.
CLEANING-CROSSHEADS
Clean all crossheads in a suitable solvent. If necessary, use a wire brush or wheel to remove stubborn deposits. Rinse in hot water and blow dry with compressed air.
CLEANING-PUSHRODS
Clean the pushrods in a suitable solvent. Rinse in hot water and blow dry with compressed air. If necessary, use a wire brush or wheel to remove stubborn deposits.
INSPECTION - CYLINDER HEAD
Inspect the cylinder head for cracks in the combustion surface. Pressure test any cylinder head that is visibly cracked. A cylinder head that is cracked between the injector bore and valve seat can be pressure tested and reused if OK; however, if the crack extends into the valve seat insert bore, the cylinder head must be replaced.
Visually inspect the cylinder block and head combustion surfaces for localized dips or imperfections. Check the cylinder head and block combustion surfaces for overall out-of-flatness. If either the visual or manual inspection exceeds the limits, then the head or block must be surfaced.
Check the top surface for damage caused by the cylinder head gasket leaking between cylinders.
Inspect the block and head surface for nicks, erosion, etc.
Check the head distortion. Maximum overall variation end to end is 0. 305 mm (0. 012 inch) , and maximum overall variation side to side 0. 076 mm (0. 003 inch) .
DO NOT proceed with the in-chassis overhaul if the cylinder head or block surface is damaged or not flat (within specifications).
Check block surface for distortion. Maximum variation end-to-end is 0. 076 mm (0. 003 inch) , side-to-side 0. 051 mm (0. 002) .
Visually inspect the cylinder head bolts for damaged threads, corroded/pitted surfaces, or a reduced diameter due to bolt stretching.
If the bolts are not damaged, their "free length" should be measured using the cap screw stretch gauge provided with the replacement head gasket. Place the head of the bolt against the base of the slot and align the bolt with the straight edge of gauge . If the end of the bolt touches the foot of the gauge, the bolt must be discarded. The maximum bolt free length is 132. 1 mm (5. 200 inch) .
INSPECTION - CROSSHEADS
Inspect the crossheads for cracks and/or excessive wear on rocker lever and valve tip mating surfaces. Replace any crossheads that exhibit abnormal wear or cracks.
INSPECTION-PUSHRODS
Inspect the push rod ball and socket for signs of scoring. Check for cracks where the ball and the socket are pressed into the tube.
Roll the push rod on a flat work surface with the socket end hanging off the edge. Replace any push rod that appears to be bent.
CYLINDER HEAD
REMOVAL
Disconnect battery negative cables.
Raise vehicle on hoist.
Drain engine coolant.
Disconnect exhaust pipe from turbocharger elbow.
Remove turbocharger drain tube bolts at turbocharger. Cap off ports to prevent dirt or foreign material from entering.
Lower vehicle.
Disconnect air inlet temperature/pressure sensor.
Remove air cleaner housing and snorkel from the vehicle. Cap off turbocharger air inlet to prevent intrusion of dirt or foreign material.
Disconnect cab heater core supply and return hoses from the cylinder head and heater pipe.
Disconnect turbocharger oil supply line at the turbocharger end. Cap off open ports to prevent intrusion of dirt or foreign material.
Remove exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head bolts, spacers, heat shield, retention straps, and cab heater plumbing. Remove exhaust manifold and turbocharger from the vehicle as an assembly.
Remove cooling fan/drive/shroud assembly.
Remove accessory drive belt.
Remove cooling fan support from cylinder block.
Remove upper generator bolt, loosen lower generator bolt, and rotate generator away from cylinder head.
Disconnect radiator upper hose from the thermostat housing.
Disconnect the Intake Air Temperature/Manifold Air Pressure, and Coolant Temperature sensor connectors.
Remove the engine harness to cylinder head attaching bolts and P-clips at front of head.
Remove the throttle linkage cover.
Remove the intake air grid heater wires from the grid heater.
Remove engine oil level indicator tube attaching bolt at fuel filter housing bracket and inlet air connection. .
Remove the charge air cooler-to-air inlet housing pipe.
Remove the engine wire harness attaching bolt and wire harness push-in fastener from air inlet housing.
Remove the air inlet housing and intake grid heater from the intake manifold cover.
Remove the two grid heater harness-to-cylinder head attaching bolts at front of cylinder head.
Remove the high pressure pump to fuel rail fuel line as follows:
Loosen fuel line nuts at fuel pump and at fuel rail.
Use a back-up wrench on the fitting at the fuel pump to keep it from loosening.
Remove the fuel rail to cylinder head fuel lines as follows:
Loosen No. 6 high pressure fuel line shield and position out of way.
Loosen the fuel line nuts at the fuel rail and at the cylinder head. Use a back-up wrench on HPC nut.
Remove the fuel line bracket bolts at the intake manifold cover.
Remove the engine lift bracket from the rear of the cylinder head.
Remove the fuel rail as follows:
Remove fuel rail pressure sensor connector.
Remove banjo fitting at pressure limiting valve.
Remove fuel rail bolts and fuel rail.
Remove the low pressure lines as follows:
Remove the fuel drain banjo fitting on the front side of fuel filter housing.
