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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) adding antifreeze to fp gauge???????????

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) HY35 to a HX40 ??

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Go to a farm supply store, Farm@Fleet around here, they will seel you a seringe without the needle, needles come in a seperate bag.
 
fp gauge

Being my first day on here thought I would throw in my two cents. When I installed my Dipricol they said to fill the gauge side of the isolater with anti freeze if the tubing was less than 6' from the gauge to the isolater. Then you just start it up and bleed the air out at the back of the gauge. I used Howes diesel fuel additive in mine since I wasn't too crazy about sucking antifreeze into my VP44 if the isolater ever broke. Hope this helps.
 
I wouldn't worry a lot about the isolator breaking. If it did the positive FP would push fuel into your gauge. If it did back flow it would be so diluted by the fuel it would still burn off. Considering when I did mine there was less that 1cc of antifreeze in the isolator & tubing. When you fill the cab/gauge side of the isolator consider doing it with the truck running, this will fill the diaphram with fuel , requiring even less antifreeze.



Another tip is to fill it from the cab side with the syringe method. If your guage is higher than the isolator, air will naturally rise up towards the gauge. It took a couple of times, over a week or so to purge 95% of the air out from the guage side. Actually 50% air in the line won't skew the reading much considering it's only pushing 15 psi with 1cc of volume.



Just my . 02. Whichever way you decide to go a FP Guage is worth 1000% more than none, if it saves you a VP44 !!!



Cheers,

Matt
 
I used a anitfreeze tester, just pulled in some 50/50 in the tester took the line off the gage lossened the end at the isolater held a steady pressure on the bulb until no air in the tubing, with the bulb held tightend the ferrle nut and then hooked it up at the gage no air and the gage works great. hope this helped. Spitnick
 
MKizziah said:
I wouldn't worry a lot about the isolator breaking. If it did the positive FP would push fuel into your gauge. If it did back flow it would be so diluted by the fuel it would still burn off. Considering when I did mine there was less that 1cc of antifreeze in the isolator & tubing. When you fill the cab/gauge side of the isolator consider doing it with the truck running, this will fill the diaphram with fuel , requiring even less antifreeze.



Another tip is to fill it from the cab side with the syringe method. If your guage is higher than the isolator, air will naturally rise up towards the gauge. It took a couple of times, over a week or so to purge 95% of the air out from the guage side. Actually 50% air in the line won't skew the reading much considering it's only pushing 15 psi with 1cc of volume.



Just my . 02. Whichever way you decide to go a FP Guage is worth 1000% more than none, if it saves you a VP44 !!!



Cheers,

Matt



I disagree strongly. My isolator was not up to the job. It failed within 4 months and my VP ingested all the antifreeze that was in the line. Not good. Isolator failures are actually quite common. I found mine when the Fp readings were going crazy-- 28-32 psi sometimes!



I now run a direct line of diesel to my gauge. NO leaks, no complaints, wish I had done it this way the first time.



Once the isolator fails, the antifreeze may or may not be diluted when it hits the VP. But the idea of coolant running into the VP doesn't sit well with me.



Justin
 
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