ABS light and Emergency brake light on ??

[JPLB22]

Was driving home last night in a blizzard and took a corner too fast ( because I'm an idiot ) and slid in to a curb. I don't know how fast I was going, but the hit felt pretty solid. When I hit, the door chimer chimed, and the ABS light came on and stayed on. When I got home I set the park brake to get out and open the garage, now it stays on continually, even after realeasing the park brake.



I checked for codes with the Smarty but, had nothing but the checksum error, so I cleared that one anyway. When I got home from work today I took the truck out for a drive. Everything feels normal, pulls slightly to the right just like always, rides really smooth at 80 mph. So I took it to the car wash because a friend from work said there might be a ABS sensor behind the rim, and I may have gotten it dirty. Washing the wheels and behind really well made no difference.



So what might I have done ?? And what might I do to fix ??



Sorry post is long, just wanted to get everything in. TIA



Jeff



P. S. I hit on the driver side, and the ABS doesn't work. I did a panic stop from about 20 mph and no anti lock.

 

[JHardwick]

The ABS and parking brake light ought to go out on their own. Did you spend a lot of time spinning the rear wheels? The ABS works under load too for some reason ... ... ... ... . I know this because I can hear it under braking AND acceleration if the wheels are spinning in my CB radio. I can hear the door locks and the ABS in my CB ... ... ..... go figure.



Anyway, when my ABS and park light come on, they always go out on their own once all four wheels are rolling the same.

 

[PBrauer]

ABS will NOT work when the light is on, regardless of the "current" condition. It's a flag that stays set until it is reset, if that makes sense...



The ABS is either a separate computer or a separate part of the ECM/PCM. You usually cannot read ABS codes without a DC scanner. If the light is on then there is a code, guaranteed. Dealer is probably the only one who can read it though.



ABS faults can (and often are) temporary, as it is a sensitive and surprisingly hard working system. It normally takes a certain number of "good driving sessions" for it to clear itself. It's a "software/firmware" thing. Disconnecting batteries, etc. normally will NOT clear ABS codes. DC scanner can.



If your speedo is working fine then there's a good chance everthing's OK. The sudden change of speed of your LF wheel probably didn't agree with the ABS expectation while active and it thinks a solenoid may have failed.



Whatever you do, don't let anyone convince you to replace ANY computers w/o scanning it with a DC (dealer) scanner first. Independant mechanics, honest or otherwise, relying on software patches to their scanners can get it wrong. DC does a great job of keeping ABS work all to themselves.



If you did break anything it's probably just the sensor. It sits very close to the tone ring (inside the wheel) so you may have flexed the wheel enough to rub it. They aren't very expensive... all things considered. Not hard to replace either.



BOTH lights on at the same time does mean something, I just can't remember what. Working from old experience here, not recent. It could also be a separate (simple) problem with the switch over the pedal. Try setting AND releasing the break then watching the key-on light "test" sequence. My '06 truck flashes the break light if I put it in drive while the break is still set. (I try to actually watch those lights so I know when they do something different. You'd be surprised how much info is hidden in those sequences. )



Good luck and next time... . try to hit the other curb... much safer.



New here. Great forums. I'll try to get a sig up soon.

 

[Semicrazy]

You can only see the ABS codes with the DRBIII scan tool from DC or an aftermarket scanner that can read enhanced vehicle manufacture codes.



The ABS light trigger the brake light for most of the ABS codes, most manufactures do this (I think it may be related to FMVSS regulations). This is to signafy that your truck is going to brake differently right now and if you fix the ABS code your brake light will go off. As PBrauer stated you do not have ABS function right now, so please be careful.



