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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission ABS-Brake Light In Dash

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BHerndon

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I really need some help to find the problem with my 99 1 ton duelly. I was coming home from Lodge Monday night when all of a sudden my ABS-Brake Light in the dash just came on. I have not had any problems with the truck stopping-no noise or anything. I checked the fuses and brake fluid-all is good. I did replace the front brake pads about 2,000 miles back and adjusted the rear brakes. All have been working fine until now. The brakes still appear to be working normal-I just have these two lights burning in my Instrument Cluster. Can anyone PLEASE HELP or has anyone had this problem? PLEASE ADVISE:::THANKS :confused: :{



BHERNDON::1990 1 ton duelly 160 eng. auto-all stock-miles unknown---1999 Red 1 Ton Quad Cab Duelly-235 CTD - 5 sp-354 rears-All Stock Also-65,000 miles.
 
Speed Sensor On Rear Axle Mine Did Samething And Blew Diff Oil All Over :{ I Have The Sensor On Order Hope It Comes In Today
 
Mods, please move this to 2nd gen drivetrain.



BTW,

It's probly a failing RWSS. Does your speedo work below 5-10MPH?



Merrick
 
Sorry for the mess up:::I thought I was putting this on 2nd gen. trucks. Is there a simple way to check the speed sensor. It has no diff. fluid blowing out. Any help would greatly be appreaciated.



Thanks again:::::BHerndon
 
Don't worry about it.



There isn't a way to check them. Except for the possibility of the speedo not working at low speeds. They are about $80 at the dealer.



Merrick
 
The speed sensor should read around 1800 ohms across the 2 pins. If it reads excessively in either direction it is bad. Cost is around 46 dollars.



Dave
 
Dave::::Thanks very much. I was hoping there was some way to verify if it is bad or not.



Thanks again and Thanks to you to Merrick... .
 
abs light error

Had same problem. Replaced speed sensor on rear axle fixed it. Easy fix.

You can run with light on, just abs will not be working.







1999 3500 xcab
 
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Thanks for the help. Got the speed sensor replaced and it cured my light problem. BEWARE__When replacing the sensor -it gets moisture in around the sensor above the o-ring position and it makes it hard to remove the sensor. I broke my sensor off just above the o-ring. It had rust down to the o-ring position. I sprayed some penitrating oil in it and used a small screwdriver in a circulier motion to remove the rust-blew it out good with air and sprayed a little more in the hole then took some expanson pliers and carefully started to rotate and lift gently at the same time. After it starts to turn it will slowly start to come up out of the hole. I had to repeat the cleaning process two more times before I finally got the sensor to come out. Note-as long as the o-ring is still in the hole-then the penitrating oil cannot get into the diff. Important to clean out the oil before removing the broken plastic peice off the old sensor. Hope this will help alert owners to the possible rust problems that I didn't think of being there.



BHerndon: :eek:
 
Do I have the same problem? My '96 3500 4x4 will, EVERY ONCE IN A WHILE, light the ABS and Brake lights, but IT DOES AFFECT MY BRAKING. When it happens I have no power brakes. It usually happens during the first few minutes after startup and is particularly noticeable in reverse.
 
do you have 4 wheel abs or just rear?

MacMc - do you have 4 wheel abs? My 99 doesn't, only rear. I had to replace some brake hardware yesterday. The blasted nails pulled through the spring retainers and the parts were floating around in the drums causing a god awful "squeek" when coming to a full stop. Of course the shoes wedged the drums from coming off easilly (once they were free from the axels), "oh how I hate drum brakes" :{.

Anyway, my ABS & Brake light kept coming on until I got the rear shoes adjusted correctly. If you havent done so yet try the GMC 3500 dualie brake cylinders - really helps. Did I mention I hate drum brakes? Saving for; rotor to rotor LS 3:54 w/disk set up or drum to disc conversion kit. Next minor bomb.
 
MacMc said:
Good question. How do I check?

Wish I had a good answer to the question I stirred up. I think there should be a block in the engine compartment with a bunch of brake lines going in and out of it, real close to the master cyl, it'll have some wires going to it also. Check fuse box for ABS fuse. Call dealer w/vin number and ask if they would fax you the equipment list your truck was ordered with. Sorry, I hope someone can do a better job trying to help you figure it out. I've not really looked at too many of our trucks w/4 wheel ABS in depth and presently I only have mine (rear only) as reference.
 
I too have the dreaded ABS and Brake light blues. My story was awfull though. So one day the lights came on driving down the freeway with a scraping noise. Then scraping sound went away but light still was on. Changed the sensor and nothing. So I was doing routine maintenence a few weeks later changing fluids and such and I noticed a lot of meatal flakes and then I found the chunks of the pinion gear in the bottom of diff. One of the chunks got in between tone ring and diff cover. So i had rear end rebuilt and new tone ring put on and still have the ABS and brake light on. My mechanic doesn't have older dodge diagnostic tool and I don't want to go to dealer. Could the new sensor that I replaced first be bad? ABS Light doesn't come on til I go over 15 mph but Brake light is always on. Any help is appreciated.
 
The way I read it you changed the sensor before the rebuid. In that case yes. A piece of flying debris during the interim could wipe it out. Unplug the sensor and ohm between the 2 pins. That reading will at least give you a starting point. Should read around 1800. If you get that number the problem is probably elsewhere. Might not hurt to pull the sensor and look for physical damage.



Dave
 
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