Abs problems

[SPoe]

Currently my 1993 Ram D250 is in great condition but the ABS and the parking brake light stay on, i know how to reset it by disconnecting the battery for 5 seconds but that doesn't solve the problem, i bought a Chilton's books when i got the truck and it says to ground the RWAL diagnostic connector, the RWAL control module is behind the glove compartment and I thought i grounded the connector which is supposed to make the ABS light flash a number of times to give me a fault code, because I'm not sure which connector to ground, because theres about 14 connectors, i looked for the black wire and grounded it, nothing happened, so i failed at getting the fault code, i checked all the connectors to the speed sensor and the hydraulic control valve assembly and
I didn't find anything loose or any of the connectors dirty, so my question is Has anyone encountered this problem before, and does anyone have any suggestions on what I should do?

 

[PToombs]

You can unplug the gray box behind the glove box. That's the ABS module. Is your pedal spongy? Most of us have bypassed the valve on the frame above the rear axle. Better firm pedal, no lites, better stopping ability.

Other than that, I can't help you much. IMHO, bypassing the valve is the best mod on the truck. Some guys have no problems with theirs, and they are stock.

 

[dpuckett]

Have you tried flushing the brake system? Getting the old fluid out may help, it may not.



I'd vote to bypass/ eliminate the ABS valve- our brake systems were designed in the 70s without the ABS, so it WILL do fine without it.



We knicked a brake line on my truck when swapping beds, and got out the flaring tool kit and Pete did his thing. Oo. Oo. I had to relearn how to stop- I locked them up at the end of Jermey's driveway.



DP

 

[KOG]

Mine is running with ABS unplugged and will get the valve bypassed soon. Already stops much better than with ABS.

 

[SPoe]

My pedal isn't spongy at all, its solid as a rock, i have no problems stopping just that the abs and e-brake lights come on and stay on. i tried unpluging the abs module and only the abs light stays off the e-brake light stays on and the brake isn't even set. no i haven't tried flushing the brake system but i recently put new rear shoes and new wheel cylinders (because they were leaking) because the abs light was on and, but not flushing the entire system. If i were to bypass the abs valve how would i do that?

 

[JLEONARD]

E brake light is activated by the switch mounted under the dash. Notoriuos for getting/being out of adjustment or having a broken bracket. Look under there and I'm sure you can resolve it.

 

[PToombs]

If you want to bypass the valve, 2 ways.

1, search on here, there is a post with 2 fittings you can get from NAPA to plug the 2 lines together. (to the valve, and out of the valve)

2, I was replacing the brake line, so I just went directly to the hose on the bracket.

The fittings on the valve are not normal size line thread, so the adapters are needed.

I agree with Jay, sounds like the switch on the pedal is loose or bad.

 

[JLEONARD]

Wish I knew about bypassing the valve... my son just replaced all my brake lines in October. Oh well.



Yea, every once in a while I have to "help" the e brake spring stay up against the switch... . Next time I'm doing the Tugboat fix... . (duct tape):-laf

 

[dseabaugh]

mine did the same thing. first it takes longer than 5 seconds disconnecting batteries. have to disconnect both batteries. turn on headlights w batteries disconnected to discharge capacitor. @nd do a good job of bleeding your brakes all the way around. I bled mine and fixed it. Have $500 worth of rebuilt abs valve still in box that I orderd from $^ealer that I apparently don't need.

 

[SPoe]

you have a 97 ram which has two batteries, mines the first gen so it only has one, theres no spot for a second battery, thank all of you for the help, im glad all of you could be so much help, ill let yall know how everything goes once its fixed

 

[tugboatphil]

... Next time I'm doing the Tugboat fix... . (duct tape):-laf

Excuse me, Mr. Leonard! I don't repair EVERYTHING with duct tape... . some stuff is too greasy to get it to stick. I also use baling wire.

 

[JCrank]

Talking about resetting by disconnecting the battery. What about the switch (?) that is on the proportioning valve near the master cylinder. If I'm not mistaken the factory service manual refers to resetting this switch using a special tool which looks like some type of clip contraption in the photo. The manual also said not to use anything but the tool as you could damage the switch. I looked in the factory servioe manual before changing my master cylinder.

 

[PToombs]

Talking about resetting by disconnecting the battery. What about the switch (?) that is on the proportioning valve near the master cylinder. If I'm not mistaken the factory service manual refers to resetting this switch using a special tool which looks like some type of clip contraption in the photo. The manual also said not to use anything but the tool as you could damage the switch. I looked in the factory servioe manual before changing my master cylinder.

Yup, that could be making the "brake" lite come on too.

Not that I would do it, but you could cut that wire.