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Adjusting Valves

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Figure this on out???

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Looking at the hanes manual on how to adjust the valves on a 12V it seems like it is painful, what ever happen to bumping the motor over and doing the valves like on a gas motor, am I reading to much into this?



Jim
 
isn't it like...

adjust 6 valves at tdc for # 1 then 6 at 180 from that, or along those lines? I would have to look at the manual again but when I did mine per the Dogde manual it was fairly simple. I'm sure you could bump it and do one at a time when at the bottem of the lobe but it doesn't seem as easy that way.
 
Gas engine blues

I guess I'm just use to popping the cap, bumping to tdc#1 running half then 180 more for the other half, the finding tdc#1 was confusing me in the manual..... New diesel stuff. I have to forget that gas stuff now unless it has a big honkin 100mm turbo on it... lol
 
JF, Welcome to thee best resource of CTD info. w/a touch of B. S. added for flavor!



Valve adjustment is very easy, The timing pin may be a bit hard to push, but you only need to do it once providing you mark TDC on the harmonic balancer.



See the "drawing" below:





1st. TDC:



Cyl# 1 2 3 4 5 6

Valve I E I E I E



Rotate 1 revolution and adjust remaining valves:







2nd TDC:



Cyl# 1 2 3 4 5 6

Valve E I E I E







# 6 is the only pain, other than that its no different than a gas engine.





1st TDC will get I&E on #1- I on #2- E on#3- I on #4- E on #5



2nd TDC will get E on #2- I on #3- E on # 4- I on #5- I&E on #6



Hope this helps.



Do this COLD, Also, in my opinion, get rid of that Haynes book and go for the factory service manual. Good luck!:)



Mike



The "drawing" looked better before posting... the site eliminated the spaces!
 
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I'm very familiar with the 100mm turbo option on gassers..... my verdict: I like it a lot!

The new 106mm turbo that is out should prove to be interesting as well.....



Matt - who cares if you need a 200-shot of NOS to spool your turbo!!?? :D
 
Before I adjusted my valves the first time, I went to the local Cummins shop and purchased what is called a barring tool. It is used with a rachet on the flywheel to turn the motor over until you can push in the alignment pin for TDC. I have the auto transmission, so I'm not certain if this tool would be needed if working on a shifter. A bit cumbersome, but if I can manage, I have no doubt anyone can. Good luck.
 
Many of the guys rotate via the alt. pulley. You can spend a ton of money on stuff you will only use a few times. I rotated the engine by one of the four harmonic balancer bolts.



REMEMBER TO DISENGAGE THE PIN BEFORE ROTATING THE ENGINE
 
Valves

Thanks guys I'll take a look at it from that stand point, the hanes book is good for gassers on some things that's why I had it but the service manual would be the way to go.



Jim
 
If I remember right, the rotation is 360. One full turn. 180 will get you half way. With a 2 stroke it would be 180. That is the way I understand the engines to work. The valves are no problem to adjust. Go slow and double check youself.



. . Preston. .
 
Originally posted by JFulmer

Looking at the hanes manual on how to adjust the valves on a 12V it seems like it is painful, what ever happen to bumping the motor over and doing the valves like on a gas motor, am I reading to much into this?



Jim
Well I will probably get yelled by somebody for my method. I did mine by rotating the crank for TDC compression on each cylinder from front to rear. I used a long handle 1/2 inch ratchet with a 3/8 reduce adaptor and attached it to one of the damper bolts. You can reach it from the top by laying on the radiator with a nice soft pillow. (I could not use my alt pully cause the belt would slip. ). I used the notch thats in the damper as a reference point and watched the rockers for max gap. It was fairly easy if your familiar with feeler strip adjustments. The worst cylinder to do is the very rear. My timming pin would not move so I didn't bother with it. Only had 3 cylinders out of adjust by . 003 in 50,000 miles. Mostly the exhast valves. I reused the old rubber cover gaskets and no leaks. Hope I could be of help. Good luck.
 
I got it done this AM

Thanks for all the insight, it seems that a 3' extention to pry against the pin while rotating slowly is the trick, and the same extention with a socket on it to pull it back out. Mine were about the same 3 loose(Ex) 1 tight (In).



Jim
 
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