Remove the fuel drain banjo fitting on rear side of fuel filter housing.
Remove the fuel drain line support bracket on rear side of filter housing.
Disconnect fuel drain hose.
Remove banjo fitting at bottom of fuel filter housing.
Disconnect fuel supply hose at fuel filter.
Disconnect fuel heater, and water in fuel sensor.
Remove the fuel filter assembly-to-cylinder head bolts and remove filter assembly from vehicle.
Remove wire harness P-clip from cylinder head (located behind filter housing). NOTE: Verify that the cylinder head cover ground spring is retained in the cylinder head cover.
Remove the cylinder head cover.
Disconnect rocker housing injector harness connectors.
Remove injector harness nuts from injectors.
Remove the rocker levers (1), cross heads and push rods. Mark each component so they can be installed in their original positions. NOTE: The #5 cylinder exhaust and the #6 cylinder intake and exhaust push rods are removed by lifting them up and through the provided cowl panel access holes. Remove the rubber plugs to expose these relief holes.
Remove the fuel return line and banjo bolt at the rear of the cylinder head. Be careful not to drop the two (2) sealing washers.
Remove the fuel injectors.
Remove rocker housing bolts and rocker housing and gasket.
Reinstall the engine lift bracket at the rear of cylinder head. Torque to 77 Nm (57 ft. lbs. ) .
Remove twenty six (26) cylinder head-to-block bolts.
Attach an engine lift crane to engine lift brackets and lift cylinder head off engine and out of vehicle.
Remove the head gasket and inspect for failure.
CLEANING-CYLINDER HEAD
CAUTION: Do not wire brush head surface while fuel injectors are still installed. Fuel injector damage can result.
Remove fuel injectors before cleaning (if not already removed during cylinder head removal).
Clean the carbon from the injector nozzle seat with a nylon or brass brush.
Scrape the gasket residue from all gasket surfaces.
Wash the cylinder head in hot soapy water solution (88°C or 140°F ).
After rinsing, use compressed air to dry the cylinder head.
Polish the gasket surface with 400 grit paper. Use an orbital sander or sanding block to maintain a flat surface.
CLEANING-CROSSHEADS
Clean all crossheads in a suitable solvent. If necessary, use a wire brush or wheel to remove stubborn deposits. Rinse in hot water and blow dry with compressed air.
CLEANING-PUSHRODS
Clean the pushrods in a suitable solvent. Rinse in hot water and blow dry with compressed air. If necessary, use a wire brush or wheel to remove stubborn deposits.
INSPECTION - CYLINDER HEAD
Inspect the cylinder head for cracks in the combustion surface. Pressure test any cylinder head that is visibly cracked. A cylinder head that is cracked between the injector bore and valve seat can be pressure tested and reused if OK; however, if the crack extends into the valve seat insert bore, the cylinder head must be replaced.
Visually inspect the cylinder block and head combustion surfaces for localized dips or imperfections. Check the cylinder head and block combustion surfaces for overall out-of-flatness. If either the visual or manual inspection exceeds the limits, then the head or block must be surfaced.
Check the top surface for damage caused by the cylinder head gasket leaking between cylinders.
Inspect the block and head surface for nicks, erosion, etc.
Check the head distortion. Maximum overall variation end to end is 0. 305 mm (0. 012 inch) , and maximum overall variation side to side 0. 076 mm (0. 003 inch) .
DO NOT proceed with the in-chassis overhaul if the cylinder head or block surface is damaged or not flat (within specifications).
Check block surface for distortion. Maximum variation end-to-end is 0. 076 mm (0. 003 inch) , side-to-side 0. 051 mm (0. 002) .
Visually inspect the cylinder head bolts for damaged threads, corroded/pitted surfaces, or a reduced diameter due to bolt stretching.
If the bolts are not damaged, their "free length" should be measured using the cap screw stretch gauge provided with the replacement head gasket. Place the head of the bolt against the base of the slot and align the bolt with the straight edge of gauge . If the end of the bolt touches the foot of the gauge, the bolt must be discarded. The maximum bolt free length is 132. 1 mm (5. 200 inch) .
INSPECTION - CROSSHEADS
Inspect the crossheads for cracks and/or excessive wear on rocker lever and valve tip mating surfaces. Replace any crossheads that exhibit abnormal wear or cracks.
INSPECTION-PUSHRODS
Inspect the push rod ball and socket for signs of scoring. Check for cracks where the ball and the socket are pressed into the tube.
Roll the push rod on a flat work surface with the socket end hanging off the edge. Replace any push rod that appears to be bent.
Just to let everyone know. . it was my headgasket. Dave at pdr thinks its because of the backpressure issue on bd twins. im so ******. 2nd headgasket. my r49 is set at 1250. . like
Last edited by a moderator:
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Issue 128 – Digital Version
Digital Magazines
FREE!
TDR Test Drive - Digital Edition
Renew
Subscribe
Gift Subscriptions
Back Issues
Subscription Status
Address Change Form
Buyer's Guides
Ram Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The Perfect Collection
The Perfect Collection Vol. II
TSB Updates
Dodge/Cummins Historical Overview
Cameron Collection
What Makes Us Tick?
Product Showcase
Advertising
