About time for front brakes...any suggested upgrades for trucks that tow?

[Northfork]

Hi guys. Been gone awhile but back now...
My truck is now at 48k, the last 10k I have put on it. It is getting close to time to do the front brakes and since we live in the mountains and tow regularly, either a boat or a mid size 5th wheel toy hauler, I would like any thoughts you guys might have on rotors and pads...and upgrading them for my needs.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
It is good to be back....

 

[seafish]

While certainly there are more aggressive brake pads available for your truck, since you tow often in the mountains, my advice is to again use the oem Mopar "PREMIUM" brake pads that came on the truck from the factory (not the "value" line that dealership parts counters like to sell!!) and then ALSO buy and install an aftermarket exhaust brake (like the Pac Brake PXRB) that will let your engine slow you down instead of always having to use your service brakes!!! More expensive in the short term"" SURE, but the peace of mind from the added safety from being able to use the EB ad well as the service brakes, will more then pay for itself in peace of mind and SAFETY!!

Just my .02

 

[p-Bar]

Boy with the manual trans and jake brake you can do the Fred Flintstone with the braking. Stick with the mopar pads

 

[seafish]

Boy with the manual trans and jake brake you can do the Fred Flintstone with the braking. Stick with the mopar pads

LOL...I didn't even look at is sig to see that he ALREADY had the Jacobs EB !!!

Yup, no need for anything but the oem Premium pads.

Here are the part numbers for them--

05093267AA full set — Premium FRONT Disc Brake Pads

05093257AA full set — Premium REAR Disc Brake Pads

 

[p-Bar]

Yes I have learned to look at sigs LOL

 

[mwilson]

Another vote for the OEM pads, nothing better in my opinion. Also received the new set for the rear this week and noted that they have "TRW" stamped on the pad metal (the same manufacturer that makes the calipers for RAM). And on the box it says "Made In The USA".....worth every penny....so no question as to them being genuine OEM.

 

[Northfork]

Thanks guys. Looks like Mopar is the way to go, and much appreciate the part numbers too!

 

[KATOOM]

If you're replacing pads at only 50k miles then you're not using the EB correctly or enough. I use mine all the time, towing or not, and I changed out my factory front pads with 115k miles on them. And...they had about 1/4 or material on them still too. I just replaced them because I had them out.

 

[AH64ID]

Hi guys. Been gone awhile but back now...
My truck is now at 48k, the last 10k I have put on it. It is getting close to time to do the front brakes and since we live in the mountains and tow regularly, either a boat or a mid size 5th wheel toy hauler, I would like any thoughts you guys might have on rotors and pads...and upgrading them for my needs.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
It is good to be back....

At KATOOM mentioned you're replacing your brakes very early for a truck with a manual and an exhaust brake. I would suspect that you're not using the EB enough, or your trailer brakes are not working as they should, whether that's the brakes or the controller is something you'll have to research.

I also tow fairly heavy in and around the mountains and will be replacing my brake pads this month at 135K. That's even earlier than most, but there are a lot of heavy mountain miles in there.

I'm going with the OEM premium pads, actually ordering right now, and will install them myself.

 

[NIsaacs]

The OP said the truck has 48k miles on it..."he" put 10k on it, so he must have bought it used...maybe the original owner wiped them out, or maybe there is more material on them than the OP thinks. Why the quick judgement on driving style?

Nick

 

[KATOOM]

The OP said the truck has 48k miles on it..."he" put 10k on it, so he must have bought it used...maybe the original owner wiped them out, or maybe there is more material on them than the OP thinks. Why the quick judgement on driving style?

Nick

No one is "judging" but merely going by the information provided, and offering helpful advice for future reference.

