Adding Ball Valve to Bypass Oil Filtration System?

[Buffalo]

I, recently, purchased an Oilguard Bypass Filtration System for my '03, 3500.



I'm thinking of installing a ball valve between the stock full flow filter housing (where you tap for the feed to the bypass) & the Oilguard. The ball valves seem to have a silicone or plastic housing that the "ball" sits in. My question is, will this silicone/plastic housing hold up to the heat of the motor oil?



I would like to do this so that I can block off the flow to the bypass, if needed. I'd like to be able to isolate the bypass system in the event of a problem with it.



Is there a type of valve that would work better in this application?



Thanks.



Joe F. (Buffalo)

 

[DavidC]

I carry the plug that came out of the housing just in case of hose failure etc. In my opinion I would not add the ball valve with hot oil circulating thru the system. It could lead to problems you would other wise not have such as a leaking stem, plastic breaking clogging the system etc. Maybe contact Oilguard and ask what they could recommend or maybe they have a valve.



Dave

 

[steved]

Would it not depend on the grade of the valve?? I know some that can handle steam all day long without issue...



steved

 

[NJones]

Steve, funny you asked this. Today I was thinking about putting a valve of some sort on my Frantz when I install it. Like you, I like the idea of just being able to turn a valve off in event of trouble/leak and fixing it at home. If you would; pm me of your solution in case I miss it if you post it. Thanks

 

[rweis]

Solid brass ball valves come to mind.



I have a RACOR bypass system which is much like the Oilguard. I had a 1/4 npt bung welded to the bottom of the steel cannister so I can drain the cannister prior to changing the filter. Without draining the cannister before changing the filter it gets really messy.



Bob Weis

 

[Mhannink]

i would think a good metal valv would work. imo