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Air Pressure

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What's the proper Air Pressure on these 17 inch Michelins Tires?? Long Bed unloaded??? How Long do we leave the Break in Oil in the truck? What is recomended, on the way we should Break in the Engine ???? Anythig Else I need to to Know ?? This is my First New Diesel??? Tks Guy's
 
I got a pamphlet with my truck that listed all the trucks, tire sizes and reconmended air presure based on use. For unloaded 3500 SRW they reconmend 50 in the fron and 40 in the back, that is what I have been running in mine, so far so good.
 
I have the same tires you do and I run 45 front and 40 rear unloaded. They seem to ride and wear best for me at this pressure. I change my oil every 5k.
 
Radar Doc,



Do you have 17" rims on your '99 or do you have an '03 or '04? No matter. I run 55 lbs both front and rear (unlaoded) - too lazy to crank up the compressor every time I rotate. I did my first oil change at 2500, but then all my oil changes are around 2500 miles - I love clean oil. Don't baby the Cummins to break it in - just drive it like you would if it had 50,000 miles on it. Since this is your first Cummins the one thing you need to know, and you will find out on your own, you have the best on the road.



Dave Hess
 
03 INFO.

Thanks Dave and all, I have a 99 right now. It is sold if they come up with the money. I'm suppose to pick up a 03 next week. We will tour the Missouri and arkansas Hills in the new 03 and i new they had the 17 in wheels ,so i wanted the air pressure? Anyother info you guy's can suggest would be appreciated. tks Bill
 
Re: Air Pressure = 80psi

Originally posted by radar doctor

What's the proper Air Pressure on these 17 inch Michelins Tires??



My truck came with Michelin LTX A/S tires and they have 80psi stamped on them for a cold tire pressure. I'm running them at 80psi. I'm not sure where the lower tire pressure values are coming from. If I only had 50psi in my tires they would look like they were low.
 
From '89 to '03 I drove a Chev 4-dr crewcab LWB DRW gas auto trans w/Mitchell 28% OD with 9. 10 X 16. 5 Bridgestone radials. I tried to keep 65 to 70 psi in the front and 55 psi in the rear. If I went down to 60 psi in the front gas mileage suffered. With DRW ride suffered if the four rear tires were over 55 psi each, unless I had a substantial load, in which case I would inflate the rears to 65. The first two sets of 6 tires got about 70,000 miles. The side walls gave out before the tread (truck always parked outside, sunny desert climate). The third set has about 48,000 and still looks good.



When I picked up my '03 Dodge HO QC LWB SRW 48RE in Oklahoma on July 29th, I asked about break-in, and the service manager replied "Don't use the cruise control for the first 300 miles, and try to drive at different speeds for the first few days. "



I drove the truck 2700 miles and stored it for 90 days (I pick it up in 10 days). I talked with two Dodge service depts, sent an e-mail to the Dodge customer service center, and telephoned the Cummins customer service line for advice. Consensus: Change the oil and filter before storing the truck (which I did). On starting the truck again after 90 days, drive it for 50 miles or so, then change oil, oil filter and fuel filter (I also added Cummins diesel additive to the fuel tank when I parked it).



Hope some of this is of use.
 
From '89 to '03 I drove a Chev 4-dr crewcab LWB DRW gas auto trans w/Mitchell 28% OD with 9. 10 X 16. 5 Bridgestone radials. I tried to keep 65 to 70 psi in the front and 55 psi in the rear. If I went down to 60 psi in the front gas mileage suffered. With DRW ride suffered if the four rear tires were over 55 psi each, unless I had a substantial load, in which case I would inflate the rears to 65. The first two sets of 6 tires got about 70,000 miles. The side walls gave out before the tread (truck always parked outside, sunny desert climate). The third set has about 48,000 and still looks good.



When I picked up my '03 Dodge HO QC LWB SRW 48RE in Oklahoma on July 29th, I asked about break-in, and the service manager replied "Don't use the cruise control for the first 300 miles, and try to drive at different speeds for the first few days. "



I drove the truck 2700 miles and stored it for 90 days (I pick it up in 10 days). I talked with two Dodge service depts, sent an e-mail to the Dodge customer service center, and telephoned the Cummins customer service line for advice. Consensus: Change the oil and filter before storing the truck (which I did). On starting the truck again after 90 days, drive it for 50 miles or so, then change oil, oil filter and fuel filter (I also added Cummins diesel additive to the fuel tank when I parked it).



Hope some of this is of use.
 
Originally posted by Bertram65

I got a pamphlet with my truck that listed all the trucks, tire sizes and reconmended air presure based on use. For unloaded 3500 SRW they reconmend 50 in the fron and 40 in the back, that is what I have been running in mine, so far so good.
DITTO! Same air pressures I use. :D and change oil at 5000, rotate tire's at 5000, and change fuel filter at 10,000.
 
Re: Re: Air Pressure = 80psi

Originally posted by Crunch

My truck came with Michelin LTX A/S tires and they have 80psi stamped on them for a cold tire pressure. I'm running them at 80psi. I'm not sure where the lower tire pressure values are coming from. If I only had 50psi in my tires they would look like they were low.



