2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Aftermarket backup lights. Wiring? ? ?

[Jeff H]

How did you wire up your backup lights?

I was thinking of disconnecting the factory backup lights. Then tap into the electrical from that for my new back up lights. Each light is 55 watts. Will I have to use a bigger fuse? I also plan on installing a manual switch.

 

[ROADWARRIOR]

Jeff,



The factory wire really isn't adequate for 55w lamps. Your best bet would be to tap off the factory wire to control the coil of an add on relay.



Dan

 

[ecv2001]

I would think if you bought decent brand lights that they would come with a relay.

I have an aftermarket rear bumper with 55 watt lamps. All i did was run the wires along the frame poke them through by the steering wheel and mounted a switch near the ashtray.

I used piaa lights they give you a full harness and everything. You might have to extend the wires is all to lengthen the harness as these wire kits are made for short vehicles.

jim c

 

[wyosteve]

I have the White Nights from Geno's and tapped into the factory wire. No problems in over 2 yrs. fwiw

 

[The patriot]

If you have trailer wiring....

I believe the middle post is for backup lights.

Might be easier to get to than the stoplights themselves.

Just a thought/option.

Eric

 

[1dslram]

I bought 35W lights from WallyWorld for $19. 99 and replaced the lamps with 100W units. I wired a relay into the stock lights and picked up a hot wire from the trailer wiring. I also have 50W lamps in the stock backup lights.

Bruce

 

[AggieJustin]

I cut the wire leading to the stock backup lights and used it to trigger a relay. Then I tied the stock lights and my add-on lights into the relay.



I also put in a manual switch to control the backup lights. Since the manual switch and the backup switch are both tied into the trigger of the relay, you'll need to use a diode on the leg from the manual switch to the relay if you want to use a lighted switch. Otherwise, you'll blow the fuse on the backup circuit whenever you hit reverse.



Also, you can tie the lights straight into the stock wiring, but your lighting will be severely diminished. That's how I did mine at first and the total output was not all I hoped for. After putting the relay in, now the new lights are much brighter.



JM

 

[CRSmith]

I wanted to do minimal work. So, I got a bolt that fit snugly into the center receiver of the round trailer wiring plug. The center is the backup light terminal for a trailer. I clamped a wire to the bolt with a nut and washer near the head. That wire runs out of the trailer connector spring-loaded cover to the hot side of my lights. The ground wire is wrapped around one of the 4 little screws that holds the trailer connector in place. I take the bolt out and let it hang to tow. No switches, no running wires to the cab, took about 15 minutes, perfect for me. BTW, my lights are 35W apeice and I've had no problems.

 

[Got Smoke?]

I just picked up some $20 (I believe) 55w driving lights from Auto Zone and bolted them to the sides of my reciever hitch where there were already holes that were just the right size! Oo.



Caution this route you will have to extend wires, but do it neatly, install a relay for extended use and all shall be well!

 

[Challenger-II]

Originally posted by wyosteve

I have the White Nights from Geno's and tapped into the factory wire. No problems in over 2 yrs. fwiw

I too have the White Nights backup light setup. No need to use the small gauge factory reverse light wire for tapping in to for power. There is a big fat heavy gauge constant 12V wire that runs to your trailer hookup socket that should be used. The White Night already has an internal relay that is triggered by your stock reverse wire.

 

[Oil Burner]

I have a pair of farm lights wired to my painless wiring ciruit (hot full time) and then to a switch in the cab which is nice because you can have the lights on with the truck in neutral while you go adjust your trailer, or whatever. No extra load on existing wiring.

-Jason

 

[RAMN4EVR]

I purchase a set of PIAA back up lights, comes with everything you need. but only 1 light, so bought a another single back up. I now have no problem seeing whats behind me. Plus comes with a toggle switch so you can flip them on when ever you need. Nice for tailgators.

 

[Sparky10]

I did like JStull. Picked up a set of 35 watt, rubber cased, equipment lights from NAPA for $10. 00 each and used my Painless Wiring with "constant hot" to get power. Ran a 12 ga. wire through the frame back to the lights and put a switch in the cab.



Now I can have the lights on whenever I wish. Working on the trailer or checking the remains of the Fords, Chevys and Toyotas I just drove over, I mean passed.



Easy and very functional!

Scott

 

[Got Smoke?]

Originally posted by RAMN4EVR

Nice for tailgators.

Used mine for that purpose one time... . really only time I ever had a vehicle that low I could use 'em on. :-laf



Was taking the G/F back to town one night (I live 20 miles out in the sticks)... . little honda, ricer-burner, wanna-be-asphalt-scaper was riding my tail.



Well at the time I didnt' have smoke cause the rack stop was in and I was still basically stock (no injectors or plate :{ ). This guy kept on and on riding my tail... finally I slowed down and flipped the rocker for the lights on my reciever... :-laf he backed off!

 

[Jeff H]

Sounds about right

I went and picked up some relays today. Also installed fog lights today. Looks like I go with the relay to light em up. I bought a set of back up lights from wally world too. Tiny little things they are. They are bright too.

 

[GMocanu]

I also picked up the White Knights from Genos. They work good, were very easy to install and look really good. I have gotten many "cool" comments on them.

 

[CoreyPerez]

I used some 100w flood lights that I got from Advanced autoparts, they are long and thin. I bolted them to the sides of the trailer hitch, and I'm using a constant duty solenoid that is "triggered" by the reverse switch in the transmission. I also have a "manual" switch so I can turn them on anytime I want them. The stock reverse lights, new flood lights and the trailer's reverse lights/work lights are all wired into this solenoid. Works great. Its not a quick install, but I love it.



Corey

 

[wlowe]

Here is some info that might be useful:



http://dodgeram.org/tech/mods/electric/backup_wire.htm



http://catalog.com/susq/other/wiring.htm



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Good luck,

Bill

 

[Doubleclutch]

Well, call me lazy but I used a wireless switch from JC Whitney (~$40) and tapped into the trailer power wire. Two flood lights replace the bolts at the bumper-frame. Trimmed some motorcycle fork covers to hide the light's mounting. Works well, and you don't have to be in the truck to "flip the switch".

Greg

 

[Oil Burner]

Doubleclutch,

Man, that is lazy. Just kidding, i would have a wireless switch if I would have thought of it too. I also used the bumper bolts. they work great.

-Jason