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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Advice on stuck rear brake drum.

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Ball Joints ALL shot...

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Clutch hydraulics test?

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Im 70% sure you need to rotate them down towards the ground. As stated in another post I think one is l hand thread and the other is r hand you don't want to mix them up but they still go in the same direction to adjust them





The direction to which you need to rotate them should be blocked by the/a ratchet. So, if you feel a resistance then that is the way they need to be rotated. You need to get in there and push the ratchet out of the way.



I know what you are going throuh, it's a PITA each time cause we don't do it enough.



But,, remember what Kenny61 said, its important to get them on the correct end of the axle. So don't get them mixed up.
 
Tom... .

On My 98 we used Schaeffer Oil's Penetro 90 and a rear brake drum slide hammer. Left the penetrating oil on for a bit and slipped the slide hammer on the rear lip of the drum and with a little help they freed themselves and came off.



BTW...

We were just chatting about you the other week and hope all is well out West for you. Nice to see that your still hanging around with us... ..... Andy
 
I am curious If you tried any of the advice given here? The rotating wheel and brake thing worked for me and you have to have the rear end up anyway. Sure is easier than banging on them w/a BFH.

Floyd
 
Hey guys here's what works for me. Up on stands, wheels off, two lug nuts 180 apart and spun all the way in then backed off a turn. Start up engine, foot on brake, no fuel, go from reverse to drive until you hear "pop" from both sides. If you are a stick, foot on brake and an ease out on the clutch works the same - either fwd or rev. This has always worked for me I tried the ol beat the heck out of it with a BFH deal and ended up replacing studs and such till I read the "easy method" here on the good ol TDR
 
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