Advice Needed Re: Synthetic Oil

[jimnance]

Tear a page out of the big trucking companies book and use synthetic and install a bypass filter. The bypass filter should be a 2 micron filter. All of the oil in your engine will pass through the bypass filter in about an hour or less of highway driving. Once you have converted over to synthetic oil change both filters at regular intervals and leave the oil in the engine. Be sure to fill the canisters with oil as you install the new filters so as not to starve the turbo of oil on initial start up. Expect to get one million miles. A few years ago a friends son had 960K on his cummins and had not changed oil or laid a wrench on his engine. The oil will get black but it is not due to dirt, it is a just what happens and is harmless. When oil (synthetic) is passed through a 2 micron filter the engine does not wear, it just polishes. This is not a recommendation, just a suggestion. I know how opposed to synthetic some people are. Synthetic is man made from chemicals and does not break down as does oil from the ground. It is your truck do whatever makes sense to you and what you feel comfortable with. I have a Nissan with a high revving 4 banger gasser in it that has 207K on it. I started with synthetic at 25K. It runs good. Because I would loose all the oil when I changed filters I changed oil every 25K. The oil I use is from a slight drip not from burning it, no smoke. In your area I would use 5 w 40. It is what I might change to if necessary when I move back to Ohio from Florida. -- email address removed --

I'm not sure what big trucking companies you are speaking of, but industry standard is to use a conventional lube such as Delo, and standard filtration. Most companies will establish oil change interval based on the manufacturers recommendation. Doing anything else may void the engine warrantee. Since most major companies buy new tractors it makes economic sense to comply with manufacturer service intervals.

 

[Diesel Power]

The only reason I would and do use synthetics is because of -zero temperature startups.



Mineral based oils are refined so well they mimick synthetics, in fact most synthetics labeled as synthetic are actually group III mineral based oils.



The only true group IV and V synthetics are:

Amsoil

Royal Purple

Mobil, although there has been speculation lately they might be blending

2 not so well known others I can not think of their names right now.

RP is not group 4 100% synthetic, accually it is group 3 with senerlec additive---thats why RP does not say 100% synthetic on the bottle, redline and amsoil are the ONLY true synthetics on the auto market, as they are the only 2 that i would use. this info came directly from RP, as i used to market the product. not flaming just wanted you to know.

 

[jimnance]

Wayne, though Synthetics have some superior features, they are not perfect. In some cases, like engine break in, the slippery nature of synthetics is detrimental. Also, pure synthetics have proven not to be as effective a carrier of insoluables as have tranditional mineral oils. Evidence the fact that in the mid-90's Mobil had to buy a bunch of aircraft engines for guys after they determined that their Mobil 1 product tended to deposit lead oxides in places they didn't belong. Last, from a purely economic standpoint, Synthetics are more expensive than conventional oils when serviced according to the manufacturers service intervals.



I'm not opposed to synthetics. They are outstanding in some applications such as gear boxes. In internal combustion engines they have both pro's and con's. Id say that in general, the pro's outweigh the con's if you are willing to part with the extra $$$.

 

[gathomas]

Synthetic Facts

Anyone thinking about using Mobil 1 extended drain Syn (15,000 mile) needs to read the "fine" print on the back of the container!!



Quote: "Excludes severe service applications including racing and commercial use. Frequent towing or hauling, extremely dusty or dirty conditions, or excessive idling. If your vehicle is covered by a warranty, follow the vehicle's oil life sensor or the oil change interval recommended in your owner's manual".



How much of the above do you do?



Myself, pretty much all of it, except excessive idling.



It doesn't sound like they have a whole lot of confidence in their product.



You won't find those statements on an Amsoil container.



Also Amsoil had to "dumb" down their product to meet API specs.



The choice is yours, make an informed decision... ...



Glen Amsoil Dealer

 

[nickleinonen]

the lube oil i run, esso xd-3 0w40 is PAO base stock [don't know how much else they put in it though???]

... and it is cheaper than delvac1 and other group 3 syn's like rotella 5w40 and duron 5w40. . i have heard of people buying it from distributors for less than $20*/4 liters [when buying by the case]...



*$20 canadian...

 

[ASevilla]

I run amsoil 15-40wwith a donaldson endurance filter along with an oilguard oil by-pass system. I would wait until 20k before the change. I did notice that my truck runs smoother and quieter. There are many options and opinions with synthetic oil. Some actually say that DC will not cover your warranty if you run engine oil that is not approved.

 

[Diesel Power]

Wayne, though Synthetics have some superior features, they are not perfect. In some cases, like engine break in, the slippery nature of synthetics is detrimental. Also, pure synthetics have proven not to be as effective a carrier of insoluables as have tranditional mineral oils. Evidence the fact that in the mid-90's Mobil had to buy a bunch of aircraft engines for guys after they determined that their Mobil 1 product tended to deposit lead oxides in places they didn't belong. Last, from a purely economic standpoint, Synthetics are more expensive than conventional oils when serviced according to the manufacturers service intervals.



I'm not opposed to synthetics. They are outstanding in some applications such as gear boxes. In internal combustion engines they have both pro's and con's. Id say that in general, the pro's outweigh the con's if you are willing to part with the extra $$$.

thats why mobil 1 comes standard in the chevy vet and the dodge viper. !!!!! most motors are pre broke in. those good ole days are pretty much over :-laf

 

[RobertP]

the also come as factory fill in the jeep liberty CRD, the chrysler crossfire, and the dodge sprinter to name a few. also all of the SRT models, Oo.

 

[CharlesKennedy]

first - as posted above



"" I also use the valvoline premium blue i like it its easily found and its certified by cummins for use in their big engines which see alot more use then mine. i still drain at 6k miles and when i do finaly get a bypass filter like the ones that otr trucks use i will extend it out to 10k like it says on the bottle. . "" ... ... ...



just a note on this - basically the valvoline premium blue is a cummins product - valvoline makes for cummiins - they put in a diff additive package. . its a cummins thing. .



I use Schaeffers 7000 syn blend. . best of 2 worlds and not all syn are as good as a top syn blend. . (not saying AMSOIL or MOBOL/etc - just a comment). . anyway to be OBJECTIVE and not subjective guide yourself by VOI's and UOI's. . virgin and used oil analysis. . the longer the oil in the truck be better the ad pack must be. . AMSOIL has a really TBN for buffering. . look on BOB IS THE OIL GUY webpage and spend sometime. . more then you ever wanted to know about oils...

 

[amsoilman]

first - as posted above



look on BOB IS THE OIL GUY webpage and spend sometime. . more then you ever wanted to know about oils...

I have NOTHING against Bob The Oil Guy, but the testing he does is NOT very Scientific. In other words the tests he does are not repeatable and able to get the same results each and every time. That is specifically why the oil industry uses the (ASTM) American Standards Testing & Measures or the (ISO) International Standards Organization test parameters.



If you look at the test data for oils, air filters, Oil filters manufactured by different Companies using the same tests, then you can get a much better comparison.



Wayne

amsoilman

 

[pwr2tow]

RP is not group 4 100% synthetic, accually it is group 3 with senerlec additive---thats why RP does not say 100% synthetic on the bottle, redline and amsoil are the ONLY true synthetics on the auto market, as they are the only 2 that i would use. this info came directly from RP, as i used to market the product. not flaming just wanted you to know.

Thanks for the heads up on the Royal Purple oil. Learn something new everyday.