Adding extra clutches to a Dana 80 Trac-Lok

[B KIRK]

I posted on this a while back. Can't scan a exploded view of the Dana 80 Trac-Lok, but have one of the Dana 70 Powr-Lok. Also a diagram on how to arrange clutch packs for better grip. The clutch packs with lining on the friction plates wear off to quick if set tight. To cure this, you need to add more friction modifier. Now it's to slippery and loose. Use the clutch packs that are all steel, no lining. The diagrams show how to arrange plates from tight to loose. Also, the 60, 70, and 80 Powr-Loc use the same clutch pack. The 70 and 80 share the same spider gears, that's why it's the weak spot in an 80.



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Brad

 

[tarussell]

Chipstien - You should have a P/L in your 70 .



Brad - Excellant info on the stack orders. I think this is what Speedo was describing earlier. I agree with you on the all steel clutches and the other ones wearing out to quickly when stacked tight. Another similarity between the 60/70 P/L's and the 80 P/L & T/L's is the clutch disc's and friction plates's. All of the 80 T/L's that I have seen use the all steel versions. Do you know of a part # for the 60/70 P/L ( dished )clutch & plate pack that is all steel?

From what I have found you get what Ya' get - all steel and friction material use the same part# ... ... ...



TIA , Thomas

 

[B KIRK]

What I have found is that if I order a clutch pack for an 80's style I get an all steel pack. Never paid attention to the part number. Shop is closed today, will try to find out if numbers are different for older vrs. newer style. Speedo, I put up pics to show what you said about stacking order. Pic shows a little better what you were explaining. Hope this helps.



Brad

 

[Speedo]

Pictures

B Kirk, Thanks for posting the pictures. I recently went to Win XP

and my scanner is no longer compatible so I tried to give the

stacks in writing, but a picture says a lot more.



Gus

 

[Chipstien]

Can I change the order of my disks or are the 70's set up "properly".

 

[tarussell]

Chipstien - From what I can tell your P/L is not stacked like the above pictures. The disc's and plates are alternated but ( according to the DC service manual ) all of your friction plates are flat and all of your clutch disc's are dished. I don't know if that is better or not ?????

It seems that you do have five friction surfaces on each disc/plate pack and that is similar to the most aggressive pattern. Your 70 P/L stack pattern goes like this :

( 1 ) clutch ring

( 1 ) friction plate

( 1 ) dished clutch disc

( 1 ) friction plate

( 1 ) dished clutch disc

( 1 ) friction plate

than the case flange half.

On the examples above they use a dished friction plate and one of the dished clutch plates for pre-load. I am trying to find out what is better - more flat surface contact area or more pre-load pressure from the dished plates.

On all of the new clutch pack kits from Spicer that I have gotten , they include one dished clutch disc and one dished friction plate. Maybe some of the auto transmission builder experts could share some wisdom on what friction surfaces are the best for grip ?????



I don't know if this is right or not but I am going to use the Dana 80 all steel clutch disc's and the P/L dished friction plates in my Dana 60 P/L in the front of my K-30 . I am trying to make lots of pre-load and make it durable since it goes off-road a lot - I'll use it as a test mule and keep Ya' posted on if it works well and doesn't cause any abnormal problems.



Thomas

 

[BRI7070]

TTTBringing

Bringing this up to see if there is any new info.



So if i understand this correctly I could put in a factory LSD in my 01 2500 auto D70 3. 54, restack the disks in the unit and have a deasent LSD?

Correct me if I am wrong. I have an open unit now and I hate it!!!!!!!

 

[Oasis-3]

Look Tazzen

TTT

Good info for "tazzen" to look at.



Good Luck

Cliff

 

[Texas Diesel]

We did this yesterday, arranged all the plates correctly and swapped one disk for a clutch plate (whatever). So far no problem on pavement but it will scuff on loose dirt in sharp turns if I give it some fuel, I believe this is normal. I have a P/L with all steel plates.



We added two bottles of modifier and 6 quarts of

Valvoline SynPower 75W-90 synthetic (magHytec, dont know why it didnt hold 8 ) , Mobil 1 was $12+ per quart, bye bye Mobil 1.



