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ABS and Brake light are on

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Fluid level is ok and all vacumn lines to the booster look ok. What else should I look for? My generic manual said something about grounding a module and counting the flashes of the ABS light to see what code is there, how exactly do I do this? Is there a easy way to check the speed sensor on the rear axle?



Dennis





93 D350, 2wd auto.
 
ABS controller is behind the glove box on the firewall. Follow the harness that plugs into it down toward the botton of dash and there should be a single wire with a black connector over the spade. Sometimes it is wrapped in tape. Ground that wire for at least 5 seconds and the message console should start to flash sequences of numbers. Post the codes and I have them somewhere.



There are 3 places on the rear that can give problems.



1. The connction to the speed sensor on top of the diff.



2. The connection to the ABS unit on frame above left (driver) side of rear axle.



3. The frame forward of the ABS contoller is another connector.





Most of the time its a bad connection but not always. Pull the connectors in the 3 places and clean them as good as you can then smear with dielectric grease before reconnecting. Good luck.



One other thing, make sure the emergency brake switch is not the problem.
 
I have the same problem, which I found out only after I discovered that someone had removed my annunciator light bulbs. The lights must work to get the code. Seven flashes, I believe, indicate that the connection to the ABS sensor (located above rear differential) is the problem. This is a common enough problem for Dodge to issue a TSB. The connection to my sensor is broken. Of course you can't just buy a new connection, but must replace the entire wire from rear axle to glove box, $80+ at NAPA. The connection on my sensor is also broken. A new sensor runs about $35. I think I will pull the annunciator lights out again as I don't feel any more secure driving my truck with a primitive rear axle ABS, and put that money toward new injectors. My nickel's worth.
 
check your parking brake pedal, my pedal was'nt making contact with the switch, both brake and abs lights were on. have'nt had a problem since
 
Just an odd little problem I found with my truck. Every now and again, the key will not fully return to the run position when I let go of it. This condition rendered all of my accessories to have no power and lit my ABS and brake lights on the dash. The first couple of times it selfcorrected when I started to drive (rough ride). One time it didn't, and I figured it out when nothing in the cab worked, no signals or anything. Once I figured it out, no more problems.

Travis. .
 
Dennis,



I recently had my rear axle off the truck. Right after getting it back together, hitting a sharp bump in the road would cause the ABS and Brake lights to come on for a few seconds. During that time the radio would go off. I put dielectric grease in the ABS connector, on the axle and it has not done it since.
 
Try a couple of long hard stops to see if there is any loss of braking. A bad booster will cause the lights you mentioned to come on. Mine would do it if I sat in traffic holding the brakes on. would also do it after a long stop coming off the freeway and stopping at a light at the bottom. New booster took care of the problem.



The dodge manual says you should get three power assisted brake applications after you turn the engine off. If you loose vacumn in the booster the brake pedal gets real hard.
 
Rather than removing the bulbs from the message center, unplug the ABS controller behind the glove box. Solves the problem and leaves the brake light operational in case there is a physical problem with the brakes. You also don't have to take anything apart, only rotate the glove box down.



When I unplugged the controller in my '92, my brakes felt immediately better and it actually felt like the rear was doing something rather than the fronts doing all the work.



Later,

Joe
 
Sounds like my problem, brake and Anti-lock lights stay on... and I keep blowing 20 Amp fuses for the Stop Lamp/Anti-Lock Mod and Turn Signal/RWAL Mod and Hazard Flasher. Just replaced the Headlight switch, still blows all 3 fuses. Any help would be a big help.

Thanks in advance.

Gordy
 
Crash,



I like that advise, unplugging the controller. Unfortunately, I have to take my dash apart again to replace a failed odometer.

Kimmer
 
i second that notion

to unplug the ABS controller behind the glove box. Now those annoying little ABS abd BRAKE lights don't come on anymore and my brakes work just fine. Heck, I don't think the ABS did much of anything in the first place while they were "working" :rolleyes: . Just my . 02!



jaynes
 
Thanks for the advise. There has been no loss of braking, and the connections look ok. Which plug do I need to disconnect behind the glove box to disable the ABS? I don't have much faith in that old system either, and don't really care if it works or not, I just want the lights off.





Sounds like my problem, brake and Anti-lock lights stay on... and I keep blowing 20 Amp fuses for the Stop Lamp/Anti-Lock Mod and Turn Signal/RWAL Mod and Hazard Flasher. Just replaced the Headlight switch, still blows all 3 fuses. Any help would be a big help.
Unrelated problem, I was blowing 20 amp fuses also. I disconnected the dually flare light connector, and it took care of it. I still haven't got around to finding the short though, smewhere above the rear wheels though.



Dennis
 
When you swing the glove box down, you will see a black box with a gray connector on the firewall. That's the RWAL box.
 
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