About time for front brakes...any suggested upgrades for trucks that tow?

[Silver Tex]

Hey All!
So I’m looking at my 06 CTD, 6 speed brakes (I am the original owner) - it’s up on jack stands for tire rotation at a minimum.
The truck has 113K on it and tows 50% of the time. Mostly in the 12-14K GCVW range. We have since purchased a new (to us 5th wheel - Grand Design with GVW of 11990#’s), which I just pulled 500 miles back from Salt Lake to the Denver area across I-80. I weighed in Larimer WY at #17.5K GCVW. That’s the back story.

I have read through this thread and have a couple of questions.

Questions:
I’m a little shocked at the good condition of the disc brakes. The rotors and discs up front are fine, though they are dusting. The back rotors have angular (see attached picture) lines across them

. I don’t think this is a problem, but wanted some other opinions.

I am contemplating a disc setup on my 5ver (Kodiak) and an EB (Banks turbo mount). Each are going to run me about $1500 and probably can’t do both this winter. Thoughts on which is the priority?

Thanks all and I appreciate the dialogue that takes place here. Ultimately we own our own decision, but the input is beneficial.

Scott.

 

[cerberusiam]

Measure the width and check the run out. If the truck is used for real work likely need rotors. The composite rotors only last so long then it is time for new.

 

[Silver Tex]

Measure the width and check the run out. If the truck is used for real work likely need rotors. The composite rotors only last so long then it is time for new.

Thanks C,
Understood on the measurement of the rotor and run out. With regard to the fronts, they look so good and the rotors clean, are you suggesting they need replacement as well if they pass the measurement and run out testing? When you say composite, is this cast? Do we replace them in large part due to age even if they pass muster on measurements? The “work” that my truck does is limited to personal tows - 5ver, 10,000# dump trailer, small boat, etc. Nothing commercial and all privately owned.
Thanks again,

Ps - I noted in your signature you have the BBI injectors. I want to give a huge shout out to Martin and his team. I recently put the .5 BBI’s in and paired it with a Smarty Touch. Pulling my new 5ver back from Salt Lake (through Wyoming), I got 11.5 mpg hand calculated at 70 mph. Probably benefited somewhat from a partial tail wind, but still. Got 19 mpg (hand calculated) going out over I-70 with a head wind.

 

[cerberusiam]

No, if they meet minimum width and run out is good run them. That is the replacement criteria. I have found good rotors with-wise that had excessive run out and cuased vibrations.

 

[Regcabguy]

My brakes were like new@ 87K. However I had a panic brake situation that came up and it was a bit sketchy.I spoke to a guy with Z-36 Powerstop pads and rotors and he loved them. He tows a horse-shooing trailer everyday. There is a seat of the pants improvement over the OEM setup. We'll see how they hold up. I have the OEM equipment in the shed.

 

[Silver Tex]

My brakes were like new@ 87K. However I had a panic brake situation that came up and it was a bit sketchy.I spoke to a guy with Z-36 Powerstop pads and rotors and he loved them. He tows a horse-shooing trailer everyday. There is a seat of the pants improvement over the OEM setup. We'll see how they hold up. I have the OEM equipment in the shed.

RCG,
Thanks for the input. I’m a big Power Stop fan as well. Have them on 2 of our vehicles. I was considering Power Stop as a replacement if necessary. Good stuff!
Scott.

 

[Silver Tex]

No, if they meet minimum width and run out is good run them. That is the replacement criteria. I have found good rotors with-wise that had excessive run out and cuased vibrations.

 

[Silver Tex]

View attachment 116490View attachment 116491
View attachment 116492

Sorry, my commentary didn’t come with the pic’s

Rotors are in good shape, well above min thickness and run out is less than .002.

The interior surfaces of the bearings seem to show some discoloration. The bearings and cups appear fine, but I’m wondering if this discoloration is evidence of heat. There is no scuffing or blueing on the bearing cups. Perhaps since it is apart, I should change bearings and cups.

Thanks,
Scott.

 

[ncalb55]

Tire issues : I replaced my wheels and tires getting away from those lt tires and went to a 19.5 and I have approx 15000 on them and they look like they did the day I installed them. These tires are not anymore expensive than the stock tires. Best investment I ever made

 

[Prairie Dog]

I've never liked Dodge OEM pads. The stock pads age in a way that makes them require more and more pedal effort (they were NOT glazed). Eventually you can't even get a chirp out of them in a panick stop. There are much better alternatives that give you you stronger braking. EBC, Hawk, Power stop just to name a couple.
I tow in the mountains often and have had deer run out in front of me or other drivers do stupid things. Going to the Power Stops has been a night and day expiencence. Last year I had to dynamite the brakes on a steep hill with my 9K# trailer behind me. With the PS's I got the antilocks to kick in solidly. The OEM's wouldn't do that once they had any miles on them even though they had plenty of lining left. They're also nicer in stop and go because they require so much less pedal effort.
I suspect they eat rotors though. I don't care, it's a small price for better stopping power.

YMMV.

Scott