2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Aftermarket Control Arms

[JMcCoy]

I need new control arms. Aftermarket control arms are usually 1/2 inch longer, for lifts. That should probably be sufficient to keep my 35" tires from rubbing. Though 1/2" longer than stock, they are referred to as short arms. Is anybody running a true long arm kit? Several companies make long arm and radius arm kits. They are usually needed for high lifts, but are now available for lifts as little as 2 inches. The increased articulation and better geometry from a long arm would be nice, but are there any "real world" negatives. Will they cause or help steering wander?

Also, any experiences/recommendations with Johnny Joints and urethane bushings? Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

 

[JMcCoy]

Really, nothing? Maybe I should go to a Dodge/Cummins forum.

 

[VolsFan]

I bought a custom made set from a guy on ebay years ago for my old truck. They were made to order, tubes with poly bushing joints welded on the ends, and had grease fittings. Also were powder coated. They looked good and worked good. It was not much more $ to buy that set over get poly bushings pressed into the stock arms, but this has been a few yrs ago. When the time comes for me to do control arms on this truck I will try to find a similar set, last piece of my front end that hasn't been touched.

 

[JMcCoy]

Thank you VolsFan for your input. I had to drive through my swale at an angle yesterday to get to my trailer. I then heard some clumping going down the road. I crushed my driver side lower control arm bushing. I guess I'm going to have to make a decision sooner than later. Thanks.

 

[dknoch]

I have the DT Profab +1/2" arms. Had them for quite awhile with no problems. Replaced the rubber at one point and added grease fittings. Those with a 2 inch spring spacer and adjustable tracbar allowed me to center the wheels in the wheel wells and from left to right. Drives as good as new, easy to install, no modifications to the frame.

 

[AEdelheit]

Aside from initial price and install there is really no downside to long arms, as you mentioned the geometry is much better and its not trying to push the axle forward as it goes up resulting in a much better ride. It also can have more tire clearance from the fender at ride height since it does not pull the axle back nearly as much as it travels.

 

[JMcCoy]

Ended up ordering a set of Dodge Off Road (DOR) adjustable control arms. I ordered the ones with the Johnny Joints at the axle and urethane bushings at the frame. They were a little pricey at $600 plus shipping, but they should be super strong. I'll update when I get them installed.

 

[tubehead]

I think you will be happy with the Johnny Joints. I've been using them since the Currie's came out with them years ago. The JJ's are less harsh than a standard rod end when used in control arms. Plus the JJ's are rebuildable if you ever get enough wear to notice.

 

[JMcCoy]

I had a few hundred mile trip to go on, towing a trailer. Here is a picture of my old control arm and temporary fix.

I used some thick inner tube material to cushion the joint.

I didn't know whether to consider myself an genius or an idiot. I'll let yall be the judge. LOL! Either way, I got trough the trip without an issue. I'll keep you posted once the control arms come in.

 

[seafish]

Any simple on the road fix that gets you home safely is genius!! I have done the same thing using tire scraps to repair the center support bushing on my truck.

I AM curious what the fit and finish is on those DOR control arms, as well as how long it takes to receive your parts. NOT trying to bad mouth DOR, I generally LIKE their designs, but have read several thread about problems with customer service.

 

[Ozymandias]

I like the OEM Arms, the quality is good and they last long.
Bought me the new ones after 200K.

 

[JMcCoy]

I like the OEM Arms, the quality is good and they last long.
Bought me the new ones after 200K.

The stock arms have worked ok for me. The problem is they are too short. Aftermarket (short arms) are 1/2 inch longer to correct for my 2" lift and re-center the axle in the wheel well. Also, the vulcanized rubber in the stock axle does not allow for rotation or flex while off road. On a stock height truck that stays on the highway, I would agree 100%. Yes, I realize I create most of my own problem by trying to do too much with my truck. I want to tow a 40' trailer, lug a slide in camper while running the Baja 1000. Maybe even hit the King of the Hammers on the way home, and have it ride like an El Dorado. Oo..

 

[RandallScot]

Hell Bent Steel...Adjustable control arms ( up to 2" longer than stock), with massive, grease-able spherical end bearings :-laf

 

[BD-Hector]

BD’s Control Arms are constructed with forged end links and are built Super Tuff to resist bending — over three times stronger than stock arms! The Control Arm bodies are powder coated and threads are zinc plated to prevent rusting.

To help correct caster, bottom arms are fully adjustable on the truck while top arms only require the removal of one bolt to allow adjustment. Smooth and stiff Ultra Polyurethane bushings are used for extended life and are replaceable. Kit offers top and bottom arms or can be purchased separately.

www.dieselperformance.com/index.php/product/index/289P

 

[Regcabguy]

Fit and finish on the 2nd gen DOR arms are very good. My friend got the no bend ones with poly bushings.
Issues were: credit card charged immediately,very poor communication and six weeks for completion and shipping.

 

[AEdelheit]

I dont understand where there is so much thread showing on the joint shanks, nothing strong about that, id rather have less adjustable and added strength.