Here are vehicle specific ABS codes for a 2003 2500 4x4



21 - Right Front Sensor Open

22 - No Signal From Right Front Sensor

23 - Intermittent Signal From Right Front Sensor

25 - Left Front Sensor Open

26 - No Signal From Left Front Sensor

27 - Intermittent Signal From Left Front Sensor

35 - Rear Sensor Open

36 - No Signal From Rear Sensor

37 - Intermittent Signal From Rear Sensor

38 - Wheel Speed Mismatch

41 - Right Front Isolation Solenoid Open

42 - Right Front Dump Solenoid Open

43 - Right Front Isolation Solenoid Shorted

44 - Right Front Dump Solenoid Shorted

45 - Left Front Isolation Solenoid Open

46 - Left Front Dump Solenoid Open

47 - Left Front Isolation Solenoid Shorted

48 - Left Front Dump Solenoid Shorted

51 - Rear Isolation Solenoid Open

52 - Rear Dump Solenoid Open

53 - Rear Isolation Solenoid Shorted

54 - Rear Dump Solenoid Shorted

63 - Rear Reset Switch Closed

65 - Internal Main Relay Open

66 - Internal Main Relay Shorted

67 - Pump Motor Circuit Open

68 - Pump Motor Stalled

69 - Excessive Dump Time

71 - Ram Read/Write

72 - ROM Checksum

73 - Watchdog

74 - System Control Mode Timeout

75 - ECU Internal Failure

78 - Foundation Brake

81 - Brake Switch Circuit

82 - Number of Tone Ring Teeth Out of Range

83 - Tire Revs Per Mile Out of Range

84 - Mismatched VIN

85 - Body Style Mismatch

90 - Left Front Sensor Shorted

91 - Right Front Sensor Shorted

93 - Rear Sensor Shorted

96 - System Over/Under Voltage

 

[JPLB22]

Well, I've started and drove the truck 4 times since I bumped the curb, and the emergency brake light and ABS light are still on. Is this something that can clear itself ? Or must it be cleared by a scanner ?



And yes, my ABS is not working. I tested it with a panic stop the other night, no chatter.



Jeff

 

[PBrauer]

No idea how many trips it'll take or even if it applies to your truck. It could be 5-10 or it could be 20+... and I could be wrong anyway. You might consider just asking a dealer to scan it. It's something a friendly service writer will do for free, but they usually charge a flat fee. I took a Jeep to the dealer for an oil change and asked if they'd scan it then. He gave me the codes, but he was always great to deal with. Wish I could find another one as I don't live there anymore. If you pay a fee, be sure to research the high idle, ecm flash, etc. and ask for any of those you might want at the same time. They'll probably only charge you once.



It just occurred to me that you should get under there and make sure the pigtail didn't just pop loose at the plug. You can crawl under, but if you take the wheel off and look around real good you'll see the sensor and wire/pigtail. If you follow the wire away from the wheel you'll find a plug somewhere.



Also, the wire goes through a rubber grommet that slips into a slot in the dust shield. If the grommet pops out of that slot I suppose the wire could get hung on the caliper assembly and eventually break. Did the light come on "immediately" after the accident or shortly thereafter (long enough to later bind/damage the wire, i. e. , right after you pulled away from the curb or later)?



Even if it drives fine, it would be wise to inspect any wheels that hit the curb, including the "actual" brake assemblies, tie rod, ball joints and steering knuckles... u-joints too if 4wd. The sensors usually come out with one, maybe two small bolts. If something hit it you should be able to tell once it's out.



I'm torn between guessing it's going to be "logical" or "mechanical" fault... something about both lights... wish I could remember that.



Wouldn't it be nice if...

"Hey Joe, I hit a curb the other day and my ABS light came on. Could you scan it for me?"



"Sure, where are you parked?"



Instead of...

"Well, it'll be $80 and I can't get you in until Wednesday... . next Wednesday, that is. My guy for that is all tied up. "

 

[jmy]

JPL

The ABS controller(computer) has codes set internally. You
cannot read those codes with an ODBII type scanner. You need to get a shop (usually dodge dealer) to read the codes with a DRB II / III scanner to determine the cause.

If your front wheel hit the curb hard you may have broken the ABS sensor or tone ring on that wheel.
You can take the front tire of and look at the sensor area. You may be able to see the damage.

When dealing with the ABS system it is usually worth the bucks to get a dodge shop to hook up their DRB II /III scanner to be certain what is causing the ABS coded error. Dodge shops around here charge $40 to $60 to hook up the DRB and read ABS codes.

 

[JPLB22]

Well it sounds like a trip to the dealer may be in order . For some reason I never get a comfortable feeling whenever I let a dealer touch my truck.



But before I take it to the dealer I will pull the driver front wheel off, and make a closer inspection for damage. Hopefully I can get to it tomorrow.



