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Air Brakes

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Mods for towing

Towing Max GCWR with stock auto & 3.54s?

Has anyone found a way to convert our trucks brakes to air brakes? They would be great for the really heavy loads.

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2001 3500 4x4 H. O. 6 speed 4. 10, SLT, Cab and Chassis, 163" wheelbase western hauler stake bed 3" straight pipe, silencer ring AWOL, boost pyro gauge, K&N, Geno's one touch oil valve, Cobra 29 bombed, Halogen backup lights, cargo bed loading area flood lights, underbed boxes, pacbrake
ready to bomb
Big Red is ready to roll!
 
Mr. Lloyd, I notice the lack of an exhaust brake in your signature... I strongly suggest one to pull any load. You will find yourself using it all the time, loaded or not. . your brakes will live almost forever! From personal experience, I can recommend the US Gear Decelerator; dont have to change valve springs or anything. easy install, and quiet operation.
 
Originally posted by BCFAST:
Mr. Lloyd, I notice the lack of an exhaust brake in your signature... I strongly suggest one to pull any load. You will find yourself using it all the time, loaded or not. . your brakes will live almost forever! From personal experience, I can recommend the US Gear Decelerator; dont have to change valve springs or anything. easy install, and quiet operation.

Pacbrake, last line


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2001 3500 4x4 H. O. 6 speed 4. 10, SLT, Cab and Chassis, 163" wheelbase western hauler stake bed 3" straight pipe, silencer ring AWOL, boost pyro gauge, K&N, Geno's one touch oil valve, Cobra 29 bombed, Halogen backup lights, cargo bed loading area flood lights, underbed boxes, pacbrake
ready to bomb
Big Red is ready to roll!

[This message has been edited by Frank J. Lloyd (edited 01-27-2001). ]
 
oops... sorry! Just read a thread about 'Mike' in Ocala,FL who has air brakes on his Dodge... fabricated and installed in the Northwest Territories (not geographically desireable), but also that it is an experimental thing, not available... check it out!
 
BCFAST,
That exhaust brake that you have does not require changing exhaust springs which is great, but does it require changing the exhaust and does it cost a lot more?
Thanks
Russell
 
What are the benefits of air brakes? Their must be some good reasons for them, as all the OTR trucks use them. How is their performance better than traditional hydraulic systems?
Just curious... .

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Scott Collins
'98 Ram 2500 4x4 12 Valve Cummins. Slightly BOMBed! #ad

Renton, WA

[This message has been edited by Scollins (edited 01-28-2001). ]
 
I believe the main reason OTR trucks use air brakes is that it is much easier to run air lines to the back of a trailer than it would be to run hydraulic lines that distance.

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Bill Lins Wharton, TX 98 2500 QC SLT,12 (the CORRECT # of)valves,NV4500,3. 54 LSD,Manik grille guard,Semi-Psychotty Air,Amsoil everywhere, Reading aluminum utility body and bumper,Optima yellow tops- silencer ring & muffler stolen.
 
I believe the main reason OTR trucks use air brakes is that it is much easier to run air lines to the back of a trailer than it would be to run hydraulic lines that distance.

Yes, plus, if air leaks out of the connection between the tractor and the trailer (or anywhere else in the system), it's a lot easier to replace it with more air than it is to replace leaking brake fluid.
Andy
 
R E; just FYI most of the exhaust brakes use a different elbow (off the turbo). I think there are 2 (maybe more) that go in the downpipe or furthere down the exhaust. You unbolt the exhaust and elbow and just bolt in (then the fun begins) the new elbow with the hardware. The wiring and vac lines and rest are the fun. I use the e-brake and put the switch next to the ashtray on the left. Its handy for operation and not where the manual said to mount it (below the ash tray). I use it a lot when mt and the only thing I do is when downshifting on ice(y) roads is match rpms to keep it disengauged utill in next lower gear (prevents the rear from trying to beat the front to the stop). It took some "extra" work to cutout the dash and make clearance for the switch (easier to reach - just "slide" my hand down my thigh and it there). Have mine wired to the ecm and in the morn need to "tap" the fuel to kick it in the 1st time. Would have liked to (still may) have a switch on the shifter. If I recall, the only spring changes (valves) is on the 12v's, if you use a HIGH back pressure brake. There are some e-brakes that use the lower spring pressure of the 12v's but no experience with them - so no comment. Went with the Jacobs/DC brke cause of cost and warranty issues (got it at the "Sandia Showdown" last year. Install was easy but my switch location took about 2 hrs due to the "extra" cutting/fitting.

Hope you enjoy your ride as much as the rest of us!

SOTSU!!
\\BF//

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"Drifty" y2k SLT L. E. 2500QC/SWB/5sp/3. 54LSD/bed spray/camper/tow/Mag-Hytec/Ball valve oil drain/25. 5k 5th hitch/muffler&resonator STOLEN?/Nerf bars/E-Brake/etc. 42k+ in 16 months!
Not Stroking, BUT, RAMming it Home! SOTSU!! aka \\BF//
 
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