Air Conditioning problem

[BarlowCummins]

Thanks guys, I'm going to stop by wal-mart and get a can soon. I have to hear my wife complain almost everyday about her side not being as cold as mine. :-laf

 

[BGlidewell]

the temptation will be to fill it to the upper limit of the range. Avoid that. Sometimes when charging with the bottle the gauge will indicate 40 but later, when you check it, the reading will be 45 which would be too high. In this situation the cooling would be back to what you saw with to little pressure and the system is being stressed.

 

[steamboatinn]

I have a 2006 5. 9. How many ounces of refrigerant does the A/C system hold? Thanks

 

[HHhuntitall]

Underhood specification label, located on the radiator support above the condensor, next to the hood latch, usually.

 

[Miner49er]

Would like to thank you all for your input. Since the dealer refilled the refrigerant the A/C has been back to normal. ( even with the temp over 100 degrees a couple of days ). TDR is "too cool... "

 

[bigblock_doc]

My wife is always cold... So this problem is not a problem with me.

Super cold my side, a little warmer on her side. Also bought her a

12 volt blanket. That keeps her happy.

 

[JMarketos]

acknowledge the issue was solved #25 above.
x2 #17. also good reading on the heater-treater website. They seem to do a good job of explaining the what / how / why. (I'm repeating here what I think I read on the heater-treater site, sorry if I don't get it all 100%... . ) Apparently the Dodge setup is a bit "unique" (being kind... ). There are two things that can cause warm air on passenger side.
[1] Due to the (relatively unique) way the evaporator coil is mounted in the heater box, low freon charge can result in warm passenger side. (Heater treater site explains that in more detail. )
[2] Due to the way Dodge approached the design for offering the option of dual zone climate control (whether your truck actually has DZ or not... . ), and owing to the susceptibility of diverter door axle breakage in these trucks, a certain blend door defect can result in the passenger side temperature not tracking the setting. Again, that's whether the truck has dual zone or not.

 

[GCroyle]

Guys,



Add me to the list of AC investigators. AC performance drops at stop and go, markedly. Pass side vent runs ~10 deg warmer, I second reading the info at HeaterTreater well worth the reading, as posted explains differential at vents. I have pretty good AC at highway speeds.



Here is my newest observation, Airflow over the condenser.



Look at your truck from the front, grill/condenser/CAC/3" or so gap/radiator/fan shroud/fan. Now examine the airflow across this series of heat exhangers, notice the 3" gap? Does it make sense that air is being pulled in at the gaps and at low speed or idle air is not hardly being pulled across the condenser effectively, it is being bypassed at the 3" gap on about 4 sides.



I made my own decision to try to force the air across the condenser and CAC by blocking the gap at the top and on both sides. I have been monitoring engine temp, intake air temp, intake manifold temp and EGT, no heavy hauling but high temps and very high humidity. No anomalies observed, in fact might be seeing quicker EGT drop when you slow down than before. I have seen more condensate drip, frost on one of the aluminum lines, hood open shooting the condenser with IR temp gun = reduction in temp and more stable.



Can anyone justify the "3" air leak" as being ideal or explain its contribution. If you really want to see a large air gap, look at this from under the truck.



More to follow, I'm also trying to learn about the EVF Electronic Viscous Fan (did I just make that up, doubt it) to review air flow, inconlusive, a strobe tach sure would help me.

 

[FDrake]

My truck stopped switching between the defrost/foot/front vents. I was in Goodyear this morning and they tell me 4. 9hrs to remove the dash a@$100/hr and then they can see which actuator is dead. The A/C puts out a LOT of cold air to the driver and it takes w while to cool the passenger side. I am not sure that over $500 is a smart way to go since I am usually alone in the truck. Any one have any hints?
Frank

 

[GCroyle]

Frank,



Whole heartedly suggest that you look at HeaterTreater Auto replacement part, blend door fix, Heat, AC replacement parts spend some time not $$ looking at the videos and read his explanation before making a final decision. His info helped me understand my system better.

 

[Deleted member 995608]

Frank,



Whole heartedly suggest that you look at HeaterTreater Auto replacement part, blend door fix, Heat, AC replacement parts spend some time not $$ looking at the videos and read his explanation before making a final decision. His info helped me understand my system better.

Agreed. I pulled the dash and replaced all the doors with Heater Treater components this May. A big job but easily doable by the average garage mechanic.



HVAC system works better than when my truck was new.

 

[GCroyle]

JHawes,



Glad yours is working well. His explanations helped me alot.



