ABS Light

[RammerJam]

Last night was the coldest down here in a while. 34 degrees. So the Grid Heater actually had to work a little bit. Cranked up, put it on fast idle for a minute while I fastened my seat belt, etc.

BTW, I keep my batteries fairly well charged. It only takes about 20 minutes for them to show fully charged. I don't know if that means anything or not.......

Noticed the ABS Light and traction control light next to the ABS warning light.

Drove it to the VA, came out of there and started the truck, hoping it would be gone. It wasn't. But before I got out of the parking lot, it had gone.

Came home and put my $25 reader on it and -- Nothing. No stored codes, nothing.

What's up with that? Anybody? Batteries.......?? Worse???

 

[Ltngdrvr]

Doubt your $25 code reader reads ABS codes.

Could be a bad wheel sensor, or was just dirty and cleared itself.

I wouldn't worry too much unless it becomes a permanent situation.

 

[bcbender]

My ABS / BRAKE warning light used to come on and go off frequently.. I agree, its most likely a wheel sensor and since my was fairly intermittent, I never worried to much about it, just glad it was "off" when I traded it in..

 

[RammerJam]

Doubt your $25 code reader reads ABS codes.

Could be a bad wheel sensor, or was just dirty and cleared itself.

I wouldn't worry too much unless it becomes a permanent situation.

Thanks. I was just wondering because I know the grid heater draws a lot of juice. I also am aware of the reputation of the OEM batteries.

My Sam's doesn't carry the AGM Battery(H7) in our size, wonder if I should try to get them to bring them in? AGM batteries don't seem to be a hot item down here....

The regular Duracell ones (94r) from Sam's are $147 ea, which seems like a pretty good price. God knows how long they been sitting.

Thing is, I charged both batteries Tuesday. Then after I started it this morning, it took about 30 minutes to get to the VA and when I came back out and started the truck, the lights were still on. Then about 2 minutes later, while driving out of the parking lot, they both went out.

 

[RammerJam]

Went out to start the truck this morning, grid heater turned on (it got down to 42 last night!!), started it. No lights, no nothing. Ran fine.

I wonder...... You know, our alternators tend not to start working for several seconds, maybe an entire minute. And between the grid heater pulling the batteries, down, starting it pulling the batteries down, and no alternator -- I wonder if that's not why the ABS and TC Lights kicked on??

I also recall the truck running a little 'rough' yesterday morning for a few seconds. Enough for me to take notice. It might have been the fan but I don't think so.

I don't live up North so this is all new and unusual to me. Cold weather I mean. It's 78 and not a cloud in the sky right now. No wind either.

Just thought I'd follow up

 

[bcbender]

Grid heater pulls alot of juice.. made my lights, a/c heatet fan.. everything dim when cycling on / off

 

[kmcdonough]

I had a similar problem about a year ago. ABS, ESC, rear park assist lights were on and truck would not go into 4WD. Turned out to be chaffed wires in harness under the drivers side that run along the frame. Got it repaired under warranty. I am having the same problem again now but it comes and goes. I am thinking it is probably a wheel sensor that is getting dirty from the sanded roads this time year up here in the northeast.

 

[EDankievitch]

When my battery’s start to go bad I’ll get all kinds of very strange messages on the dash at start up. That said my friends truck was showing an ABS lamp figured it was a bad sensor. Sensor was ok but wheel hub bearings were on their way out. Hope these thoughts help.

 

[RammerJam]

When my battery’s start to go bad I’ll get all kinds of very strange messages on the dash at start up. That said my friends truck was showing an ABS lamp figured it was a bad sensor. Sensor was ok but wheel hub bearings were on their way out. Hope these thoughts help.

It's a 2017 with 25k miles. I hope it's not hub bearings. That would be an indictment of FCA's QC.

But thanks. It's something to look at.

When do you guys re-pack your bearings? 30, 40, 50, 75k??

 

[EDankievitch]

I’ve got Spyntec free wheeling hubs . That said I just replaced an re packed the bearings at 146k miles. I stay out of deep water. My races were shot. Could see where the rollers were running actually wore a grove in the cups. Never saw that happen before. Chinese Timkin’s ? Running SKF bearings now.

 

[Ltngdrvr]

It's a 2017 with 25k miles. I hope it's not hub bearings. That would be an indictment of FCA's QC.

But thanks. It's something to look at.

When do you guys re-pack your bearings? 30, 40, 50, 75k??

There's nothing to repack on your truck, it has sealed bearings in it.
If the bearing is bad, you just replace the hub.
But, as I said above, if the light went out and hasn't come back on, quit worrying about it.

 

[bcbender]

Some guys pull the sensor and stick grease down the hole, seems like a lot of work with little benefit. I would worry more about getting crap in the bearing that the little amount of fresh grease you will get. Rock Auto has Timken unit bearings for $120, that is what I did and they came with new sensors... But I had 160K on the clock when I did them.

 

[RammerJam]

Some guys pull the sensor and stick grease down the hole, seems like a lot of work with little benefit. I would worry more about getting crap in the bearing that the little amount of fresh grease you will get. Rock Auto has Timken unit bearings for $120, that is what I did and they came with new sensors... But I had 160K on the clock when I did them.

The grease is a shipping dust cap. Nothing more. It makes some little bit of sense to have it and to keep it filled; if you're in the mood.

I am not.