Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Aftermarket Camshaft

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) KDP jig in Phoenix soon.

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Throttle stuck this morning!

Status
Not open for further replies.
The camshaft will give you lower egt's and a little more power, but if you port and o-ring the head you can really feed it the fuel and be able to control egt's alot better. Check at Piers Diesel Research!!!
 
well i'm not sure about that. What the cam does is give u quicker spool up, more low end torque, less smoke. They say in can help the egt's, but its more the egt's bottom end. I should say it takes a little longer for the egt's to climb, which is good. I haven't seen any top end power, and the cam isn't built for that, unless u get one that is huge and u have to cut the pistons for it. the cam really made the throttle a lot more snappier, and with the B-1 its really needed the cam. this is all on my dads truck. I installed a PDR cam in it about 6 months ago.
 
Mitchell cam-lets it pull nice at higher rpm, no noticbale loss of bottom end, gives you the ability to drop out of overdrive- a weak gear- and really flog it towing. Of course, the twins help a little also. ;)
 
Thanks for all the replies. I have talked to Piers and am considering his camshaft. The reason to get into the engine is because of KDP. The head gasket is also seeping near the thermostat housing. This is on a 1995 Ram which I sold to my brother. He pulls all his own wrenches. Any tips for getting the lifters out of the Cummins? Thanks.
 
I am using the Diesel Dynamics camshaft. It cut egt about 150 degrees, noticeably lessened smoke and improved turbo spoolup. Moderate increase in power, maybe 15 hp. These things are useful if you want to use more fueling, less important if near stock. DD uses new lifters and a new marine cam with the press on and bolt on gear. Cummins went to this setup for reliability when they raised governed speed to 3000 rpm for that engine. It also has the smoothed and shot peened fillets to keep the cam nose from cracking off at higher rpm. The result costs noticeably more but I feel the reliability and hgiher quality cam core material are worth it. The marine cam is ground to their profile, which is dependent on which engine you are running. There is no need to cut the pistons for valve reliefs, but I recommend the 60 psi springs with the 12 valve engine.



The Dodge serivce manual outlines procedures for changing the cam and lifters. You can also see TDR #33.
 
the cam installs is a lengthy one. Took me the biggest part of the day. U need a cam tool by cummins or if u're good u can build your own. I think it was $170. The wooden dowels plug into the pushrod holes and u tie rubber bands around the dowels, this lifts the lifters up, pull the cam, slide in a cam trough and let the lifters fall in the trough and pull them out. Putting them in u have a rubber plug hooked to a string that pull the lifter up threw the trough and up the hole. Its pretty crazy, . . its worth a good laugh the first time u do it. After that the laughing stops immediately and the cussing begins, lol.
 
Joe, is DD's cam any different grind than Piers? I talked to him last week and he has a nice package with fly cutting the pistons and a new marine cam. Do they grind the blanks themselves or outsource it?
 
Its pretty crazy, . . its worth a good laugh the first time u do it. After that the laughing stops immediately and the cussing begins



lol... . I was thinking the same thing till I got a chance to see a truck torn down at Piers's shop, it made it look much easier but I'm sure there are some wrenches thrown during it:p



Before it's all over I'll get a chance to do it! Thanks for the prices on the install kit.



Jim
 
Thanks for all the information. Wouldn't a piece of abs pipe with the center cut out of it work for a lifter trough? What else is in the Cummins cam install kit? I hate to spend money on tools that I can make myself. The truck is slightly modified with more mods planned in the future.
 
if your pulling the head and the cam you might as well pulll the eng and drop the pan that way you can get the lifts out when you drop one they go in easier that way to I found out the hard way luck for me the eng was all ready out :rolleyes: George
 
I worked with DD on their grinds and therefore never asked Piers for his specs. From what he said to me and looking at one at Tulare, I believe the DD cam is quite different.



I would not try to use plastic pipe. If thick for some strength (remember you havfe to hammer the dowel rods into the lifters), there won't be enough clearance for the new lifter to turn and go up into the lifter bore. Use 2" exhaust pipe with about 1/3 of the circumference cut off and a plate welded on the end so the lifter can't fall out of the far end.



Cummins cam changes are definitely not for the faint of heart or those who are "klutzy" or say "oops" a lot. :D
 
I've had a DD cam in for six months now and 10,000 miles.

I will agree with Joe. EGTs are 75-150* lower. Spoolup is quicker and the engine seems to like to rev more. This is with a 3000rpm spring kit and DD2s on a 160hp engine.

I have not seen any increase in fuel milage.
 
Thank you Mr. Donnelly. This will be my first Cummins camshaft change, but not my first camshaft change. I have respect for your opinions and wisdom. Thank you and all who have posted. I will be calling mentioned vendors. I should coat/wrap the exhaust pipe so that the camshaft bearings are not damaged. Any other tips?
 
thats the funny thang abut the cummins the only bearing is the front one the rest run on the block:eek: I guess at 1500 rpm they figure it wont hurt anything the repair if it does is to bore out the holes and put cam bearings in
 
I'm not trying to start yet another war..... BUT... ...



DD used to require an in-shop install - they wouldn't let a cash-n-carry customer buy their cam.



The reasons for this have already been discussed... . so is the in-shop install still the rule?



Matt
 
Okay, cool... .



I could buy 3 from other vendors for that price... . this is just an observation, not a flame.



It's all in the R&D... . EVERY vendor has put a lot of time/effort into these things and their all better than OEM bumpsticks.



Matt
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top