Here I am

Adjusted Valves today; 5 hours

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Rear Disc brakes

Fuel screw

Status
Not open for further replies.

Wiredawg

TDR MEMBER
Well, this was one of the longest valve adjust jobs I've ever done. Interesting sidebar: I bought a Cummins 12-V tuneup kit a few years ago for about $40 that has a barring tool, feeler gauge, about 10 sockets, a flex head ratchet, an 8" extension, a 3/8" to 1/2" adaptor and a screw driver.



First, the barring point for this engine is on the left front of the bell housing, so I tried turning the engine with the alternator pulley. Didn't work. I didn't have enough clearance to turn the harmonic ballancer either. So, I dug out about eight 1/2" socket extensiions, a 1/2" swivel and used the barring tool in the bell housing to turn the engine. I routed the extensions up past the turbo and right up to the top of the intercooler. So, I solved turning the engine where I could reach the TDC pin, which is a little tedious to hold while turning the engine.



I had a little repair project pop up as I was trying to get the timing pin in: I popped of the little retainer holding the timing pin in and pulled the timing pin out of the socket. I pushed the timing pin back into the socket, straightened the bent retainer ring and used a socket to reinstall it back on.



It took me three hours to get the timing pin in the hole. I turn that danged thing by hand about 12 times. The last time, I was turing only a click at a time when I got it in the hole. There is a very tight clearance on that pin!



Well, the rest was cake.



Anyone else have this much fun adjusting their valves?



Wiredawg
 
I don't no why you couldn't turn the engine over with the alternator nut-it worked on mine. If memory serves me right you have to turn it backwards.

I agree finding TDC with the pin is a bit of a pain. A little trick that I use is to remove the "O" from the pin - it takes the friction of the pin making it a little easier to push in and pull out.
 
You must not of tried turning the engine over backwards with the alternator. Backwards forwards doesn't matter.



Less than a half hour job.



Remove valve covers. Using alternator nut, turn engine over watching the rockers. To find TDC #1 watch cylinder #6 for 'crossover'. Crossover is when one rocker is going up just as one is going down on a cylinder. You are looking for #6 exhaust rocker arm to start to drop just as #6 intake rocker arm stops at the top. This TDC for #1. Adjust #1 IE, #2 I, #3 E, #4 I, #5 E.



Mark balancer, rotate engine over 360* or watch for crossover for cylinder #1. Adjust #2 E, #3 I, #4 E, #5 I, #6 IE.



After this, wipe your behind with that timing pin :p .
 
Come to think of it I don't believe that timing pin is needed for anything other than to hold the oil from splashing out of the timing case.



I never even used one to time the injection pump as the pump is keyed to the gear.
 
Second time ought to be a breeze

Yep, I did try to turn the alternator nut backwards and the pulley slipped on the belt. It's a new belt too. It slipped in both directions. I was on the last try with the using the pin before I was going to use the cross-over method of finding TDC.



Next time ought to go quicker. FYI: I changed out injectors on my 02 and checked the valve clearances in an hour and a half. go figure.



Wiredawg
 
transmission was in nuetral. I have to say I was a little aggrevated that the pulley would turn but the belt wouldn't. My setup using the barring tool worked OK. I just think Cummins was a little bass akwards placing the barring point on the passenger side bell housing and expecting to try to push the pin in at the same time. Live and learn. The next time I do it should be way easier.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top