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Adding second filter to OEM frame rail fuel filter kiy

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I was inspired to add an additional filtration due to the second OEM kit being actually a pre-filter water separator, which is OK, but 2 or 3micron is what I'm looking for. So I found an inexpensive filter base, made a bracket, stiffened the OEM mount, and hooked it up. I also added a manual under truck input filter, and an after filter pressure sensor for a soon to be added inside cab fuel pressure guage. This will be used to determine when to replace filters. #ad
 
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Your decision to add additional filtration is a wise one. I'm going through the same thing on my truck and have the bases on order.
I plan on using a Donaldson 551313 which F/W separator did you use? I'm looking for something about the same length as the 551313.
Also are you still planning on keeping the in tank pump? I'd like to use something easier to replace like an AD.
 
Your decision to add additional filtration is a wise one. I'm going through the same thing on my truck and have the bases on order.
I plan on using a Donaldson 551313 which F/W separator did you use? I'm looking for something about the same length as the 551313.
Also are you still planning on keeping the in tank pump? I'd like to use something easier to replace like an AD.

The Baldwin BF1212 is the best f/w sep to run in a similar size to the P551313.

The Fleetguard FF5814, IMHO, is a slightly better filter than the P551313.
 
Your decision to add additional filtration is a wise one. I'm going through the same thing on my truck and have the bases on order.
I plan on using a Donaldson 551313 which F/W separator did you use? I'm looking for something about the same length as the 551313.
Also are you still planning on keeping the in tank pump? I'd like to use something easier to replace like an AD.
I used the OEM kit for the fuel water separator, the original is also still there, under the hood. I don't plan to replace the in tank pump, it appears to be working fine, and seems to hold a solid 15psi. I'll have more data on driving under load once I get the inside fuel press gauge installed. This is the kit: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007TXEPWK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The replacement filter I used on this OEM kit is a MANN filter, I found it cheaper elsewhere, but here the amazon link: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00BARH...UTF8&colid=1UAW6N83PBF83&coliid=ISV0SRTRK0FZF
 
Ever thought about using some Parker JIC fittings and push lock hoses? I only bring it up because one of those elbows looks pretty restrictive but it's probably fine. Using those fittings/hose makes for a super sanitary install (no hose clamps, no elbows).
 
Ever thought about using some Parker JIC fittings and push lock hoses? I only bring it up because one of those elbows looks pretty restrictive but it's probably fine. Using those fittings/hose makes for a super sanitary install (no hose clamps, no elbows).

I'll look into it. The 180 degree bend you see is for the pressure gauge, its only 5/16" hose, and it is high pressure fuel injection hose, so a bit stiff. With no flow to speak of, I think it will be fine. The in and out flow are via the same 3/8" hose used by the OEM kit. I did find stainless fittings on Amazon for the connections, better than brass, although I the OEM kit uses brass adapters to the stainless fuel lines. I think only in adverse biodiesel conditions would brass be an issue, but when I can get stainless on Amazon, for the price of brass at the hardware store, makes it easy to go with stainless.
 
Will the Mopar severe duty kit fit a 2003, or is there mods to be done.

Not having an '03 I can't be sure. The mounting point on the frame appears to be a bracket used for the Gasoline fuel pump, the upper two bolts you see. the lower bolt is a hole in the frame, it is a self-tapping bolt, the cuts threads as you install it. If you have the bracket, and hole, it would likely work. If you don't have these, and can fabricate/drill the hole, it is still a good deal for $89.84 for the kit, the other systems are at least twice that, and most do not have the heater/water sensor. I don't know about the possibility of the sensor being monitored with the existing in your case, you could likely monitor the new sensor at the expense of re-wire to to the other sensor. The 04.5-09 the computer can be enabled to monitor both sensors, and the wiring harness is set up this way. My additional filter base was about $30, a few bolts, some scrap steel into a bracket, a few fittings.. the cost was well under $60 in total, so combined less than $140. I think I recall the FASS kits and similar are over $200 pushing $300. So it seems to be a good deal.
 
Parts list for this project:
OEM Severe duty kit: $89.84 (Amazon.com)
WIX Filter base (I used this one for it’s steel threads): $30
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CSGT64/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Qty (4) M8-1.25 X 40mm bolts $3 (Lowes) These replace the filter mount bolts in the OEM kit, slightly longer to allow full thread engagement on the aluminum OEM filter housing
Qty (3) M6-1.00 X 20mm (or similar) (Lowes) $3 . These mount the new filter base to the adapter
Bracket, in my case made from a scrap piece of metal from a Simpson Strong Tie steel support bracket. Any 1/8” thick piece of metal with a 90 Degree bend, about 6” X 5” will work.. estimate cost: $5
Donaldson Filter P551313 $14 (Amazon.com)
½” NPT X 3/8” Stainless hose barbs (Qty 2 needed): $10 (Amazon.com)

Optional:
Extra 3/8” ID fuel hose (if OEM kit does not have enough): $ 5
Stainless ½” NPT plug (for unused ports on filter base) : $ 4ea (Amazon.com)
Fuel Pressure gauge: $20 (Amazon.com)
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087UZFVO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Stainless ¼” NPT female to 3/8” hose barb (or equivalent): $10
Stainless ½” NPT to 3/8” hose barb (pair with 2 others for 3 total, buy Qty 5 for a better price) (Amazon.com)
 
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