PBrauer... . The ABS light came on immediately when I hit the curb, it was accompanied with a chime. But I'm thinking the chime may have been for a lamp out signal, caused by the impact. The emergency brake light didn't come on until I pulled in the driveway and set the park brake, when I released the park brake the light stayed on.



Jeff

 

[PBrauer]

A chime should always accompany a MIL or ABS light. That's normal. In fact, I'd expect to hear the chime every time you start up or the first time you reach 15-20 mph after start up. There are several "patterns" that could narrow it down but jmy is right, it's probably best to just head to the dealer. The tone ring probably "scraped" the sensor and that will show up clearly in the codes. If it's a "logical" fault then the dealer can reset the flag and it either will or will not come back on as soon as you either restart it shortly after you drive away.



Keep in mind, if they reset the flag/code and there is (still) a solenoid problem, it may not go off (meaning the light might not come back on) until you drive it. ABS runs an initial set of tests at "key-on" then it cycles solenoids later as soon as you reach a certain speed. You can think of ABS as being in a constant state of diagnostics.



If you have a code for a bad sensor you might as well grab/order one while you're there. If any codes are solenoid related, make sure you restart the truck, then drive it around the block before either getting worried because the light is still on, or assuming it'll stay off. If the light comes back on while driving it might help the tech if you leave it running when you pull back in so it doesn't re-run the start up diagnostics.



Just remember, chances are probably less than 1% that you have anything worse than a broken sensor, with a slight chance of a damaged tone ring.



Did you by chance turn the truck off before you pulled it into the garage that night? It would make more sense if the "brake" light came on following a start up. I can't think of any reason for it to coincide with setting and releasing the brake. Normally if you start the truck, leave the brake set, then put it in drive, the brake light would flash. If the switch over the pedal was stuck you'd know it by seeing that. Then again, I'm probably not as smart as I probably am trying to make you think I think I am.



Sensors are in the $50 catagory and you can easily replace one in the driveway with common/small tools (someone correct me if it's burried in or under the caliper assy. or if the plug is hard to find). "Book" labor at the dealer should be well under an hour. They might even forgive the diagnostic fee if you let them throw in the sensor.



Note - somehow I thought you had an '06, so some of that stuff about the brake light flashing might not apply. I always struggle with the too much, too little info dilema in forums... in case that's not obvious.

 

[jmorse]

Well, I've started and drove the truck 4 times since I bumped the curb, and the emergency brake light and ABS light are still on. Is this something that can clear itself ? Or must it be cleared by a scanner ?



And yes, my ABS is not working. I tested it with a panic stop the other night, no chatter.



Jeff

When my '99 ABS & brake light came on , I simply unplugged the wheel speed sensors ,jacked the vehicle up and used a multimeter to measure the voltage output while spinning the wheel by hand. I found the right front had a much different reading than the left, so I replaced it and all was well. I did the same when the rear one failed.



Jim

 

[JPLB22]

I finally had a little time to pull the driver front tire. There wasn't any visible damage of and kind that I could see. I was able to find the ABS wire and make sure it was still plugged in by the dust guard. But I wasn't able to see the sensor itself or the tone ring. On my '03, the sensor and tone ring seem to be in a position that I would have to remove the rotor to get to them.



I really know nothing about the front end of these trucks. What is involved in removing the front rotor ?



I will hopefully be able to take the truck to the dealer this coming week and get the codes scanned.



Jeff

 

[Superglide]

I had an ABS problem very much like yours. Started with a small bump then driving in the snow later that day. ABS light came on and stayed on after that. One thing you might check is the fuse in the ABS system. Turns out, that was all that was wrong with mine. First scan turned up nine codes then cleared. Second scan turned up two codes relating to the sensor. Once they traced it back, they found the blown fuse. Trouble-shooting that ABS system takes time and $$$.

 

[Matt400]

38 - Wheel Speed Mismatch

I got this one the other day, pretty weird cuz for it to set it has to see 3 or more speed sensors not matching while traveling 10-40 mph (which I was) for a period of time. 3 or more seems awfully odd to me. I cleared it and it has not come back. Only thing I can think of is my PacBrake module being tapped into a speed ckt and causing the trouble.