Air Box To Turbo Mod?

[RIDGERACING]

I have already modded my stock air box. Looking to modify tube from air box - turbo. What is done, How do you remove the sections inside the plastic tube? What about the white plastic piece that is inside before reaching turbo as well,is that in need of removeing? THX

 

[EDavid]

Air Box

What all did you do to your air box for a mod.

 

[ACoffel]

The best mod is to chunk the box and tube and get yourself an AFE or something comparable. You'll wonder why you waited so long.

 

[Scrappy]

For mine I bought a 5" ID exhaust coupler and cut about 3/4" off of both ends (use the original tube to find out how long you need to be). The vanes in the bottom elbow is up in the air as to if it needs to be removed, some say it helps to direct air to the turbo and others see anything in the airflow to be a restriction. My '03 never had the vanes so I really can't answer that question

 

[RDyson]

I used a hacksaw. I removed the blade and slid it into the tube and then reattached it to the hacksaw frame. I cut through each of the four X-baffles and removed them. Then I used a screwdriver and a hammer to break off the circular rings around the inside of the tube. Cleaned it good and put it on. Cheap way to open it up.

Randy

 

[RIDGERACING]

I CUT 4IN. HOLE IN BOTTOM OF AIR BOX AND ADDED 16IN OF DRYER VENT TUBING. SEALED ALL EDGES WITH SILICONE. Looks and works good, just looking to smooth out intake from air box to turbo. THX

 

[CDonaldson]

I picked up a cool blue hose, it goes between the air box and the turbo. I modded the airbox on the bottom side with a cool air kit made by Performance Systems Mfg LLC - 4" dia hole and 4" hose down to just at the bottom of the fender lining. Got them from www.dieselpowerprouducts.com 1-866-379-8685



I know that I could have built the airbox stuff myself (toilet flange and dryer hose) but easier to just buy it and actually less costly as I would have had to drive a couple hundred miles to get the parts.



I have noticed a smoother idle, couple miles to the gal gain towing, quicker throttle response with less pedal both empty and towing. Amazing what happens when the air/fuel ratio is improved. I'm waiting on the Amsoil new drop in filter I have on order, that should be all that I do intake for now.



CD

 

[wcjp]

I picked up a cool blue hose, it goes between the air box and the turbo. I modded the airbox on the bottom side with a cool air kit made by Performance Systems Mfg LLC - 4" dia hole and 4" hose down to just at the bottom of the fender lining. Got them from www.dieselpowerprouducts.com 1-866-379-8685







CD

Did this increase the interior noise? I'm spoiled with the quiet. Did this make an EGT reduction when towing? I notice you mentioned mpg when towing. Did you notice any difference empty? Lastly, have you had the cold start reflash yet?



Thanks

 

[CDonaldson]

My truck is just as quiet if not more quiet in the cab. I can hear a slight whistle from the turbo, little high-pitched sound, not unplesant. Truthfully, it could have been there all along and I just did not notice it. I had about a 75* EGT average reduction when towing hills, cruising on the flat was about 100* reduction. I have only done towing since I put it all together, so my fuel comparison is when I fueled up. I am just about 150 miles into a tank that the truck is running empty/unladen, but I DO think the mileage is increased there too as the gauge is not reading as much fuel used as it had been before. The overhead is telling me my mileage is better also, but I use a calculator after a fill up, don't trust the overhead even though it has agreed with the calculator so far. Too many complaints about the overhead from everyone. I can update you in a couple of days as I have a couple hundred+ mile trip to make on Thursday. I have not had the cold start re-flash. Actually have had NO reflashes or tsb's. I had several incidents (about 9 I think) with a P0191 code referenced to the fuel rail sensor, which the dealer has cleared each time writing them off as a computer glitch. That was one of my main reasons for modding the airbox and changing the intake between the air box and turbo. Since installing the hose and box mod I have not had the code again so far. I have an auto that is turbo'd and had several problems with the fuel rail sensors in it and after getting the air/fuel ratio up to a more acceptable level - problems were solved. I know that comparing a gasser to a diesel is like apples and oranges but the sensors work the same way. Also, less heat soak with the silicone hose by it's design. My truck has started right up every time almost instantly when it's cold below the 59* mark and the coil heater has to come on - the wait to start thing. When its above the 59* mark and no need for the heater in the am it also starts right up. The only starting problem I have been having recently is more of a hot start problem. At 3-4pm when the ambient temp here is about 90 or more and the truck has been in the sun all day - you could fry eggs on the hood. I guess maybe the heat has something to do with it needing to crank a few seconds more. Made in Mexico and can't take the heat!



CD

 

[diesel0904]

on the silencer tube you can pry the top of it off with a flat head screwdriver and slide the baffles out and just silicone it back together.



the turbo inlet baffles i just used soapy water and worked it out.

soapy water worked great because it is a tight squeeze out of the rubber tube.

 

[RIDGERACING]

When you say turbo inlet baffles, is that the clear plastic/white going into the turbo

 

[99Supercab]

When you say turbo inlet baffles, is that the clear plastic/white going into the turbo

Yes, thats what he means. The stock tube is actually 3 pieces, the outer has a top and bottom, and the inner baffles.