TDR,



I really curious if any of you see the 3" air gap between the radiator and CAC as a source for the fan to pull in air (in particular at low speed or stationary) bypassing the CAC and condensor, in particular not cooling the condensor effectively. I'm expirementing with mine by significantly reducing the oppourtunity for outside air to be pulled in bypassing the CAC and condensor, so far so good and improvement at stop and go is noticable. I'll be towing a bit later and have a loaded towing report later.



Gary

 

[FDrake]

The time given in the "book" to remove JUST the dash to get to the blower and actuators is 4. 9 hours. Does it REALLY take that long. In the heat we have here in Las Vegas I am not anxious to spend 5 hours tearing apart a dash. And then another 5 hours putting it together again after whatever time it takes to make the fixes it may need
Frank

 

[Nyoest]

The time given in the "book" to remove JUST the dash to get to the blower and actuators is 4. 9 hours. Does it REALLY take that long. In the heat we have here in Las Vegas I am not anxious to spend 5 hours tearing apart a dash. And then another 5 hours putting it together again after whatever time it takes to make the fixes it may need
Frank

Yes. And you won't do it that fast your first time unless your on andrettis pit crew. Do yourself a favor and replace the heater core while you are there. If you don't I garunteee it will be upset by the lack of attention and start leaking in short order.

You can fill ac systems by pressure just to get by but it is best to have it reclaimed and the proper amount installed along with some dye. A decent shop shouldn't charge over a half hour labor plus materials to do this. I have seen some vehicles that while an idle they were about 30-40 psi but once the air flow increased, such as driving down the road ,the pressure would drop low enough that the low pressure switch would shut the ac clutch down. The dye is a god send later on if you have a leak.

 

[FDrake]

I don't need to add any refrigerant to the system. The system checks good and cools nicely. It the actuator door that wont redirect air from the front vent to the defrost or floor. Since I am usually alone int he truck, I am not sure it is worth the over $500 to fix them.
Frank

 

[Crunch]

My truck stopped switching between the defrost/foot/front vents. I was in Goodyear this morning and they tell me 4. 9hrs to remove the dash a@$100/hr and then they can see which actuator is dead. The A/C puts out a LOT of cold air to the driver and it takes w while to cool the passenger side. I am not sure that over $500 is a smart way to go since I am usually alone in the truck. Any one have any hints?

Frank

You should definitely check out the Heater Treater web site. If the problem is that the air only comes out the front vents and won't switch to the defrost/floor side it is most likely Mode Door 1. Heater Treater says that's usually the first door to go. If it switches from the front vents to the defrost/floor vents, but won't switch between defrost and floor it is Mode Door 2. That's the hardest door to replace. Heater Treater says that a 70 year old woman was able to do the job on one of the doors, so it can't be all that difficult. When you visit their site, be sure and watch all the videos to see how they remove the dash. I won't swear to it, but I believe that for Mode Door 1 all you need to do is remove the center part of the dash panel with the HVAC controls. If I remember correctly, you only have to remove the screw behind the hat hook/litter bag hook/purse hook and the panel hinges off. But if it turns out that it is that time consuming, I suggest you find a friend with an air conditioned garage, buy a case of beer and make a day of it. Drink one six pack with your friend while you do the repair, and the other three after you get your truck back in your own driveway.

 

[FDrake]

I comes ONLY out of the front vents and will not go to defrost or floor. I guess MODE 1 is the bad guy then. Thank you for that info. I can do that change if I get the stuff from Heater Treater.

I can first check to see if a wire disconnected or something before I buy a switch or actuator I may not need.
Frank

 

[Crunch]

I can first check to see if a wire disconnected or something before I buy a switch or actuator I may not need.

Frank

I'd bet money that it ain't a switch, wire or actuator. It's the door itself, or the part that the actuator moves that is broke.

 

[FDrake]

Is there an easy fix for that if it is that?
Frank

 

[Crunch]

Is there an easy fix for that if it is that?

Frank

Get the right door from Heater Treater and install it is the cheapest fix. As for easy, I've been putting it off until fall or winter rolls around. I think you only have to remove the center panel of the dash with the HVAC controls to get to it, but I'm not sure what it involved with the fix. You need to watch the 20 minutes or so of video at their site to get the general idea on what's involved. From what I saw it appears that you will need to use a Dremel tool to cut a chunk out of the plenum box where the door is attached and install the new door, then simply hook up the actuator arm and reassemble the dash. Sounds easy enough, but I haven't tried it yet. You might call them and ask them what is involved and problems people have reported to them when they did it.