AFC Lever grind.

[Rebel Ram]

In search of more fuel I have once again been pouring over the VE threads trying to learn as much as possible. As far as I can tell this is all I have left to try to get more performance from my pump. That is what I can do myself because that is the whole point here for me. My question is on the grind itself. Do I grind the reverse lever at the point where the guide pin contacts the lever or where the lever contacts the tensioning lever? And also, how much to grind. I have read of some folks completely removing the "Foot". Please confirm for me what part of the reverse lever is the foot. These part names are the ones given in the Bosch VE Manual.

 

[Greenleaf]

I love the technical terms. That way we are on the same page.



You grind off the bottom of the reverse lever. There is a 90° bend there. Take off as much or as little as you like. Too bad I don't have before and after pics to show you. You'll have to make the trip out to IN SOP III in October



There is a particular method used to cut and dress the foot but I simply don't have a way with words like Pastor Bob does. Sorry, I ain't no good at painting a mental picture.



GL

 

[Rebel Ram]

I would imagine that as long as the same profile on the foot was kept, in relation to the pivot point on the reverse lever. And polish well so little or no friction was there to impede motion. But the question now is narrowed down to how much? 0. 030", 0. 040", 0. 050", 0. 060".....

I know the question is hard to answer because allot of this type of thing is subjective. Perhaps what would be good is posts by those who have done this with the amount ground and the subsequent results.

If information on what mods are done to this truck would be helpful they are listed in my truck profiles. Its the 93.



BTW. Peru would be a blast I'm sure but thats a long haul for me and I wouldnt know which truck(s) to bring. :-laf

 

[Greenleaf]

I have done a few but the ones I have done, foot is totally removed from the lever. I'm not much for experiments you understand.



Cut the foot off so that thestraight portion above the foot continues down to where the foot was. Then radius this portion of the lever where the foot WAS with a nice round radius and polish it to a very smooth finish. It ain't rocket science. I'd recomment pulling the lever out of the pump to reseal the pin and simply leave the lever out altogether. Just have enough turbo to cool the engine if you pull heavy loads. This is assuming you live in Amish country like I do and are subject to zero emissions testing.

 

[Rebel Ram]

Pardon me for being too specific if I am. :-laf But are you saying "Dont bother with the grind, Just leave the lever out"? And then seal up the guide pin hole?

 

[Greenleaf]

One must remove the lever pin and lever to access the fuel control pin and it's O ring. RTeplace the pin's O ring and then reinstll the reverse lever pivot pin and the two ball bearings. Seal the ball bearings with a small dab of two part epoxy like JB Weld or a permatex two-part etc. etc. This is not permanent as the epoxy will "pop off" the aluminum should one need to remove the balls and pin.



You can grind off as much as you like and reinstall the pin/lever/ball assy or simply leave the lever out. Another option would be to cut off the lever directly next to the pivot pin boss but then she is no good should you need/want it in the furture. I may be able to supply you with a lever if you really really needed one should you muck it up and need to start over.



You must install the pivot pin to enable one to remove the balls as it's used to drive them out.

 

[Rebel Ram]

Thanks Scott. I put the PODs in on Wed and did the grind in Sunday. My first drive after the last pump mod rewarded me with :-laf :-laf :-laf s. But now a few other things have become evident. At cool startup I get whitish blue smoke. Not too much but its there. Maybe higher pop pressure with the new injectors are retarding injection a little. Also I think I need a better lift pump. On a good WOT run in 3rd gear the engine acts like I have a 2500 RPM Gov. It pulls hard up to that point. But light runs I can still pull 3200 moderate throttle. Finding the weak links. Oh and I kept blowing my boost gauge hose off, Had to redo that. (no clamp) Pushing a solid 30# with an HY. (she spools FAST) I think the Governor mech is sticking after hard acceleration as i get sort of a dead 1/2 pedal until enough throttle pressure "pops" the weights back in. Let me know if any of this sounds right.

 

[Greenleaf]

The new perf injectors will retard timing.



Exhaust haze is quite evident with the POD. Most noticable w/a cold engine but evident all the while the engine is running especially w/a modified injection pump.



If you push the pump hard and the fuel supply will not keep up the symtoms you describe may come into play. You do have a fuel pressure gauge RIGHT? Everyone needs to install a fuel pressure gauge.



Some folks find that when the engine is modified, the weak links show up. That too is normal.