May want to consider reading the tire supplement, Mr. Crunch. There's info regarding "light" and "full" load pressures. If you're not doing any hauling and trailer towing, they're very over-inflated... a harsh ride and premature wearing out of the center part of the tire will be the result. The psi ratings on the sidewall only state the maximum carrying capacity per tire at maximum psi. The 50 psi front / 40 psi rear pressures are correct for a "light" load truck. If you've driven over 3 or 4 miles to check the air pressure, allow for 3 to 5 psi for the expansion of the air pressure due to the tires heating up some.
 
On air pressure I run 65psi in the fronts, and 55psi in the rears. For the first (break-in) oil change, I go 800-1000 miles. After that it's what ever your scheduled is, Mine is oil change once a year, and new filter every 1500 miles and top off. I do not drive my truck much, but I follow the same routine with all the others, except they get the oil changed twice a year.
 
more info on 03

thanks for the tire pressure oil change etc. Can anyone think of any problems you might have had on the 03, that i could check for before i leave the dealer? Tks Bill
 
I agree with Crunch, I too run my tires at 80 lbs. My first set went 68,000+ miles and could have gone 80,000 miles. I have them in the barn as extra spares. The tires on the duallys are hard to find so I replaced them early. Yes, they are a little rough this way, but I do tow heavy. The load I had today was over 28,000 lbs. total vehicle wt. I tow like that nearly every day. I have always run what is on the sidewall, not in the brochures.

As far as oil changes, I changed three times up to 18,000 miles, switched over to the "A" brand and have not changed oil since. I now have over 80,000 miles on my truck and the oil analysis say the oil is good to go. My last truck went 419,000+miles like this, so it works for me. These engines are as close to bullet proof as you can get, so if you half way take care of them they will last longer than the truck bodies and assemblies will. By the way, my truck is barely 8 month old. (Bought Feb. 14)
 
Delivery checklist

YES!! GO HERE (!) for the 2002 delivery checklist:



http://www.dodgeram.org/buying_info/Inspect.htm



Add these items for 2003:



Test function of remote ALL keyless/alarm buttons at distance of 80 feet from truck;



Check operation of rear cargo storage and folding load floor in Quad-Cab models;



Check operation of adjustable pedals over full range of travel;



With key off, press accelerator pedal slightly (about 1/4" down but make sure pedal did not simply pivot on the arm), then turn the key "on" and start the engine. Now release the accel pedal, put the truck in gear, and make sure the engine responds to the accel pedal.



There have been software problems in the ECM that completely lock out throttle control if the idle position switch is not closed when the engine is started. A TSB has been issued to address the problem for '03 models by relfashing the ECM. This sort of problem with the idle position switch has been around in one form or another since the release of the 24-valve engine in 1998. Before you take it home, use the test above to make sure your new truck will not leave you at the side of the road with an engine that will only idle.



"I have not revised the checklist because it still works for the 2003 models. For the 2003s, I added the above. " Dave

Fritz dfritz@vt. edu (7-16-03)



Someone much more computer literate than I needs to post this check list and the 2003 update in some CONSPICUOUS place, so all those asking for info regarding 2003 model delivery checkoff items can more easily find the checklist.



JW Chessell
 
This tire pressure deal sounds like the same kind of topic as oil! I have run Goodrich TA's for at least the last 500,000 kms. on three different 2500 CTD'S without any problems at all and I run 35 pounds in the front and back without a load. If I carry a 4 wheeler or other loads for a longer trip the most I increase the pressure is 5 pounds. I can't imagine how rough the ride must be at 80 psi. Now I have to admit that a 700 or 800 pound load in the box isn't that heavy , and if I had to carry more ,say 1500 pounds then I would up the pressure to 45 or 50 max. Am I the only one doing this. I find that hard to accept. :eek: :confused: :cool:
 
I run 80# front and rear, which is maximum air. I run max air in every vehicle I own.



I am a retired trooper and we always ran max air in all our tires due to better handling, performance and wear all the way around.



Wanna run less? Remember the Firestone/Explorer fiasco?



Max air gives you much more control of your vehicle, you get no tire roll



You will sacrifice a bit of ride for it, but I would rather sacrifice ride than safety



My 2 or 3 cents :)



Hunter1
 
I'm with Hunter!! Try to rotate every 25-30k . POS RTS's on my '97 went 92k before one seperated, still had plenty of tread left too! :( Want something that rides like a Caddy ,buy one of those!!:p
 
Originally posted by MMeier

I'm with Hunter!! Try to rotate every 25-30k . POS RTS's on my '97 went 92k before one seperated, still had plenty of tread left too! :( Want something that rides like a Caddy ,buy one of those!!:p



I guess it depends on where you drive most and whether your loaded. A lot of my driving is off highway on rough gravel roads so I 'll take the ride improvement any day let alone the reduced wear on my suspension components. I can see that it would better to run higher pressures on highway especially if towing or carrying a good sized load from all the replies above but lower pressures are only a problem if you build too much heat in your tires. Logging Trucks out west run "Central Tire Inflation" ( computer controlled pressures on the go) and they drop right down to 42 psi. , running empty on highway at 100 kph. ;) Any way I don't think a Caddy will follow me on the roads I drive so I'll keep on with the CTD smooth riding edition. ;) :)
 
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