Anyone else done this mod have problems on wet or icy roads?



TIA

 

[willyslover]

why 2 bottles ? because that is what the manual says or do to testing in fig 8 turns... . reason I ask is that you can over modify by just adding bottles

 

[Texas Diesel]

It a consensus decision between myself and the mechanic.

 

[Hohn]

Gary - No additive at all . Valvoline Synthetic 90 weight. I don't tow that much so I don't run 140 weight.



I was going to use the " standard " amount of additive but it seems to have very good manners on the road so I did not add any. The clutches seemed fine with no unusual wear on them after 11,000 miles. I will be checking everything out again this spring so I will get another peak at how everything is doing; but so far all is well and I am getting confident that it is going to stay that way.



What are your thoughts on the additive ???



Thomas

FYI-- All valvoline synthetic gear oils comes with Fiction modifier already in them from the factory. Unless you bought it in a 5 gallon pail (the only way to get Valvoline syn without modifier), you DO have modifier in the pumpkin.



JLH

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Is there any way to switch out a Trak-Lok for a Power Lok?? Where would you come up with the parts?



Vaughn

 

[sshelly]

This is good info. Stuart

 

[jkern]

just read the whole post... some great info!! i do see one topic that came up but wasn't really addressed: After restacking when turning the popping sound and "catch and release" feel like that of a locker... what causes it? is it normal? or is something getting torn up?



i restacked mine about 2 years and 12k miles ago and it snaps and pops like crazy... even added more modifier, didn't change anything.



jkern



PS i didn't use a spreader to do mine... the case was seated firmly, but came out easily, just observed all the shims and washers and put it back the same way.

 

[steved]

just read the whole post... some great info!! i do see one topic that came up but wasn't really addressed: After restacking when turning the popping sound and "catch and release" feel like that of a locker... what causes it? is it normal? or is something getting torn up?



i restacked mine about 2 years and 12k miles ago and it snaps and pops like crazy... even added more modifier, didn't change anything.



jkern



PS i didn't use a spreader to do mine... the case was seated firmly, but came out easily, just observed all the shims and washers and put it back the same way.

The clutches are probably sliding past one another... if LSD additive did not cure it, I'd suspect the clutches might be damaged by now. I hope you soaked the clutches in LSD additive before installing them??



I have never needed a spreader to remove the center chunk from any Dana axle.



steved

 

[ToolManTimTaylor]

I have never needed a spreader to remove the center chunk from any Dana axle.



steved

Steve not to sound snyde but does that include the Dana 80 Hybred? I allways thought you needed one.

 

[steved]

Steve not to sound snyde but does that include the Dana 80 Hybred? I allways thought you needed one.

Popped the center chunk out of my dad's D80 hybrid... used a strap on the carrier and a larger pine board (soft)... one or two jerks and it was out. Install took a couple blows of a large dead-blow hammer. That was at around ~125k, then again at ~235k... there was no noticeable difference in the removal/install effort in those times (not a high wearing axle).



A case spreader usually gets people into more trouble... they tend to over do things and stretch the case; or they apply way to much pre-load that causes bearing failure early. You do not need a ton of pre-load on the carrier bearings.



I have taken over a dozen Dana axles apart, ranging from in years from 1974 to 2002, and I have never needed a case spreader.



steved

 

[AFoulk]

the trick with the spreader is to be careful. I think theres actually a factory spec for how far to go with it so you don't stretch the case. I'm gonna try restacking my clutches this spring as my LSD doesn't do squat anymore. I changed the lube to RoyalPurple 75w-90 right after I bought it, so I don't know if that had any ill effect on it or not. Don't know how well it worked with the factory stuff in it. I think I'm gonna try Redlines gear lube next time around.

 

[steved]

While we contemplated rebuilding ours with new clutches, we simply tore it apart and did a restack. The improvement was very noticeable, if not as good as new.



I have had very good luck with RP in my 04's AAM and my dad's D80 hybrid. We are both running 85w140 fluid in the rears. The RP did not seem to have any effect on his clutches, so you may simply find the clutches are worn badly (his would only pull a single track before the restack).



steved