AC Problems. R132 present, Clutch Turning, Hot Air.

[glmoore001]

Gary, What State are you located ?. Off hand it appears over charged. You could try bleeding back to where you were unless some body has a better idea. Starting to wonder if it was slightly over then. As I stated earlier R134 is very finicky with over/under charging.

Dave

Hi Dave, I am in Illinois, very close to the Wisconsin Line.
When I bleed, do I bleed out of Low Side or High Side?
Just open needle valve at gauge and break the corresponding line where it connects with gauge set?

 

[Wayne M.]

I think it’s time to get a charging station involved.

 

[glmoore001]

I think it’s time to get a charging station involved.

That is probably the best thing to do. I would like to give the dye time to work so I can tell if I have leak in the engine compartment. I do not think I put enough in the first time, I added more with the last can.

 

[DavidC]

That is the problem with 134, gauges are ok but 134 does not play well or cool like 12 did. You could run low or high with 12 and it did not really care as long as the compressor was turning. Since your temp is 10+ higher than it was it sounds like it is over charged. Did you get a message in your TDR inbox ?. The procedure recommended with 134 is to vacuum and recover then using a scale recharge to the factory numbers. All of that said I have added to my system using gauges and depending on the ambient temp I add enough to where the clutch is cycling maybe 2-3 times a minute and check the temp at the register. On a cool day 80-85 I may see 45 at the register, on a hot day It could be 50-55 at over 100 ambient and the clutch never cycles. All of those numbers are subjective and you get a feel after a while what you need to do. The recourse is recover, vacuum and recharge. I actually bought a scale to measure the amount added or charged.

Dave

 

[glmoore001]

Well, I do not want to leave this thread hanging. I recovered the refrigerant in the system and put the proper amount back in. I am down to 42 degrees at 82 ambient. I am not going to try for better, that is just fine.
I did not find any traces of dye in or around the engine compartment so any leak is most likely under the dash.
When I do my dashtop, the condenser and the heat exchanger plus the blend doors will be replaced at that time.
Thanks for the advice and the AC Lessons! Gary Moore

 

[DavidC]

They make a sniffer that I use that has a flexible wand that can be inserted up the condensate drain that would tell you if you have a leak. Honestly being your truck is 17 years old I do not think you really have a problem unless it becomes repetitive. I had the dye in my system that never showed but the sniffer picked up a small leak on the low pressure port. I changed the shrader and solved the problem. I also changed the high pressure when the ball would not reseal after connecting gauges.
In case you want to spend money
https://smile.amazon.com/Inficon-TE...8325878&sr=8-6&keywords=inficon+leak+detector
I really like these things as you are sure if you have a leak or not instead of throwing parts at it.

Dave