AFE Drop-In filter is coming off my truck!

[Ncostello]

After having an AFE drop in replacement filter for a year or so... I've decided it is coming off. In fact no more oiled filters of any type are going back on. I'll just run a stock Fleetguard filter without the foam and replace it as necessary.



After mine got pretty dirty, I decided to clean it. And I went exactly by the book taking special care to do things just right. I even had input from AFE on the technique. I didn't notice any oil in the intake tube prior to cleaning but there was some black oily residue on the turbine blades. I cleaned the blades very carefully with Simple Green and blue shop towels. I also cleaned the inlet to the turbo as it too had some residue.



I washed the filter properly and let it dry in my garage for two days. Finally I applied the blue (original color oil was gold) oil per spec and let it soak in for one day. After re-installation and 500 miles of driving... my turbine blades are once again covered black with residue. I can now feel an oil film in the intake tube.



Holding the AFE (mines the original, not Pro-Guard 7) to the sun reveals the pinholes everywhere. Heck... even a garage light shows them well. If I put the oil on any thinner I couldn't get any absorption or coverage of the media. Then my turbo wouldn't have a chance as the pin holes in the media would let alot through with no oil to trap it.



I've done what I was supposed to and don't like the results. I'm not giving up clean air for a little more flow. Flow which I probably can't use anyway as the only performance Mods I have are 275's. I'll keep an eye on the minder and change the Fleetguard filters when they are dirty.



Not knocking AFE... its just not working out on my turbocharged diesel truck. They have a nice product and quality is good. I just think the turbo is pulling the oil right out of it. And the pin holes surely contribute to the greater flow.



I once ran a BHAF. I didn't like the open element and the possibility of it getting wet. So I modded the stock air box by removing the boot and cutting the air hole as big as I could on that side.

 

[y-knot]

I like the cotton gaze type air filters. But after many cleanings, the only way to re-oil them is with the aerosol can. The coverage is even and light. I use to use a push type of spray bottle, it was better then blotting and wiping off, but no way as effective and easy as the aerosol can. K&n, Cool-Blue, Vulant all have them and one can last two years. The best results for me have been to use the pre-cleaner that slips over the air filter. This catches 80-90% of all the dirt, and cleans in 2 minutes. Just remove blow off with air and reinstall. If you have been in very dusty areas, give it a quick bath in dish water, and blow dry. I know the frustration you feel toward the over oiling problem, it took me several years to figure it out. The gaze type filter are very good, and the AFE offers much improved air flow. I hope you give them one more chance and try the aerosol spray can, and a pre-filter. Good luck

 

[Ncostello]

You're right... I should never say never. But for now its back to paper.



I did use the aerosol spray. It came in a kit from AFE. I guarantee that I followed the directions to a tee and still somehow over oiled or ???



I only sprayed on enough to evenly cover the gauze. After it soaked in it appeared to be very even. Even that wasn't good enough I suppose. Any less and I would have had areas that received no oil coating at all. And I didn't want that either.



Plus I can't use a prefilter wrap on a drop in. I could if it was the Mega Cannon filter. Thanks for your advice

 

[Dkuhlman]

I used oiled gauze filters for years on my trucks and motorcycles. They definitely flow better, especially when dirty. The problem is I don't think they filter as well as a good pleated paper element. I would find fine dust in the intake tract. So, going for long engine life, I stick with the factory setup. If I was going high performance and staying out of dusty environments, then I'd look at a high flowing, open element.

 

[PRyker]

Guys,



Oil analysis is the only real way of telling how well your air filter is working, or at least that is what I have been told. The silicone # is directly related to how well your air filtration is working. Grit or fine oil mist with some dirt on the fan blades of the turbo and in the intake tube are common with oiled filters. I believe you get the same with the paper filters but you do not see the buildup as there is no fine oil mist for the small particles to stick to.



I was under the impression that the AFE Mega Cannon with ProGaurd 7 was far superior in filtration than the stock filter. Correct me if I am wrong but that is what I have read and was told by many a dieselhead.



Thoughts?



Phil

 

[paccool]

I've had an AFE on for a year. It's time for an oil analysis now, will get the sample this weekend and get it sent off. I had a BHAF on before that with no issues about silicone with it. We'll see what it shows.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

There are as many and MORE problems with dust leakage past the stock paper filters - but as mentioned above, owners don't realize it since without the slightly oily surface to trap and hold it, it simply blows on thru the engine...



Biggest problem with a paper filter is that when subjected to high air flow, or when they start getting dirty, they will physically distort, pulling slightly away from the sides of the airbox and allowing dirt to bypass the element. Next time you swap out a paper OEM filter, CAREFULLY check around the edges of the filter where it is supposed to seal - chances are, THIS is what you will see:



#ad




That tan colored stuff you see at the edges of the filter is DIRT! And that is the original OEM filter off my '02 at about 10,000 miles or less as I recall.



MEANWHILE, my last oil analysis at 5000 miles, using a K&N showed 3 ppm silicon...

 

[RDLeader]

Ncostello, did you get any analysis info done prior to this? It would be interesting to see the differences between a fleetguard or an AFE. I know when I do my analysis with mine, it's always around 3 ppm on the silicon and I do have some black on the inlet, but not much.



Roman

 

[Ncostello]

No analysys done since I always change the oil somewhere between 4K or 5K miles. My oil sits around in the pan more than it gets pumped around the engine which is why I change more often. Guess that would be good to know what the analysis was. Perhaps I should try a couple just for info baselines.

 

[Ramafid]

I had major problems trying to clean my AFE as well. I had to keep dumping more and more oil on the filter to try to get complete coverage. I then ended up with a very oily filter. Leaked oil out for at least 4 mos in the filter box. I decided to by a new filter and just replace it every 2 years or sooner if necessary. Seems like a waste to throw away a "Lifetime" filter but I will never go through the cleaning process again.

 

[KKlepfer]

I also purchased the megacannon AFE for my truck and found after 5k that there was dirty film on the inside of the intake tube. When I put the filter up to the sun or garage light I also saw pin holes and that concerned me. So I immediately ordered the Pro 7 and installed it with a little over 5k on the truck. There are no visable pin holes on the Pro 7 filter.

I just received my last oil analysis today with 22k on the truck and 7500mi on the oil. The silicone is 3ppm. Oo. Remember with low milage trucks the silicon can come from the sealant the manufacturer uses in the assembly process so if your seeing high silicon level on a truck with less than 15k it doesn't necessarily mean it's the air filter.

 

[DOWG]

There is a marine version of the BHAF that has the wire mesh on the inside as well as the outside. Good airflow, good filtration and no mess.