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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Aftermarket LP question

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission After market fuel sending unit

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Power Problem

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Hi everbody, my truck is getting to the point where I'm afraid my LP is going to go soon. I have been looking through threads trying to get more info, as well as other sites. My dilemma is that I want to replace it before it goes bad, but I don't know what route to take. I plan on having the truck for many years to come, and see how far I can go with it. I keep up on all maintenance, its my baby. And eventually I'd like to do more upgrades. Right now it is virtually stock hp / torque. I originally looked at the FASS system and Air Dog, but now I don't know where to go. Is that even the route I should be taking? Please advise.

PS. do the FASS and Air Dog systems just bypass the stock LP?
 
Both the Fass and Air Dog are good pumps so either is a good choice. Upgrade fuel lines to larger size with AN fittings. Bypass OEM LP as you don't want it to restrict flow or pressure. Bypassing OEM filter is optional I chose to remove the filter put pump though can to keep fuel heater functional. You can also move the OEM pump back along side the Fass or Air Dog and plumb and wire in parallel for a belt and suspenders back up. Or one of the other less priced but good pumps as a back up. I am sure others will chime in here.
 
Both the Fass and Air Dog are good pumps so either is a good choice. Upgrade fuel lines to larger size with AN fittings. Bypass OEM LP as you don't want it to restrict flow or pressure. Bypassing OEM filter is optional I chose to remove the filter put pump though can to keep fuel heater functional. You can also move the OEM pump back along side the Fass or Air Dog and plumb and wire in parallel for a belt and suspenders back up. Or one of the other less priced but good pumps as a back up. I am sure others will chime in here.



Exactly. I bought my Fass USED after the truck it had been on was in a wreck. It's STILL running. I added my own big line kit with fuel hose from Auto Zone right to the VP-44. I didn't know you could use the original fuel canister and the heater with out a filter. Cool. I'm going to plumb mine in.



Belt and Suspenders back up. That's alright. :-laf
 
If you aren't planning any HP upgrades and don't need the increased fuel flow, then all you need to do is swap out the stock lift pump with an aftermarket Airtex lift pump. It's a relatively inexpensive gearotor type pump that replaces the stock lift pump perfectly... no modifications to the fuel lines are needed.



I've been running one in the stock location for a couple of years now and am very happy with the performance and fuel pressures...



18-22 psi at idle

14-16 psi cruise

7-10 psi WOT



Exact fuel pressures depend on fuel viscosity due to temperature.



Best regards,



John L.
 
I'm a holdout on the factory lift pump. I do have big lines and have relocated it back near the tank (using the kit from Geno's) though. High horsepower isn't an issue, considering that I haven't seen less than 9 psi with the box turned up. And my current pump hasn't missed a beat since I put it on the frame rail.



My fuel filter and heater are still in place. The little 300w heater does a good job of heating the fuel in the canister to keep the wax dissolved and passing through the stock filter. With a FASS system and the stock filter removed, the heat added to the fuel from the little heater would be negligible after the fuel makes a complete circuit through the system and is dumped back into the tank (heatsink). There certainly wouldn't be enough heat left to keep the parafin out of the FASS filter. It wouldn't hurt to keep it in place, but it really isn't doing anything if there isn't a filter in the canister. For cold climates, a "plan-b" fuel heater for the FASS would be a good idea.



Price-wise, after 3 replacement pumps I'm still not at the cost of a "high performance" fuel system. Over the life of the truck, my pumps have cost me three-tenths of a cent per mile. I'm okay with that.



The main reason I still run the stock pump is that I can pick up a new pump anywhere that sells Cummins parts. I had one drop out 100 miles away from home, stopped at a Freightliner dealer off the interstate for a pump and Menard's for tools (the one time I took a trip without either) and was on my way in less than an hour (would have been 15 minutes if I had the pump on the frame rail at that point). The Dog and the FASS have lifetime warranties, so the cost of parts would have been cheaper in this case, but a 100-mile tow back home to wait for those free parts wouldn't have been.



I dunno. I think one of the high-dollar filter kits would look cool hanging out from under the bed, but for me I don't see a compelling reason to convert.
 
I went with a Glacier Diesel system a few years ago, but i left my still functional stock pump in it's location just in case i have a problem on the road. That way i could reconnect the wire and fuel lines and be good to go . Randy
 
There are several good reasons to go with AirDog.
1. Pumps more fuel at 95gph than you can burn unless racing.
2. The replacement Fleetguard filters are less expensive than stock filter or FASS and you can get them down to 3 micron, which is the real kicker.
3. Nothing is perfect but the AirDog comes pretty darn close. I have over 300,000 miles on mine and all I have ever done is change filters.
4. Speaking of filters, I have put 150,000 miles on one filter before it started to reduce psi. Talk about low cost of ownership!!
5. No need for a fuel heater with AirDog unless you have severe cold and/or questionable fuel quality. Running the AirDog through the stock filter canister results in an unnecessary restriction.

PM me for dealer contact.

'Nuff for now.

Godspeed,
Trent
 
There is one other solution, the RASP. This one is a mechanical pump sold by DTT. It will serve as your primary pump and has a Hobs switch that will fail over to your electric pump if the pressure drops below 7-8 psi (ie if the belt breaks). I have had one for the last 60k miles. The higher the RPM the more pressure you pull. This may be more expensive though. I bought mine for ~800 with a big line kit.
 
I had the Carter for sometime on the frame rail with the big line kit and closely monitored it with a fuel pressure gauge. Worked for about one year, then when I was on a hunting trip in northern west virginia back in the mountains the pump started crapping out on me for no rhyme or reason, talk about scary being a long ways from any service station, I ended up getting hosed on another junk carter just to get back home, but I had to have it. Whatever pump you get, definitely carry a spare, its worth the peace of mind.
 
There is one other solution, the RASP. This one is a mechanical pump sold by DTT. It will serve as your primary pump and has a Hobs switch that will fail over to your electric pump if the pressure drops below 7-8 psi (ie if the belt breaks). I have had one for the last 60k miles. The higher the RPM the more pressure you pull. This may be more expensive though. I bought mine for ~800 with a big line kit.



The RASP needs an electric LP to work. :confused:
 
I had the Carter for sometime on the frame rail with the big line kit and closely monitored it with a fuel pressure gauge. Worked for about one year, then when I was on a hunting trip in northern west virginia back in the mountains the pump started crapping out on me for no rhyme or reason, talk about scary being a long ways from any service station, I ended up getting hosed on another junk carter just to get back home, but I had to have it. Whatever pump you get, definitely carry a spare, its worth the peace of mind.



Or buy ONE Fass or AirDog and forget about it.



Unless..... you LIKE working on your fuel system??
 
ThrottleJockey,

No. The RASP is a standalone system. Most RASP guys leave some type of electric pump plumbed in to the system so if the RASP belt breaks they can still drive until the belt is replaced.

Godspeed,
Trent
 
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