ABS problems at 139k miles

[WoodChuck]

The symptoms are ABS and brake light are both on and the ABS pump or motor wont turn off even with the key off and out.

I did a search on Google and it seems that this is quite common on Chevy's and other brands too.

I ordered a new Hydralic Control Unit (HCU) today, the complete assembly sells for around $400 at the dealer. It will require the use of a DRB III to initialize and test to bleed system.

 

[WoodChuck]

Anybody else heard of or had this happen? I got the new HCU today but think I'm going to separate the electronics module and try just replacing that.

 

[JZellers]

I just had the same problem at 38K miles. I replaced the ABS controller ($300 shipped) and it fixed the problem. However, the ABS light is now slowly flashing, but everything works. Has anyone had this symptom, and is it something that has to be corrected with a DRBIII?



Thanks!



Joe

 

[WoodChuck]

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...scussions/205598-abs-cab-hcu-replacement.html

 

[WoodChuck]

The post above is a link. Click on it for more info. if your ABS light is flashing it isn't working.

 

[JZellers]

Actually, the ABS does work because I tried it, but that doesn't mean it's working properly. . I just replaced the electronic half, not the hydraulics. I also noticed the mpg is way off on the display. I thought I read somewhere that the tire revs/mile need to be set in the ABS module, which would explain it. I guess it's off to the dealer to have them re-program it.

 

[WoodChuck]

I think a Smarty might do it. It has a feature for adjusting tire size in the ABS. What did it take to get the controller (CAB) off the HCU? I tried with my new one gently and it didn't want to come apart easily.

 

[JZellers]

I set the tire size with my Smarty last night, which took care of the mpg part. After the controller swap, the tire size was zero but the speedo(probably not accurate at all) still worked. The ABS light still flashes, however. I did some digging on another forum and it appears that in addition to the tire size, the VIN needs to be set. Supposedly, this can only be done with a DRBIII or StarScan, so it's still off to the dealer...

 

[WoodChuck]

I rented the DRB III and was going nuts trying to figure out how to "program" the unit. A friendly tech at the local dealer told me to set the pinion factor which is simply telling the unit what rear end you have (i just remembered that part) and tire size. My dealer wanted $95 to hook up the DRB III to diagnose my problem but some dealers will do it without a charge.

 

[Paladin1911]

I had mine go out and replaced under warantee. I forgot all about that! I remember I shut the truck off and the ABS motor was still humming. If I remember right the dealer said they normally charged $1300 for the R&R of the HCU...

 

[WoodChuck]

I had mine go out and replaced under warantee. I forgot all about that! I remember I shut the truck off and the ABS motor was still humming. If I remember right the dealer said they normally charged $1300 for the R&R of the HCU...

WOW $1,300, what a rip. I paid $300 for the complete ABS (HCU and CAB).

 

[Paladin1911]

Yeah, that was at Lithia Dodge in Anchorage, Alaska. Thank god it was covered under warantee! I about crapped when they said it was around $1300!

 

[JZellers]

Update: I just got back from the dealer - $85, but it's fixed. Not bad considering I saved $100 just on the module and they would have charged labor to install it too. Now if only those DRBIII's were reasonably priced...

 

[WoodChuck]

I;ve seen used DRB IIIs on E-bay for 2k.