Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) advise in timing

[onestackdram]

Ok guys I have a few questions.



First: I need advise on the timing for my '97. I am planning on getting into it on Mon. Someone who has done this with the Snap-On kit is the most welcome as that is the kit I have.



Second: The instructions I got use the miller timing kit, so I just want to make sure that everything is the same. i. e. are the dials the same as far as reading the same way? in MM?



Third: I want to set the truck to approx. 16 or 16. 5 so what is the conv. to MM if anyone knows.



Fourth: Any other things I have missed and or advise on this subject.



I actually have a '94 complete engine sitting on a stand at school so i went through it with the instructions to make sure I understood where everything is.



TIA



Russell

 

[Jim Fulmer]

http://www.piersdiesel.com/P7100Timing.htm



Here is your chart for the MM lift, find true TDC using the drop valve method and stay away from the factory TDC pin... . good for adjusting valves bad for timing!



Jim

 

[illflem]

Just in case you don't have them here's some good instructions-

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1994/18-10-94a.htm

 

[Howard Durand]

I recently set the timing on my 94 and had no problems but I believe that on some of the later models the pump can rotate after the gear nut is removed.

I am not sure how you would hold it to keep it from moving.



On another thread on this subject, a question came up about the flat washer under the nut.

One of the members said that he purchased a new washer and it was cupped or wavy shaped instead of flat which would make it a lock washer.

He said that after that he had no trouble keeping the timing from slipping.

I assume the new washer type was developed to help prevent that.

As I recall that was a problem with the stock engines a few years ago.

 

[Jim Fulmer]

Might have been me on the washer, they should be wavy, if there not then there too flat. A stock pump might not slip but mine sure did!



You can TDC the pump and Pin it and it won't slip when you pull the gear loose, then you can roll the motor back 3/8th of an inch or so and lightly tighten the nut to check plunger lift if you want to.



Jim

 

[SRehberg]

My '96 is bone stock; how do you know if the timing has slipped some? Lack of performance or what would one look for? I think the truck should have more go than it does, but it's a Calif model so anything is possible. Thanks

 

[onestackdram]

Just in case you don't have them here's some good instructions-

thanks bill,



I did already have them, and printed and all that good stuff. I guess what I am concerned about is if there is any difference in the dial for the Miller set and Snap-on set. They discription seems to be similar but I am always a little leary about screwing delicate things up on the truck.



Russell

 

[JGK]

Onestackedram,



It looks like from your sig. you have the 215 hp pump (5spd). I've found the 215 pump can be nearly impossible to keep at the desired lift when that is over 15. 5* when you go to pop the gear loose so you can bar the engine back and forth to TDC. The force on the cam in the pump when the plunger is getting way up on its ramp causes it to roll back a bit when the gear pops loose. I had to work out a way to set it backed way off from TDC where the force is not so strong.



Never tried pinning it as Jim mentioned. Not sure how to do that. I know you can lock the pump down with a device that is screwed into the side of the pump (built into the pump), but I'm not sure that will allow you to lock it down at any plunger lift setting. Jim... ?



Make sure you clean the tapered shaft and gear real good with brake cleaner and compressed air (at least 3 times) before setting the gear for good. That should keep it from slipping.



Other than the pump rolling back its not real hard. Just take your time and avoid interruptions.



Good luck!

-Jay

 

[Howard Durand]

Jim,

That was you that mentioned the new wavy washer in the other post that I referred to.



Russell,

I have the Miller set of timing tools. The dial is metric but I do not know about the Snap On set.

If it is not metric It shouldn't be too hard to convert the metric chart to inches . In fact, one inch is equal to exactly 25. 4 mm so 0. 001 inch would be equal to 0. 0254 mm.

I set my timing to 15 degrees which is 6. 2 mm of lift. That would equate to 6. 2/0. 0254 or 244. 09 thousandths of an inch.

 

[kentdiesel]

I have the Snap On Timing set and it is metric. Works very well.

I would say to anybody on the forum wanting to learn how to set timing don't be intimidated by setting timing. Do search on finding TDC and setting timing. Then check your timing and when you feel confident checking you will be ready to set it where you want it.

Kent

 

[eberga]

How do you keep the pump from turning when you tighten the nut? I pulled the gear to replace the front gear housing, when I reinstalled it I guess I moved the timing because it wouldnt start when I got it all together. Lots of white smoke but it wouldnt start.

 

[Jim Fulmer]

Never tried pinning it as Jim mentioned. Not sure how to do that. I know you can lock the pump down with a device that is screwed into the side of the pump (built into the pump), but I'm not sure that will allow you to lock it down at any plunger lift setting. Jim... ?



You won't be able to, find true TDC with the drop valve method, put the motor at TDC using that mark then pull the pump plug and turn the pin around and insert the plug back in the pump (it's messy doing this) a mirror and a light are good so you can see the timing pin (looks like a screw driver blade) for the pump. What your doing is verifying pump TDC to engine TDC, and with the pump nut loose and the gear pulled loose and everything at TDC roll the motor back about 1/8th of an inch from the TDC mark for every degree of timing you want it advanced, once your were you want to be snug the pump nut up 20 lbs or so and pull the pump pin spin it back around and put the cap back on and tighten the pump nut to 160 lbs after you clean the heck out of it and verify that the washer is good then put it back together, If you pay attention to the way the motor sounds when you crack the throttle you will learn more about what you did and can tell the difference at idle.





How do you keep the pump from turning when you tighten the nut?



One tool on the pump nut (30mm) another on the alternator nut (22mm) and go opposite directions at the same time.



Jim

 

[onestackdram]

Ok this very quickley sounding like something I need to make sure my instructor at school is right there the whole time to make sure I dont screw anything up... lol



But keep the advise coming guys I am keeping track of it and will use every bit i can



THANKS TO THE TDR



Russell

 

[Jim Fulmer]

Russ, the timing is a little over rated once you understand it, getting a true TDC is harder to me..... guess what I do for the Navy... . Instructor



Jim