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Add tank to Pac Brake

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The other EB thread got me to thinking... I didn't get the optional air tank for my Pac and would like to add one.

If I'm looking at things correctly, I would just plumb the tank into the plugged fitting in the middle of this pic right?





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you would plumb it on the LH port that is plugged off, just behind the pressure switch but before the solenoid. , The other side of the tee so to speak
 
You need to be-careful with the rib extension when adding plumbing,I have broken that piece before,I would updated the compressor and re-plumb.
 
I sold pacbrake for almost 20 years, please don't use a truck tank, as the duty cycle of this compressor is such that it's not designed to pump that large of a tank.

You plumb the tank as mentioned above... where the air from the pump and tank can be monitored by the pressure switch... If you live in an area where the truck will sit outside and it will freeze put the tank close to the engine so that the heat will melt the ice in the air line and keep the tank thawed. . Also consider draining the water from the tank annually, I usually do my trucks when we check them for winter use...

I run a set of air bags, and air horns off my pump and tank... besides the exhaust brake. .

Hope this has helped...
 
Thanks everyone, that's what I thought.
Jim, I was going to install a 3~5 gallon aluminum air tank under the truck. It wouldn't get used much so the pump wouldn't cycle much but I would use it in the event of a flat or maybe for air horns. Your saying that filling a tank this size would be hard on the pump? Seems like all the short cycling is hard on it too.
Thx for your input.
 
This small pump only has a 15% duty cycle. . so in one hour, so it should run no longer than about 9 minutes an hour... if you could charge the tank you suggest with an air line than you'd be OK but I bet it would take this small pump the better part of 30-40 min of running time to charge your tank...

Here's a way to test what's happening. . take your point and shoot temperature tester and test the head temperature... If it exceeds about 120-140* you've got enough heat to do damage... its all about the heat as the compressed air is passed through the compressor head...

The problem that exists in most cases is that you develop a small leak and over a day or two the tank goes to zero... a couple of months of this... and I promise you'll damage the compressor... .

My system that powers my brake, air horn and air bags is the small tank provided by pacbrake... I do understand that if you stand on the air horn for any length of time you'll drain the tank...

BTW - if you use this for air bags, put a one way valve between the air supply and the regulator, so that a tank, pump failure won't allow the air bags to deflate and damage them... its a simple 1/2 lb back check available at most hose supply companies... like Spokane House of Hose...

Hope this helps... .
 
I used my Pacbrake compressor to air up 4 37" yokos from 15psi to 45psi, took about an hour to do all 4 and the compressor was smoking, definitely not a heavy duty compressor but works great for what its intended to do!
 
I used my Pacbrake compressor to air up 4 37" yokos from 15psi to 45psi, took about an hour to do all 4 and the compressor was smoking, definitely not a heavy duty compressor but works great for what its intended to do!



So are you still running that compressor? That would be a hell of a testimony!
 
wellll I aired up those tires 3 years ago, about a year after the compressor started blowing the fuse, I pulled the head off it, flipped over the piston ring, lubed it with eng oil, and ran it another year till the truck got totaled, sold the truck to a buddy and its still working for him so ya it is!
 
LOL that's a great story!

Jim, thx for all the info. I think you've saved me from wasting time and money on a system that just isn't robust. I may pick up one of the little Pac tanks just so the pump doesn't cycle so much.

Scotty
 
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