Advice on handling lying service writers...

[ataboy9026]

I had my ring and pinion replaced a few thousand miles ago. It has started to howl again so I took it back as I only have about 100 miles left on warranty. There is also a slight "shutter" when taking off from 0-2 or 3 mph only when the wheel is slightly turned, its fine in a straight line or after up to 5 mph and faster. The service writer told me the tech said the howl was the turbo and not the rear end and that he put additive in the rear. I told him it was funny that the howl goes away when you let off the throttle and he said it was in the turbo and there is nothing to do, and that he drove the truck around their lot in circles and figure 8's and the shutter was better if not gone. I called back and said you cannot put additive in these AAM rears and he then said they didn't put the additive in but the shutter was gone. Whatever. I went there and drove it with the tech and the same thing. And the tech didnt check the shutter at all, he didn't know anything about it. The writer never printed it on the check list. He then told me going to DC wouldn't do any good cause the "girl" that is the regional rep cant check her own oil and wont know anything and wont approve any work. I called DC and made a report but dont know what to do. I left the truck there for them to check the shutter and the writer didn't want that at all. He crumbled up my paperwork and threw me my key. I left it there and told him to have his boss call me as it wasn't healthy for me to deal with him anymore. Its an 03 2500 4x4 with the 10. 5 AAM. 69915 miles. Any advice? contact numbers?

 

[MoparBob]

Wow... crumpled up your paperwork and threw you the key... I'd want to kick some @$& !!! If it were me, I'd immediately contact (in this order) the service manager, the dealer (general) manager, and the owner of the dealership. I'd then contact DC if possible to lodge a complaint as well as quite possibly contact the local BBB to lodge a complaint. I would do this via email, phone and keep every written document that I could find to keep as proof of the wrongdoing. My local dealership has been hands down the best dodge dealership for service (Not Sales!) and I would recommend them to everybody for any warranty service. I've had dealings with dealerships similiar to yours and always had to go to the top. Once I even had to have my lawyer contact the dealership to get warranty work done. If I come across any numbers to send I'll do so. Best of luck.

 

[Suprmn]

I agree. I would make my way up the latter at a rapid pace. And in short order file a complaint with DC and with the local BBB. Good Luck.

 

[DPKetchum]

Talk to General Manager or owner. D. C. really won't get involved. The employee is the dealers employee.

 

[guava]

You really want to see them jump. File a police report for assault. Throwing pointy metal objects is a risk you shouldn't have to take while getting work done just because they disagree.

 

[ataboy9026]

what is DDD??????

 

[catoiler]

Do what I did and get a laywer and go for the lemon law!They bought mine back because of 3 bad rear ends and the a/c would never work right!The reps are a joke they work for chrysler who's side do you think they are going to take. But thats just my $. 02

 

[JWChessell]

Attaboy 9026: What is the name and location of this dealer? If you don't want to be specific, at least tell us what state and city the dealer is in so the rest of us can avoid him. Thx.

 

[DJennings]

what is DDD??????

I think you mean BBB = Better Business Bureau

 

[nps]

Advice on handling lying service writers...

Baseball bat to the knees outside the shop after dark. Guido and Sons may be able to help.

 

[ataboy9026]

The dealer is Gurley Leep Dodge in Mishawaka Indiana. This writer guys name is Nate, he is also the service manager. So I went to his boss. I did get a message from him today he said he rode with the tech and was having the tech call Dodge to ask about the "shudder" problem during take off while turning. That was an item the "Nate" fellow failer to write up on the checklist and the tech new nothing about it. A few thousand miles ago when they did the rear end I had play in the front wheel bearings. This Nate fellow tried to say my "oversize" tires caused the bearings to go bad. They are nitto 295/70/17, about an inch taller than stock. I showed him a reciept fron the day before when I bought the tires and said that was BS. And also that there was no play in the bearings it was just the tires making if feel like there was play in the wheel, then I told him to put it on the hoist and wiggle the tire anyone can see there was play there. He just lied and lied and I assume some people would believe him. Anyway I made sure he had eye contact with me and told him it would be unhealthy for him to talk to me anymore and to have his boss contact me in the future. He agreed.

 

[lmills]

went directly to the owner of my dealer when I had issues with the service manager. problem was solved quickly and much better than I anticipated.

 

[rbattelle]

Give me a break, this "Nate" character is a child. Personally, I'd go to a different dealer, but if you have no choice then you did the right thing by talking to the chief.



