2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Air Conditioner/Dash removal?

[RDBuck]

My evaporator has a leak-02 model. Two shops advised me if I got everything off -dashboard-I could save a ton of money. I would have to do this in their parking lot as I don't know how I could drive the truck with the dash off. My question is how difficult a job and anyone know any "shortcuts".



As an aside I have to say as much as I like the Cummins this 02 has been a bunch of trouble. Two lift pumps,injector pump,auto trans problems,power steering pump,steering box and now total air conditioner failure. It also shows signs of rusting at a rapid rate on the door bottoms,tailgate and fender lips. My 92 Dodge has 187,000 miles and has had none of these problems.

 

[Extreme1]

It's a big job. I recommend you have them discharge the system (unless it already is) and then do the parts swap yourself at home. Then take the finished truck in to have the system charged.



Basically you need to do the following:**



Disconnect batteries.

Remove the knee bolsters (lower dash pads).

Remove airbag and steering wheel.

Drop the steering cloumn down on the seat.

Remove the dash cluster, HVAC controls and stereo head unit.

Disconnect all the custom wiring installs and switches you've added.

Remove the ABS module under the center of the dash.

Remove the glove box.

Leave the two larger bolts at the lower ends of the dash in place but loosen the fasteners. (You'll pivot the dash up on these)

Remove the rest of the fasteners from the dash and pivot it up.

Use a bungy cord to hold it up toward the coat hook on the ceiling.

Remove the ECM from the firewall.

Drain the coolant.

Remove the coolant hoses and disconnect the HVAC lines.

Unbolt the HVAC system and remove it as a unit.

Swap evaporators.

Reverse all you undid.



** Based on what I recall from doing mine 3 1/2 years ago.



Sounds easy, huh?



The good news: The only special tool you'll need is a set of the line release collars, about $10 at the auto parts chain stores. Get new o-rings for the lines you disconnected too. (Bring the old ones in to be sure to get the right ones)



If you don't have one already, this is a good excuse to buy a Factory Service Manual.



Are you sure it's the evap and not a fitting? Did one of them do a leak test with die?

 

[JDinterman]

I just had mine done at the dealer and it was 600. 00 out the door!

 

[RDBuck]

Thanks for the replies. The dye is leaking out the drain tube that comes thru the firewall into the engine compartment. Whether it is a fitting in there or the evaporator itself is not known at this point. The shop drained the system and vacuum tested- said they did not detect a leak- then recharged and added dye. It did not last a day before it was not working. I don't know how they could miss a leak that big but that is the situation $160 later.

 

[Walt-L]

Here's my old step by step post.

Good Luck https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=134690

 

[RDBuck]

You guys are a great help! A few more questions. Is there a better after-market evaporator than stock? Is there an 'O' ring kit for this job? I'd like to have everything I need on hand before I start. Thanks again for all the help, I don't feel so bad about this situation now.

 

[BOstiguy]

RDBuck,

you mentioned the rusting problem. Seeing that your truck is and 02' I hope you have under 100,000 mi. The dealer will repair your rusting under the warranty for perforation.

I had it done on my old 99' a couple of years ago. The drivers door was rusting and they replaced the whole door for me at no cost to me.



Hope this helps... .



The warranty for my truck (01') is 5 yr/ 100,000 mi.

 

[Joe Mc]

RD - I'd do the job myself. You are basically doing all the hard work for them by removing the dash. Are they going to put it back together for you? Have you ever put something back together that someone else took apart . . . ? I'm sure they would overlook something upon installation because they didn't take it apart and if there was a problem afterwards that would be their out. The only tools you are missing to complete the job arel the line relaease tool (mentioned before @ $10), a vacuum pump and refrigeration gauge set. You've already given them $160 to determine there's a leak and that stinks. But, somethimes a leak down test (vacuum on system and observe the gauge for a period of time) doesn't work, the vacuum can actually compress/seal the leak, i. e. only leaks under pressure. Maybe one of our fine TRD members or someone locally to you could help out with the vacuum pump and gauge set. Good luck.

 

[painekiller]

its really not that hard. my brother in law and i did mine 2 days ago. it took us 4 hrs. we didnt take the dash out all the way,you can pull it back far enough and hold it back with a bungee cord to slide the heater/AC box out of the truck.



while you're in there replace the heater core too since if that goes bad after you do the evap. core you will have to remove it all again.

 

[DieselDoghouse]

Ditto Joe McC - you done it FOR them by pulling the dash. Removing the heatbox, evaporator and replacing are the easier steps. As to the leak - sounds like mine last year - leaves and needles had been drawn in and sedimented 1 1/2 inches up the evaporator - most of our trucks don't have inlet filters. Your leak is somewhere under the ooze. You'll pay for that new evaporator but it should come with its new o-rings. I'd replace the accumulator and maybe the liquid line (with the orifice tube) at the same time and save a later hassle. You can buy the set of garter-spring tools for the couplings for short money at auto stores. Invest a day - save a week's pay. When you're done… well mine now gives a 55° temp. drop (not fish store - used a digital gauge last heat wave)!!

Good luck and remember you'll get lots of help from everybody here!!

 

[RDBuck]

I'll take the advice given here and change it out in my own driveway. I'm sure the system is empty as the compressor won't cycle more than a second and it blows hot air. The leak was very visible to the naked eye. I guess I'll have to pay another $160 to have it vacuumed,dried and recharged after I'm done.

 

[Joe Mc]

There's still something in the system - see if you can purge by the low side (big line to compressor) charge port. Be aware that compressor oil may be present in the old evap - catch as much as you can in a metered cup (cc's or ounce fine) and then install the same amount of new refrigerant (134a - oil - not sure if special or not) in the new evap once installed - can pour it in the line. Also, so as not to lock too much moisture in the system give it a bath of fresh 134a - just feed in gas (can up) until it won't take anymore - of course once it's all together, and leave compressor clutch un plugged so it doesn't cycle. Then the AC Tech will have a dryer system to start out with and be more apt to get a better vaccum before installing complete charge. Let me know how you make out with the dash - mine is more than likely needing a new evap too. . .