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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission AC clutch

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) AFC housing gasket

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My AC quit all of a sudden, seems to be the clutch. It has power to it but does not hook-up tight. Has anyone herd of removing shims to make up for wear in the clutch? I can't find the clutch seperatly, the all want $400 for the complete compresson assembly. Thanks in advance, Bill
 
Edit. Closer inspection, Now I see the problem, the rivets in the clutch let go. All I need is a new ac clutch. Does anyone know where I can buy just the clutch? Every place I've checked wants to sell you the whole compressor. Thanks again, Bill
 
I bought a new clutch assembly for mine from the dealer a few years ago. I paid $153. 30 jobber price. I saw no point in opening up the system for a pump when it was just fine and still is. Two of the three spring straps on the front flange had broken on mine.
 
I had a problem with mine a year ago on my '96. One of the leaf springs had broken. I found two or three used clutch disks at a local junk yard for 6 or 7 bucks each. Mine came from Jeep Cherokees with the six cylinder engine. Be sure to take the old clutch disk to compare to the new one. I was lucky as some jeeps had fairly new rebuilt compressors on them with new clutches. The compressors and pulleys are different but the clutch disks are the same. There are at least three different clutch disk designs out there so be sure to compare. I replaced the old with the new and adjusted the shims for minimum gap between the disk and pulley. I made a puller so that I would not damage the compressor (check the Sanden service manual). Easy 5 min. remove and replace.
 
Why would you pay 150. 00 for a new clutch when Auto Parts Fast at RockAuto has new compressors with clutches for 200. 00. Your compressor is over ten years old and is due to be replaced some time soon anyways. If you're planning on keeping the truck, I would go for the full monty, for 50. 00 and the cost of recharging. But that me, maybe not you. Just my . 02.
 
I found an AC clutch for a 99 diesel Ram for approx $149 at:

MoparPartz.com

I personally haven't R&R an AC compressor clutch (especially with the compressor still attached to the engine), but here are the Sanden service instructions for clutch R&R, starting on page 16:

http://www.sanden.com/images/SD_Service_Guide_Rev.2.pdf

Hope this helps.

the site has changed here is the new address, thanks for the reference!

http://www.sanden.com/objects/SD_Service_Guide_Rev.2.pdf
 
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I have gone through 2 clutches, both were purchased from the Dodge dealer. They were not cheap ($150-175 ish) but I felt better going back with OEM clutch vs an aftermarket clutch + compressor. Local mechanic / AC guy tells me the compressors are tanks. I believe him as mine has the full 395,000 miles on it, in Texas (hot place)



The aftermarket replacement compressors more than likely come from China. They are advertised as "new"... but new from where? who? New does not mean "new from Dodge". I'm certain I will have to go that route one day, the thing can't last forever.



Good luck,
 
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I have gone through 2 clutches, both were purchased from the Dodge dealer. They were not cheap ($150-175 ish) but I felt better going back with OEM clutch vs an aftermarket clutch + compressor. Local mechanic / AC guy tells me the compressors are tanks. I believe him as mine has the full 395,000 miles on it, in Texas (hot place)

The aftermarket replacement compressors more than likely come from China. They are advertised as "new"... but new from where? who? New does not mean "new from Dodge". I'm certain I will have to go that route one day, the thing can't last forever.

Good luck,

Texis, thanks for the input. Iwould like to go that route, but so far I have not found a replacement clutch for my 2006. I have heard they are out there, but no like so far in finding one.
 
Wow, old thread! Anyway my truck now has 412k miles (not driving it much anymore) and has had plenty of A/C use and the original compressor is still quiet and working great. I still feel it's better to keep your OE compressor and replace the clutch. I agree that a replacement compressor may not be of the same quality as the OE unit although I don't know this as fact. You also add the potential for system contamination if not careful when opening it up.
 
I couldn't find the clutch only for my 2004 so changed the entire compressor with a new Denso, TDR Issue 77, p. 89. The nut is attached to the shaft which only turns when the clutch is activated; the pulley spins on a sealed bearing that is pressed onto a nose on the casing. Therefore, the serpentine belt won't hold the shaft from turning when the nut turns.
 
Super! I may have to try that. Not having done this before, can you leave the serpenpine belt on to keep the pully from turning while you loosen the nut?
Navyjoe, there are three holes in the face of the clutch plate and they make a tool which is like a three pin spanner to hold it while removing the nut. If you buy the whole clutch assy. you should go ahead and change the pulley/bearing and the coil. They are held in place by some snap rings and usually come off without a lot of force. bg
 
I couldn't find the clutch only for my 2004 so changed the entire compressor with a new Denso, TDR Issue 77, p. 89. The nut is attached to the shaft which only turns when the clutch is activated; the pulley spins on a sealed bearing that is pressed onto a nose on the casing. Therefore, the serpentine belt won't hold the shaft from turning when the nut turns.

Thanks Joe,
Sounds like you can replace the clutch with out having to remove the belt although I suspect it is easier to do the job with the belt removed. The belt is 7 years old so it is probably a good idea to replace it anyway although it appeares to be in excelent shape.
 
Navyjoe, there are three holes in the face of the clutch plate and they make a tool which is like a three pin spanner to hold it while removing the nut. If you buy the whole clutch assy. you should go ahead and change the pulley/bearing and the coil. They are held in place by some snap rings and usually come off without a lot of force. bg

OK, looks like I need to buy a wrench and give it a try. I've gotten a few quotes to replace the compressor and they all hover around $1000. Worse case I mess up a non-working clutch and have to replace the compressor replaced anyway. You mentioned the snap rings for the bearing and coil. Can that be done with the compressor still bolted to the truck or would I have to unbolt it and drop it down to get to them?
 
It can be done in place if you can get the room to get the snap ring pliers/etc in there. The fan shroud will probably be the most in the way. bg PS I just went out and looked at mine, close quarters to be sure, looks like there might be enough room if the shroud can come out. bg
 
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It can be done in place if you can get the room to get the snap ring pliers/etc in there. The fan shroud will probably be the most in the way. bg PS I just went out and looked at mine, close quarters to be sure, looks like there might be enough room if the shroud can come out. bg

Thanks BG, really appreciate the assistance!
 
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