-Ryan

 

[CMNS PWR]

They are going to keep BSing you until you pass 70k miles. Refuse to drive it until it is fixed. Document how many miles are currently on there to date while it sits on the lot. Come back daily and check the mileage. They will try to "test" drive it until you are over 70k.



I had a similar problem with u-joints and coming close to the warrenty running out. Be loud, cause a scene. Refuse to deal with "Nate. " Ask to see the dealership owner in person. Don't leave until you can physically put your hands on him to verify that he is who he says he is.



BRING THE HAMMER DOWN!

 

[J.BURCHFIELD]

I am not saying my way is the right way but it works best for me. Once you buy the car/truck of your choise never ever go back to the dealer. If need be go to an independent shop and pay for whatever you need. For me it is worth it to avoid all the hassel. The independent shop won't think you are nuts you are bringing them business and they have heard most of the dealer horror stories. I am a senior and have bought a few cars/trucks along the way. I do my own minor repairs and oil and filter changes. Through the years you get to know the honest independents. There has never been an honest dealer (in my opinion). The very nature of a dealership invites those who see it as an opportunity to rip you off. They do not care if they aggravate you and you walk off don't return, there is a new sucker born every minute. When I go to a dealer to buy new I go with information as to invoice price and that is what I offer. If they won't accept it I walk, there will always be a dealer that will. If you agree to ordeing you will be taken advantage of. There will always be a dealer with what you want. Mine was a canceled order. They would not admit that. Dealers just do not order with everything on it, it drives the price above what other dealers are selling for. Dealers operate under the assumption that mr average does not ask the price but how much a month. When you do that they know they have you. Questions like what have you got to trade and how much can you put down are meant to disarm you. When you ask if they will let it go for invoice and they dodge the question you know what they are trying to do. They answer with what are you trading in or we can get you in this for so much a month. You have to nail them down to a cash selling price and when they agree to it put down a deposit and go get your own financing, for them it will be the same as cash. Dealer arranged financing is a rip off. They try to include life insurance at an infated price. If the undercoating has already been put on you are getting hosed again, same with scotch guard. When you walk on a dealers lot or into his show room he thinks oh good another sucker. It is sometimes difficult to prove to him that you know all the tricks. They use the same old worn out sales approch. "What can I do to earn your business today" HOGWASH.

 

[Parks]

Is the howling noise still there?

 

[ataboy9026]

Yes it is there. Only on steady speed or slight accel from 35 mph on up to about 60 or so.

 

[ataboy9026]

Just picked up my truck. "Nate" got suspended for 2 weeks . But he deserved it, anyway nothing was done to truck as dodge tech line informed the tech working on my truck the howl and shutter was a normal condition for this type of rear end. I am dropping it off at another dealer Monday to have it checked again. Any advice if they tell me the same thing? I feel I should get a complete new rear axle assembly due to the howl and posi-trac shutter. I assume I'll have to get a dodge rep here to drive it, or does that ever happen in this world?

 

[rbattelle]

Are you positive it's the rear end causing the shudder, and not a bad u-joint? I know JHardwick had the launch shudder and it disappeared when he replaced his rear u-joints.



The shudder is not normal. How loud is this howl and over what range of speeds does it occur?



There's not a lot of experience with the 10. 5" rear around here, which does use a different LS setup than the 11. 5" most of us are used to.



-Ryan

 

[ataboy9026]

I can only assume it is not a u-joint as it only happens during a slight turn. woce I am turning sharp it goes away and does not do it straight at all. This tell me it is inside the posi unit just as it starts to differate. In older chevy rears I have taken spider gears and clutches out to shim up the spider gears as they have a lot of gear lash in them. I install varriny thinckness shims between clutch plates and carrier one side at a time and the smaller "pinion" spider gears and cross shaft so oth side gears are equal and the pinion gears ride "correctly" and not loaded too tight from the left and loose on right etc. and this in turn puts more pressure on the inner spring(witch puts more on clutch pack) and I usually have to add 2 bottles of additive to keep it from happening. That is my personal experience with Eaton style posi's from chevy and ford. I have not had one of these apart to determine if the clutch or whatever style posi configuration it has could do the "grip & slip" to make this feeling. Some rears I have done this to (and there are many) sometimes only need to be driven in circles each direction to get lube back in between eack clutch plate as they are dry after cleaning them while apart. So I assumed that was the case here if the tech sat my posi unit in a parts washer for a while it could have removed lube from internals, but it would be back in there by now its been about 3k miles and I tried turning circles to get it out the first day I had it back. I never noticed it before the ring and pinion change.