 

[Northfork]

Know this is late returning but life as seemingly conspired against me lately when it comes to getting online. 87 year old Mom who depends on me to care for her home, etc...sure a story many of you have too.
I should have provided more information.
I bought the truck with 38k on it from a dealer who had sold it originally. Was actually able to talk briefly to the original owner. He was an older gentleman, he towed his wife's horse trailer 3-4 times a year. He lived in the mountains east of Salt Lake City. It had a gooseneck hitch in it which I removed and installed a B&W turn over ball and a Companion 5er hitch.
I put the Jake on the truck after I bought it. Before that it had no E-brake. I installed it when I was rigging the truck for the 5th wheel. We pull Donner Pass regularly, and do lots of mountain driving in general.
The Jake is a wonderful thing indeed.
I came from a truck with disc/drum combo. With that truck the front brakes wore considerably faster than the rears. I sold it with 103k on it and had put two sets of fronts on but was still on the original rears and yes they were adjusted correctly.
Can I expect that from the disc/disc package on this truck or should I plan for both ends at the same time? I realize pulling the wheels and looking is the correct way to know, just asking for general info here.

 

[seafish]

At 100k my front pads finally wore out but had plenty to go on the rear pads...IMO that is just the nature of braking physics combined with the sheer weight of the Cummins motor.

 

[Ozymandias]

It depends totally from the weight on the rear axle, mine has always 6000lbs on it, the rears wear almost faster then the front.

 

[TravisBartholomew]

Boy with the manual trans and jake brake you can do the Fred Flintstone with the braking. Stick with the mopar pads

I've herd that adding an engine brake to a truck with the 48RE is not recommended, is that true?

 

[slowmover]

My truck is at 220k. One brake job about 100k ago. None needed at present. No EB. 50/50 Town/Country. 35’ travel trailer.

Brake & tire wear is an indicator more of operator motivation to keep wear low than they are of job description difficulties.

I’ve used these trucks commercially and privately.

An EB isn’t even recommended until the trailer is above 10k in weight.

TRAILER BRAKES is where most of you “fail”.

Trailer drums are pretty well worthless. Trailer DISC (with antilock) is what’s needed. Complete game-changer.

And a better controller than a Prodigy if aftermarket necessary. (TUSON DIRECLINK)

Dodge Ram stock brakes are more than adequate

See to the rest.

 

[Ozymandias]

I've herd that adding an engine brake to a truck with the 48RE is not recommended, is that true?

No it isn't, thousands of them work flawlessly.
It's just not foolproof - the Driver needs to have the knowledge to use it properly.

 

[NIsaacs]

My truck is at 220k. One brake job about 100k ago. None needed at present. No EB. 50/50 Town/Country. 35’ travel trailer.

Brake & tire wear is an indicator more of operator motivation to keep wear low than they are of job description difficulties.

I’ve used these trucks commercially and privately.

An EB isn’t even recommended until the trailer is above 10k in weight.

TRAILER BRAKES is where most of you “fail”.

Trailer drums are pretty well worthless. Trailer DISC (with antilock) is what’s needed. Complete game-changer.

And a better controller than a Prodigy if aftermarket necessary. (TUSON DIRECLINK)

Dodge Ram stock brakes are more than adequate

See to the rest.

Looks good on paper.....

I have 5 trailers that I haul heavy with, all have drum brakes, my controller is a cheap Napa, my truck brakes go 100K miles+.

Where I live, I need an exhaust brake, every where I go is uphill or down. A lot of off highway, I use 4x4 on dry ground almost weekly, so Yes, my tires don't last at all.

My '01 Dodge 6spd in 4th gear, exhaust brake on, cruising off a 7% grade hauling a Kubota skid steer, about 23.500 lbs GCW.



Unloading the skid steer because even in 4x4 I can't pull the hill.....

 

[KATOOM]

I use my EB all the time. Unloaded or loaded... My brakes last forever too.

And its my understanding that all EB companies advise the EB is used at least once per drive to prevent carbon build up and sticking.

 

[dsldude]

I liked my ebc green stuff pads. They stopped much quicker than the stock ones.