adj pump to 2900

[Smoke-This]

have played with timing and several pump adjustments and would like to know how to set max RPM to 2900 on pump I have noticed a set screw similar to idle screw but not sure if this is what needs to be messed with thanks for any info

 

[formula]

The high idle screw looks like the low idle screw, but it's on the other side of the pump (the easy side). Take off the little metal cone thing on the end of the screw. Loosen the two jamnuts and back out the screw to increase high idle. This gives you something like 100rpm per turn. Make sure that the lever on the pump is hitting the set screw when you open the throttle. If not, you'll probably have to grind off a bit of the stop on the throttle linkage. On this linkage, near the pivot pin, there's a little tab that hits a C-shaped notch in the bracket. Take a die grinder to the top of the C-shaped notch to get some extra travel. Bending back the go-pedal works nice so you don't have to mash your foot into the carpet to get WOT. After adjusting high idle, start engine and bring up revs slowly (in case you adjusted too much) to WOT. Don't exceed about 3000rpm, valvetrain is not designed to handle it. Hope this helps .



SP

 

[Smoke-This]

thanks gives me something to do this weekend

 

[Old Smoky]

Increasing the high idle RPMs makes it feel like it pulls a lot longer. I defuel at 3000 RPM. It isn't unheard of to go even farther. But, going that far without heavier springs increases the possibility of floating a valve.



Mike

 

[JFitzgerald]

Great description...

of the rpm adjustment, formula. Same as how I was shown to do it. Piers said to expect ~75 rpm per rev of the screw. I only went two turns for now since I haven't installed a tach yet. Even going only two turns, I had to trim the C-notch to allow the travel.

 

[formula]

I also had to add some slack to the kickdown cable for the auto trans.



SP

 

[HoofinSoot]

COOL !!!



Adding the EGT and boost gauge to the ole girl this weekend. Ended up getting a deal on AutoMeter Lunar Series gauges. Looks like once I get those installed, and get my baseline, I can mess with the high idle too ... ... ... Oo.

 

[CAROLINA CUMMINS]

Huh?

How do you get that little cone thing off? Mine doesn't seem to want to come off. What does it do, just cover up the screw??



Thanks, Steve

 

[formula]

Yep, just covers the screw, that's all. It looks like it's designed as an anti tamper type of thingy. So the stealer can attampt to avoid your warranty if you mess with it. Hummm..... warranty, yeah right!! The cone shaped cap looked to be made of aluminum and if you grab the pointy end of it with some pliers you can pull and twist it off. Don't bother to try and put it back on because you're going to destroy it when you take it off. Don't need it anyway.

 

[CAROLINA CUMMINS]

Thanks formula.

Oh yeah I am going to "tamper" with it right now.







Steve

 

[Midnite]

I just mutilated my little anti-tamper covers, so I'll throw a little more information from my experience.



There were actually three sleeves over my high idle rod/locknut. The first is what I'll call the cone. The second I'll call the outer sleeve, and the third I'll call the inner sleeve.



To remove the cone, I just pulled out my leatherman and wrenched it loose. It helped to unhook one of the throttle linkage springs which was in the way, and also the piece of linkage that has the round plastic (some are metal) cap/socket thingys.



The outer sleeve was also unceremoniously ripped out with help from Mr. Leatherman.



The inner sleeve however appears to cover the outer of two locknuts, and needed to be reshaped because of damage incurred by my ripping out the outer sleeve. I needed to reshape it so that I could get a deep well 10mm socket over the lock nut it was covering. Prior to removing the inner sleeve, you can easily see the inner locknut, but you can't see the outer locknut until you remove the inner sleeve. Anyway, with the 10mm deep socket I was able to remove the outer locknut easily, and the inner sleeve came with it.



At that point, all the anti-tamper sleeves were gone, so I just loosened the two locknuts as needed, and adjusted the threaded rod.



Hope that helps anyone else who is looking to do this.



Mike

 

[DieselBuzz]

Now that you have the bug....

There are many threads, some with diagrams and directions on how to turn up your fuel pump. Just do a search. "Old School" Frank Simkowski wrote a lot about this subject.

Art

Thanks go to Frank for all that he contributed to TDR.