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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Air dog routing

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) California 12V difference?

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Replacing block heater

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PatD

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Do you think it is advisable to route the "to the engine" fuel from my airdog 100 to the fuel filter housing with no element or straight to the injection pump. I would be using the factory lines from the filter housing to the pump. I'm thinking I would benefit from the fuel heater and I would not have to relocate my fuel pressure gauge which is tied into the banjo bolt on the injection pump. Thanks for your response from people whom have tried it both ways.
 
I routed mine directly from the AD to my VP. Are you concerned with not enough filtration or just the fuel heater? The stock AD filters are 2 micron. Most people bypass the stock housing and either delete it or leave it. Mines still in place.
 
The stock AD filters are 2 micron.



The stock AD filters are 2 um nominal not absolute. The OE filter and water seperator is better than any of the stock filters on the FASS or AD. Running filters at the AD and the OE filter provides multi-pass filtration which is much better.



Under normal use, 3/4 of the fuel delivered to the IP gets returned to the tank anyway. Unless one is trying to make huge power, fuel flow thru the OE cannister is usually not a problem. The restriction at the IP is far more than the OE filter ever makes so the general setup uses larger banjo bolts or replace the fittings with AN and a rubber line.



Retaining the OE housing with the fuel heater makes sense in all but a few radical situations.
 
The stock AD filters are 2 um nominal not absolute. The OE filter and water seperator is better than any of the stock filters on the FASS or AD. Running filters at the AD and the OE filter provides multi-pass filtration which is much better.



Under normal use, 3/4 of the fuel delivered to the IP gets returned to the tank anyway. Unless one is trying to make huge power, fuel flow thru the OE cannister is usually not a problem. The restriction at the IP is far more than the OE filter ever makes so the general setup uses larger banjo bolts or replace the fittings with AN and a rubber line.



Retaining the OE housing with the fuel heater makes sense in all but a few radical situations.





That may have been the case with AD when they first came out, but I spoke with the guys that run the place and they told me they have since redesigned the filters and are in fact better filtering that the OEM canister ones. They told me I am wasting my time running it through the OEM canister because the AD filters are that good. I thought I even remember them telling me the new ones are 2 UM absolute, but I could be entirely wrong. Isn't the standard Fleetguard filter for the canister 10 micron? Maybe I am misunderstanding things but I have read numerous other places the AD filters provide better filtration.
 
I think there are better filters available. Not sure they come as standard. You would have to get the number and cross check it against industry ratings to make sure.



I don't think the water seperation is as good as the OE fleetguard though. My understanding is that is a Donaldson that won't fit the housing.



The multi-pass filtration seems to be best option available with a 2 um absolute as the final filter. The flow is way more than adequate thru the OE housing and the fuel heater has its benefits to get the diesel into its best combustion temp range.



If the traget is the most bang for the least buck don't ignore the OE housing and its contributions. There are new filters being made for both AD and FASS that are better so its quite likely a better one is available. Depends on how simplistic or effective one wants to be.
 
I ran my AD right back through the OEM canister and have no issues. I was like you in thinking that the heater would help but I also didn't want to risk any CEL by disconnecting it all together. I change filters about once a year just because and never have issues with loss of pressure.
 
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